Hey everyone. I've been able to gain some valuable info from this site (as well as several laughs) but am coming up short in finding a way to remove the nut on the upper part of the rear shock.

The threaded stem is most likely rusted very well and is currently soaking in wd-40. My concern is not being square on the nut because of the odd angle and arm contortion one must achieve to reach the nut. Has any one found a good position under the truck or tools to get proper leverage? For fear of rounding the nut off, I'm just short of boaring a hole through the floor to get to it.

Side notes: I've one shock off already. The stem rusted out in the upper hole somehow. I've never seen anything like it. Also, I purchased the Bilsteins as replacements but they don't seem to have the same upper mount hardware as stock... or is there not suppose to be anything inside that big hole except the stem of the shock absorber sandwhiched between the rubber pieces and the steel washers?

Any help (links, pics, tech, etc.) is much appreciated.

(1998 4Runner SR5)

 

The rubber bushings should be shouldered & will fit in the hole when sandwiched between the metal washers unless you have this problem: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/o...te-you-159970/

Some people just cut the shock shaft to remove it.

Good luck.

 

Yes... get your sawzall or mini grinder out, and make quick work of the shaft on that shock. I don't even take a wrench out anymore when it's time to remove rear shocks on my 4Runner.

There's nothing else that goes in that hole. The rubber bushings hold the shock shaft in place. It is possible that the holes have worn / rusted bigger over the years. If that's the case, and it's really bad, consider getting that repaired before mounting the new shocks.

 

Thanks for that SoCalPaul. The link you provided is something I came across recently and an example of another thing I would like to avoid.

Yes, one of the rubber pieces is shouldered, slightly, and the assembly instructions that came with the Bilsteins show it being placed in the lower part of the sandwich upon assembly. I am still concerned that it is the only thing that fits in this hole and would like some additional reassurance.

Cutting the shock shaft might be the way to go then. Anyone know the hardness of it? Are we talking hacksaw or cutting torch?

Anyone with any additional info is encouraged to reply.

 

No to hacksaw... no to cutting torch... yes to sawzall or mini-grinder.

 

Thanks GSGALLANT. I must have been responding to SoCal when you submitted. Ok then, the Sawzall with demolition blade is coming out!

And the info on the rubber bushings is much appreciated as well. I know there is an amount of articulation back there, just want to avoid the obrounded hole and future issues if possible. Though, the brackets fabed up by some of the guys look like the way to go. If only I wasn't doing this in the winter.

More opinions are welcome, I'm not headed out to do the work for another hour or so.

 

Followup:

Getting a Sawzall into a position to cut the shocks proves quite difficult. It may be wise to not only remove the rear tires but also the rear springs and possibly the spare to create enough room to maneuver safely.

I successfully cut the shock. However, my placement of the Sawzall blade, due to the confined space and obscure angle, was slightly lower than necessary for total removal. If this happens, be prepared for smoke, a hissing noise and oil flowing from the cutting location. A cutting wheel or mini grinder, as indicated above, was used to finish the cutting of the shock and proved the best method.

Installation of the Bilsteins is straight forward. The compression of the rubber bushings on the top portion of the shock is dramatic. I was unable to get to the specified 19 ft. lbs. of torque without the shock's shaft turning. But the amount of compression at the bushings as well as the amount of physical force needed to achieve that compression is, in my view, probably adequate. Given the absolutely horrible design of the upper mount location, I'm unsure how one might acruately torque this locknut anyway. Suffice to say, it will be monitored.

After diving with the new shocks I can say that I am happy with the Bilsteins. Some claim they provide a stiff or harsh ride. I'm inclined to call the ride "firm". I like to feel some of the road (or lack of road, depending on the case) underneath me and appreciate vehicle feedback.

Thanks again for the assistance!

 

Oil?!? Did you cut the body of the shock? We meant cut the shaft... right up high at the bushings. Anyways, it's good that you got it out.

 

Yeah, it was the shaft, not the body. There is a small duct that runs almost all the way up the shaft and terminates just before the lower bushing, washer, and threaded portion (about .125 inch). I was a bit suprised to find it up that high too.

 

Weird... so they weren't the original shocks that you were replacing, then...

 

if you do get it off, then when you put the new shock on put plenty of grease on the threads, that way if you ever have to take it back off hopefully it will come off easier

 

GS: I think they were the original shocks. There wasn't any marking on them to signify an aftermarket brand and they were stamped as made in Japan. They were well past due for replacement, by at least several years. No rebound whatsoever.

Artistang: good idea. I was thinking of some kind of rubber boot, kind of like a vacuum tube block-off piece, to cover the threaded area down to the locknut. But then again- given the location of these things, cutting them might still be the best option. I'll certainly consider making the bracket demonstrated in SoCalPaul's link if I ever have to deal with it again.

 

I may be wrong on this, but, have you tried just using a nut cracker. you can rent small enough one that will fit in that location and all you do is tighten the nut on the cutter and it cracks(cuts) the troubled nut in two.

 

stepside trd: I don't know, that might work. I am not familiar with that tool. If it would fit in that location, it might be another way to go about it.

 

I'm glad I came across this thread. I used the sawzall method to remove the rear shocks. Thanks to all who posted that method.

 

I have a 2" body lift and there is just enough room to get a grinder in there and go through the wheel well. Took longer to get the grinder out and plug it in than it did to reach through the gap and cut the stems off.

 

Ok, now after searching and reading a lot I am confused and have some questions about this procedure:

After sawing off the shaft of the shock how did you get the rest out?
Did you replace your springs when you replaced your shocks?
How hard is it to replace the springs?

Thanks in advance

 

what i did was to get the old shock off was to spin the top of the old shock boot while holding a wrench on the nut on the very. Getting the Bils on blows because you cant spin the shock like before. the best way i found was to jam a alan wrench against the frame and then get a wrench on the nut and tighten it down. For the rear driver side i had to drop the spare tire and reach back through the car to get to it. Have Fun...

 

there is a nipple on the top of the shock where the top nut is rusted on. you need to cut below the nut. Then remove the bolt that holds the bottom of the shock on and you can pry it off.

You can replace the springs while you have the shocks off, it is easier than taking the lower bolts off the shocks again later. Springs are easy to replace. they should basically drop out or need a little compression with a coil compressor that yo can rent for next to nothing.

 

SAWZ ALL SAWZ ALL SAWZ ALL. I love the smell of burning steel and urethane in the morning. Save the Nipples Each year countless nipples are lost. A nipple is a terrible thing to wast.