So I busted my knuckles and had my problems but managed to take pics in the process. There are other tips and write-ups, but this is for what is probably the majority of the 4Runners. I apologize for big pics...

First, are the tools I started the project with... you may be able to get by on less, but if doing the removal on jack stands and a creeper like I did then the safety glasses are a must, unless you like rust in your eyes.


This is how it looks when you crawl under there... you can't really even see the 2 bolts holding the starter in...


Three bolts are removed to get the exhaust bracket out of the way. Here is the view after it's gone (bolts visible). I will note these bolts were very difficult to remove.


Here are the 2 connections to the starter. The plastic part is removed with a flat head screwdriver, wiggling it apart in the middle.


The top bolt was the hardest for me, darn there impossible to get the right combinations of tools to break it loose. This small torch is what saved me. Here's what it took for me.


Here's the position the starter has to come out in...


Once it's out...


After removing the 3 small bolts on the solenoid you see this...


Here is the plunger removed... note the dirty contact surface, which had to be cleaned with sandpaper and electrical contact cleaner...


Here's a view of what caused my problems, a bad contact. If you turn the key and get a click, chances are this is your problem.


Comparison of old and new contacts... could have probably gotten away not replacing the squarish one by the looks of it.


The inside of the solenoid with plunger removed. I have the new contacts in at this point.


The hard part of this was getting the bolts out. I sprayed everything down with Parts Blaster (PB) a couple times the day before, from the back. If I were to do it again I think it would have been easier had I gotten the bolts from the front of the motor, and gotten them a couple times over the course of a week. Problem is it's real tough to even see them. I also undid the sway bar, which is a must. The other write-ups are good, although they all had slight differences. It took me 5 hours of driving around to find the parts, which costed a whopping $1.89 total. I found them at a small alternator/starter shop. Some parts stores will have them, but don't expect to have them look it up as "98 Toyota 4Runner", just say you need starter contacts. It's a Nippon Denso, so Honda's and Mopars will use these same contacts. I had zero luck finding these parts at the Toyota, Honda, or Mopar dealer. This was a pain, but when you compare $1.89 to getting a rebuilt or having the stealer put one in... it's worth the pain. Hope it helps.

 

Harley/Davidson's too!

 

awesome, awesome writeup......looks like you beat me to the detailed pics as I will be doing this this spring and will be taking the same pics for a 2000 4runner, i'll add them to this link......thanks again for the writeup, saving it in my favs for about a month or 2

 

My starter is just plain not "firing" sometimes when I turn the key. No click, though. Are you telling me that at 180,000 miles I might be able to do what you did and be back in business?! I was sure I was looking at $100 to $170 for a new starter! I have to admit, I'm a little skeptical that mine wouldn't still act up sooner or later after all that hard work to remove and reinstall, given it's age. Wouldn't a new starter be a safer bet? Thanks!

PS Great write-up and pics, though!

 

good info i hope i dont have the joy of taking mine out

 

Nice pics. Too bad I don't have a 3rd gen to work on.

Troy

 

You're gonna have to pull it regardless, if you can afford a bit of downtime pull it and see if this is the problem... if not, just buy a new one!

 

Great writeup and even better pics!......this is what YT is all about!

I agree, the auto-electric shops are the best place to get starter and alternator parts. You just pull out the old parts, bring them in, tell them what the make of the item is (Delco, Hitachi, Nippon Denso, etc) and they'll usually match the parts exactly. There are only a limited number of models for starters and alternators of each brand and often they use the same parts anyway (often just in a different housing). Most of the time the parts won't cost you more than $10 either.....$1.89 is a heck of a bargain vs a rebuilt or new starter's cost.

 

Wow, excellent writeup!
Please keep the pics hosted for a long time!

 

I did this same thing to the starter on my 98 3RZ tacoma when it was having problems at 150K miles (still runnining strong 2 years later). I'd much rather replace the contacts on a toyota starter for cheap than install a aftermarket one that the local autoparts store will sell you. Big difference in quality IMHO. You can always replace it with a new starter from toyota for $$$

 

The clicking sound is from the solenoid plunger being pulled down and mating those contacts you see in the last pic together, letting the current flow from the battery to the starter motor. The reason mine wasn't working right is because the plunger came down and hit the starter motor side (the squarish terminal that was still in decent shape) but since the battery side one was worn away (as seen in photo) it didn't touch it, and no electrical connection was made. That's the only problem, a terminal that costed less than a buck.

You may have a different problem, but I'd be willing to bet it's either corroded terminals or bad contacts or plunger. Having seen the photos I posted, you know what you're looking for, how it should and shouldn't look. Besides the money saved over either buying a new starter or even worse having the dealer installing a new starter, you get the satisfaction and experience of having done it yourself. Come to think of it, that's one of the major reasons Yotatech is Yotatech!:bigclap:

 

great photographs. info was short and concised.

 

Another concern: What about bearings? Do they last for several hundred thousand miles on Toys, or is there a chance they could be near the end of their lifespan at 180K? Exscuse my skeptisysm. You're talking to a former Chevy owner!

 

Steve, that's a good thought, but most of the time the bearings are very heavy duty (similar to an alternator or they may be self oiled brass bushings such as on the end of the starter motor shaft) so as long as the grease seals hold up, the starter motor should last up into the k200-300 mile range. The next thing to go IMHO would be the brushes on the starter motor itself.....but in that time you'd probably go through 2 sets of solenoid contacts before that happens. Every situation is different, but that's my $0.02 anyway.

 

Makes sense Jamie! I think I'll try that fix then, as another $200 shelled out on top of my lift parts, etc. does not appeal to me that much right now! Timing belt is past due, as well. Trying to decide whether to be bold enough to try that myself or not! Do you know if these are interference engines?

 

Update on this topic: After reading this thread, I pulled my starter out last week (yes, it was a pain to wrestle it out of it's black hole!) and went to a starter/alternator rebuild shop and the guy GAVE me the new contacts! I asked how long I could expect the starter to last, telling him it now had over 180,000 on it, and he said I should get another 100,000 out of it! He said it's one of the best starters made and about the only thing that ever goes out on them is the contacts. He said Toyota's alternators were the best, too. That was good to hear! My contacts actually only looked dirty, but I'm replacing them since it's apart. Anyway, great write-up and much appreciated! I would have dropped $100 to $200 for a new starter had this not been posted! Not what I needed after just purchasing new suspension and an adjustable panhard bar, etc.!

 

I have the same problem with my starter now. It will just click. IF you keep turning the key it will eventually catch.

I went to toyota for the contacts and the dude told me that I would have to bring in the contacts to match them up...there was no way of knowing what type of starter is in my truck. Is this true? Wouldn't all USA 2000 Limited 4Runners have the same starter from the factory?

Thanks!

 

order new contacts from www.4crawler.com

 

Great write up! I'm going to say it's probably easier to do it on the ground as I did mine at the shop with a lift. I got so fustrated with having to lower/lift/lower/lift the lift every so often. My biggest problem was trying to squeeze the starter out of the frame and body. Another help might be a long 3/8" extenstion with a swivel head.

 

i've got the starter click n start or not start problem too. now no click. i did get my parts at toyota dealership for 10 for the small contact and twenty for the large contact. thats in cdn. i've got some very long extensions and i'll post my results hopfully soon. great pic's on this post and very helpfull to grasp the job.
by the way the dealer kit does include several o-rings and gaskets.