Guy`s I need to find the power window fuse and or relay on a 1988 sr-5 4 runner I checked the fuse block drivers side kick panel and the main under the hood all fuses check good so I`m thinking theres a hidden fuse/relay set up help it`s fixin to typhoon here shortly.

 

Is is the rear window? If it is I think the power window, rear wiper and rear washer pump are all on the same 20 amp circuit. It is located near the driverside kick panel, on the firewall side. Has a small black plastic housing with a metal top with a hole in it. Take a pin and push it in the hole, when you hear a click it should be reset. Hope this helps.

 

Sorry was in a big rush the rains comin quickly !!
it`s actually the driver and passenger windows no power to the switches but i jumped the motors with a battery to get`em up safe for the moment also checked and doubled checked all fuses in the block as well as the power window command lock switch.

 

Good to hear, good luck with the storm.

 

the relay is behind the panel above the driver's side seat belt retractor. this site: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...arWindow.shtml
has a lot of info for troubleshooting problems with the back window.

 

M thanks for the lead,
But my problems are with the front windows the rear is fine.
Still looking around while we are waiting for a call back from Toyota Kanagawa(here in Japan) pffft fat chance I say,but my Japanese bro says they will.

Update the relay M referred to is on the passenger side on the Japanese version,stupid me not thinking took apart MY driver side and thought about it and went duh!

 

Thanks to those who gave advice/links.
End result was the window control module and we at the shop discussed it and went with replacing the factory power line with a power line/30 amp fuse directly the window control switch in effect bypassing the window control module,which by the way runs about $250 out here.
This now gives me power to the windows without the key.
Thanks again
Daniel

 

Seems on the later 1st gen Runners they use a Power Window Module not a relay, Toyota wanted $419 Cdn plus 15% Tax for this puppy. (Stupid Stealerships)

THANKS Wolfen

FIX:

Run a power line from the battery with a 30AMP fuse, into the door. Splice this Power line into the Blue Wire with Red Stripe (Located: Drivers Side Window Switches)

This Bypasses the Power Window Module all together. The neat part is that the windows will go up and down without the key in the ignition.

WOOT

 

I know this post is @10yrs old but I ran into an issue with the fix. I spliced the hot line from the battery to the blue/red wire which did what you said. However the switch on the passenger door doesn't work any longer. Both windows work from the drivers side, which is primary of course. Just would like to figure out how to make them both work, without the key.

 

Did you test the right door switch contacts ??

Could even be the wires .

The right switch has two sets of contacts when the switch is in neutral one set is closed allowing the motor to work from the master switch.

If you spliced into the Blue/red stripe wire it should work unless there is a problem in the blue/red strip wire going to the right switch.

That sends battery voltage to allow the right switch to work.

Comes down to wire or switch contacts

 

Hey Wyoming. Love your post count and support for this community.

Yeah, I'm suffering similar issues with the passenger door window. Obviously it isn't the motor as I tested that first. Rolls up and down with a 12V source. Changed out regulators for kicks and no luck. Then I tried switches and no luck again. Both switches for driver and passenger.

I'm reading this thread and I'm not a fan of playing with wiring but this is a no brainer. Can someone post a few more pics to us scrub electrical clowns?

Again, thanks Wyoming. Your support for us all is appreciated.

 

This module is the blue unit below my left knee under the dash, correct?

Just asking so I know because I'm not accepting a hot wire of one door window to the battery .... yet =)

 

The wires are either broken either at the left door which most often sees much more use then the right .

At the right door

Or

The switches you replaced brand new ?? used sitting around that things may have corroded.

Nothing like checking with a meter and the probes having a good connection yet when plugged in things don`t work

 

Still struggling with that passenger window. I pulled a working power window switch from my second truck and it still isn't operating. From driver side or passenger side.

Obviously it's a wire as you suggested. Do you have a suggested solution for this issue? I mean a route for the wire if I am going to source it from the battery, etc.

Thanks again.

===========
92 - V6 - Manual

 

Without knowing just where the problem is if you want it to work from both sides .

your talking about running a wire to the left door then from there over to the right door .

Since you need a positive and a ground to be sure it works now your running two wires .

Much easier to find the problem and fix that .

Just what year are you working on??

 

First thing is to figure out which wire is bad. Since you have neither up nor down, and neither switch works, I'm going with the ground wire at the pax door as most likely single fail. (Up and Down are separate power feeds.) From the pic, looks like a '96-'98 4Runner. (Exact year big help). So look at your pax door window switch. Two wires go to motor, three out door into truck. The one to pin 5 is ground. With latch on top, Pin 5 is lower right on the plug looking at the pin side of the plug. On a '96. that's a Blue wire with red stripe. Not sure about color on other years, but should always be that pin. Test that pin for ground. If not present, wire in a test ground and see if that fixes it. Post back with your results. I'll either help you trace the fail if that's it, or we'll try something else. This is doable with patience.

Need the year!

 

Just a note on the truck: 1992.

I began the process of changing the power wire from the terminal to the fuse box. It was so clean that I changed my mind and decided to work on the passenger window instead.

I put the fuse box back in place and re-attach the battery, I accidentally hit the master window control on the driver door and the pax window rolls down. I stopped immediately. I try to roll it up and nothing. So that is where I stopped for the moment. Now I'm thinking its vital to change out the power wire to the fuse box before I even think about another step.

The wiring of the switch is as you suggest for 92. Pin 5 is blue/red and it showed continuity as a ground.

 

Okay. Window goes down but not up now. I unplugged the harness from the motor and rolled it up with a hot to the battery.

I picked up a different window harness for that door however I cannot reach the plug behind the heater blower under the dash to unplug the current harness.

As wyoming said above, I'd rather do it the right way and fix the problem. But I'm not desperate yet either. =)

 

Seems to me the right way is to identify the problem first, and then try to fix it. But that's just the way I do things.

It would seem the Red/Black wire from the master switch to Pin 2 of the pax door switch is open. It should carry ground when no buttons are pushed. I would first test that at both doors. Then, this wire goes through three connectors, one in the right kick panel, one under the dash in the center, and one in the left kick panel. I'd check each of those for presence of ground and you should be well on your way to isolating the fault (assuming '92 is like '96.)

Looking at it again, I had it backwards in my previous post. The power comes in on Pin 5. The other two wires carry ground. (Of course, I'm looking at '96 and not '92.)

Anyway, here is the '96 Power Window EWD.

 

I was working from the 92 EWD

96 is the next generation knowing Toyota enough changed to be interesting