When replacing the front struts should I replace the strut mounts? Several posts have suggested that a rental spring compressor will not be able to compress the spring the required 3". Has anyone been able to compress these springs with hand tools? Can the rear shocks be cut off in the event the bolts are seized ( what type hacksaw blade would work best?)

What should I expect to pay a shop to compress the springs and replace the struts ( assuming I have removed the strut assembly myself).................. Can anyone direct me to source for Bilstein or KB struts.
My first post
DuraAce

 

go to autozone to and rent a spring compressor. i used impact for faster pace but ive use hand tools in the past, not a problem.

rear shocks do not required to cut off of anykind. use a monkey wrench to hold the shock cover and pb-blast the bolt. wait for 15min and w/ a deep 14mm socket pop it open.

might want to get something else than tokico trek master, its just as bouncy as my stocks.

 

First of all welcome.

No, I doubt the strut mounts are bad yet (they rearely need replacing).

You can change front struts with a rental spring compressor, but there is a heck of alot of force involved and it can be very dangerous to do (not to mention time consuming and your arms will hurt for a day or two after ). Also if you use a manual compressor, don't use an impact gun (air ratchet is ok) on it because you can snap the compressors main screw and send things flying in all directions (remember there's about 1500-2000lbs of force in a compressed spring). If you take it to a shop and have them use a wall mounted compressor it is usually about $20-40 for the pair. I've done it both ways, but having a shop do it for you is much safer and a huge time saver!

Rear shocks are very easy to do if you just cut the stud right at the rubber bushing (just cut right through the center of the rubber bushing and through the stud both at the same time). Again if you don't have one, rent a sawzall with a long metal cutting blade. It would take forever to cut by hand with a hacksaw because the quarters are quite cramped back there.

Ebay has some pretty good prices on a set of bils but then so does http://www.shox.com/

 

i had a shop do my front struts. too much potential for injury.

 

I'll second the wall mounted spring compressor. The Toyota springs are much thicker than others I've done. My spring compressor was bowing when I did mine. Won't do that again!

 

Do you really just cut the old bolt off the rear shock?

 

Yeah - I also tried to compress the tundra springs with a spring compressor myself and the bolts started to bow... I said forget that and took it straight to a shop to have the struts assembled there.

Now I have been curious about trying to use two sets of spring compressors... I would feel much safer doing that by distributing the load on the compressors.

 

I did my struts and shocks at the same time. the previous owner went 150k on stock suspension hehe, anyway i used all hand tools . I didnt have to cut anything , i just Lubricated all the bolts that were involved . Also i read somewhere on here they had to get an alignment done after installing front struts ... but when i looked at mine ( 96 tacoma 3rz)You can get to the bottom most bolts without removing the tie rod so i didnt have to do an alignment at all . I Did use a cheap spring compressor and they arnt lying when they say the toyota springs used on these things are too thick to use the hand compressor on. It bowed mine which is totally dangerous but i finished anyway since i was so far into it . Suggest either getting a heavy duty spring compressor or taking them off and taking them to a garage to do that part for ya. Hope my insight has helped you some , and good luck =)

Ps i did re use my old strut mounts , they were in good shape still .

Brutal

 

If your rears are stock, and seized with rust--all you need is to get a deep socket on the top mount 14mm I think) and twist the steel boot with a pair of big ole Channelocks. It snaps right in two at the nut. (My intent was to unscrew it, but breaking off was actually a superior result---done in 5 seconds). Easier than the Sawzall, which was Plan B. Even easier than unbolting it.This won't work on shocks without a steel boot or with a beefier piston rod/mount, but those stockers are butter.

I tried a pair of NAPA compressors on the front. As careful as I was to keep it balanced, they kept shifting every time I got close. It was so hairy I gave up and paid to have it done on a wall machine. I had bent one of them on the last try anyway.

 

I 'rented' a pair of compressors from autozone and they were pretty beefy. I did see them bow slightly, but not so much it worried me. It took about 5 hours to get the front shocks done, but that was partly cause Im cautious and dumb.

I misunderstood the earlier post about cutting the rear shocks at the bolt, thinking he meant to cut off at the lower mount bolt. Once I looked at everything it was obvious he meant the upper mounting point and rod. Its all how you word things.....I did have to cut off the rear shocks at the very top, just below the mounting point. I couldnt get a deep socket and wrench tool up in there and keep it there, all while turning the shock. Not enough hands. I managed to get a 4" angle grinder up in there, while bending the shock out of the way (detached from the bottom mount) to give access to the upper-most point along the shock piston rod. Does that make sense? I tried a sawzall, but the bimetal blades kept dulling before making much progress. I never have had any luck cutting metal things with sawzalls....

another repair done. the truck went 170k on factory shocks. Noticeable difference in ride quality now. I also had a buddy who gave me his 4 coil springs from same year/model 4rnr at around 60k, from his lift conversion. So, now I have younger coil springs also! She's a happy truck! Ass in the air like she has heels on!!

 

You could always do what I did, and wait until the rusted out stock rear shock breaks in half at the upper mounting rod. lol Saved me a ton of work, apparently.

 

I just replaced the rear springs and shocks. The top nut on one shock was cross threaded on but like a previous poster said big ole channellocks saved the day. Oh and be generous with the liquid wrench a few times before you go after anything!

 

I Know this is an old thread, but i could not find anything on broken rear strut mounts. meaning the top mount of the strut that attcahes to the frame. i am wondering if there are any after market plates or custom companies out there that specialize in toyota suspension systems

any info would be greatly apreciated. I just got a small suitcase wedler, lincoln 80amp 120V mig wire fed, says i can weld up to 18G sheet metal or 1/8 inch steel.... im wondering if i should fabricate my out plate?

Thanks again!

~Jason

 

If it is that rusted that the frame attachments have rusted off you will have a hard time finding good metal to weld to on that small tube frame and you will probably want to lift the body off to even attempt it, if you are planning to switch to a single stud shock mount that might work but you should start looking for a new rig.