1997 4Runner problems to look for?
#1
1997 4Runner problems to look for?
Hello!
I've found what looks to be a solid 1997 4-Runner and am seriously thinking about buying it. The overall condition of the vehicle is nice and the owner claims to have maintained the vehicle regularly, etc. CARFAX shows nothing other than the date of original sale and emissions testing.
I'm buying the vehicle from the original owner and she says she's always kept it maintained as per Toyota guidelines. The mileage right now is somewhere around 150K and the timing belt was changed at 135K. It leaves no oil on the ground and the owner tells me that it doesn't use any oil between changes.
The only known mechanical issue is that the rear window doesn't roll down. That should be a pretty simple fix. Of course the seats have some wear, etc but the body is straight, etc.
So, other than giving it a good once-over and a test drive, is there anything specific to watch out for? I know the 3.4 engine is reported to be much better in pretty much all departments over the older 3.0. But is there anything that is problematic with these rigs?
TIA!
I've found what looks to be a solid 1997 4-Runner and am seriously thinking about buying it. The overall condition of the vehicle is nice and the owner claims to have maintained the vehicle regularly, etc. CARFAX shows nothing other than the date of original sale and emissions testing.
I'm buying the vehicle from the original owner and she says she's always kept it maintained as per Toyota guidelines. The mileage right now is somewhere around 150K and the timing belt was changed at 135K. It leaves no oil on the ground and the owner tells me that it doesn't use any oil between changes.
The only known mechanical issue is that the rear window doesn't roll down. That should be a pretty simple fix. Of course the seats have some wear, etc but the body is straight, etc.
So, other than giving it a good once-over and a test drive, is there anything specific to watch out for? I know the 3.4 engine is reported to be much better in pretty much all departments over the older 3.0. But is there anything that is problematic with these rigs?
TIA!
#3
If all goes right, I'll pick up the new rig this weekend. It is in AZ and I'm in NM so it'll take a little effort to get. No big deal, I guess, since a little road trip will help me shake the vehicle down after I buy it.
I was enjoying my 1994 4Runner up until two weekends ago when the head gasket blew. I didn't really do my homework on that vehicle and the known problems with the head gaskets and now that's coming back to haunt me. I live in a small town and the lack of a good machine shop and/or mechanic familiar with the 3.0 (Toyota? Never heard of 'em. They make cars?) lead me to look for another vehicle.
What I'll do with the '94 is still undecided...
I was enjoying my 1994 4Runner up until two weekends ago when the head gasket blew. I didn't really do my homework on that vehicle and the known problems with the head gaskets and now that's coming back to haunt me. I live in a small town and the lack of a good machine shop and/or mechanic familiar with the 3.0 (Toyota? Never heard of 'em. They make cars?) lead me to look for another vehicle.
What I'll do with the '94 is still undecided...
#4
Rear axle seals are a common issue with our Runners.
Steering rack and/or bushings should also be checked-inner tie rod wear is all related and best checked at an alignment shop.
Malfunctioning dash clock and inaccurate fuel gauge are also common to the 3rd gens-both inconveniences of no real consequence.
Steering rack and/or bushings should also be checked-inner tie rod wear is all related and best checked at an alignment shop.
Malfunctioning dash clock and inaccurate fuel gauge are also common to the 3rd gens-both inconveniences of no real consequence.
#5
Frame
I had a 1998 sr5 3.4 with the auto, I loved that 4runner. The frame rusted out on both sides, but the passenger side was the worst. This was an Ohio 4runner so it saw road salt. Shouldnt be much of an issue for you.
this was where the frame starts to turn up and go over the rear axle
this was where the frame starts to turn up and go over the rear axle
#6
I just bought one less than a month ago. I checked the belts and while test driving I tried to be as hard on the engine as I could. I checked to see if the Locking Differential worked, the 4x4, windows, lights...etc
I did need to replace 3 bulbs that went out, 1 behind the HVAC controls, one in the ashtray and the one that lights up your P,R,N,D where you shift.
It was more annoying not having them at night. easy fix. Check for that kind of stuff.
I did need to replace 3 bulbs that went out, 1 behind the HVAC controls, one in the ashtray and the one that lights up your P,R,N,D where you shift.
It was more annoying not having them at night. easy fix. Check for that kind of stuff.
#7
The big planetary goes out on the automatics after 100 - 125K.
The overdrive control stops working at about the same time.
Buy stock in light bulbs.
Look for rust underneath.
Check for the "tech bulletin" spring and shock replacement in back.
Watch for oil around the head gaskets.
That's small stuff as long as you stay ahead of it. I just bought a '97 4R 4x with 150K and outside of the few little things it's been great.
STICK
The overdrive control stops working at about the same time.
Buy stock in light bulbs.
Look for rust underneath.
Check for the "tech bulletin" spring and shock replacement in back.
Watch for oil around the head gaskets.
That's small stuff as long as you stay ahead of it. I just bought a '97 4R 4x with 150K and outside of the few little things it's been great.
STICK
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#8
i had a 1998 sr5 3.4 with the auto, i loved that 4runner. The frame rusted out on both sides, but the passenger side was the worst. This was an ohio 4runner so it saw road salt. Shouldn't be much of an issue for you.
this was where the frame starts to turn up and go over the rear axle
this was where the frame starts to turn up and go over the rear axle
#9
I am 2 for 2 on rear differentials.
Try to listen for a whirling noise that sounds like it is coming from the tranny. Also grab the driveshaft toward the diff and pull and push hard on the yoke and see if the Diff pinion moves. The Carrier Bearing Preload (CBPL) and Pinion Pre Load (PPL) can get loose on these guys. Tighten them up and you may not have to replace the rear. There is an article at Zuks site www.gearinstalls.com.
Also--all the things we have mentioned are easy to do except for the head gasket leaking oil......but i think that only happend in the very early 3.4's. Mine have been manual so so i have no idea about the autos--
Good Luck and happy building--oh yeah--you Will enjoy the 3.4 much better.............
Try to listen for a whirling noise that sounds like it is coming from the tranny. Also grab the driveshaft toward the diff and pull and push hard on the yoke and see if the Diff pinion moves. The Carrier Bearing Preload (CBPL) and Pinion Pre Load (PPL) can get loose on these guys. Tighten them up and you may not have to replace the rear. There is an article at Zuks site www.gearinstalls.com.
Also--all the things we have mentioned are easy to do except for the head gasket leaking oil......but i think that only happend in the very early 3.4's. Mine have been manual so so i have no idea about the autos--
Good Luck and happy building--oh yeah--you Will enjoy the 3.4 much better.............
#11
I believe this is the case with 2001-2002 models only. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but in 2001-2002 Toyota had a different version of the A340 transmission that shared fluid with the transfer case I think.
#12
Nope, try again. 1997. Trans guy I deal with told me it's pretty typical for these (the 1996 - '98), but also mentioned that it's more likely to happen sooner if you've towed. Previous owner claimed to have only used this 4R to tow once, and only a tiny U-Haul trailer from Utah to San Diego, but the hitch is definitely used, so it could have been exaggerated by more towing than he was willing to confess.
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