I got a 95 as pictured, I got some ruffed up 3rd gen wheels as pictured. I got a steal at a yard sale the other day on 19 of the 24 needed Toyota Avalon lugnuts. Will they do the trick for these wheels or do I need waste a hundred bucks on "truck" lugnuts? Oh did I mention I'm taking them to be sand blasted and painted tomorow and I'm still undecided on the color, black or stock silver.

 

You need OEM style lugnuts that have a flat washer, not a taper.

 

Wabbit it does have a flat washer heres a side pic of it, let me know what you think. I paid a littel for em bucks for em all, I'd like to be able to use them but if now I'm sure somebody on here could.

 

i work at a tire store (americas tire co.) and yes you can use the lug nut in the 3rd picture that you put up... as long as the other 19 lugs have a flat washer on the end... so yeah use that, and you wouldnt have to go buy OEM lug nuts anyways

 

thanks guys I measured em up against the ones wabfab posted and they match, these are def. the same yota lugs the've been using on 70% of there fleet for a while. Now I just gotta find 5 more, only have 19?

 

Also what do i use to take of the lugnuts without stripping the black paint or should I leave them unpainted?

 

Go ahead and paint them. Taking them off with hand tools will prolong that paint but if the chip or get scratched, paint them again. Its not like they are going to come off a lot.
Also what kind of rim do you have for a spare? If its a steel wheel or an aluminum that uses a tapered lugnut, have a set for spare tire use.

 

desert, I keep telling myself I'm going to crawl under the back and pull the spare out at somepoint but its always to damned hot. I do know by just looking its factory from 95 and looks like its never been used.

 

Factory steel? If so get another set of 6 acorn lugnuts for use with the spare. Also a good idea to make sure there's air in there. You have all the spare tire parts I assume. Jack, tools, wrench, proper lugnuts for spare.

 

this isn't necessary. The factory alloy shank lug nuts have an acorn/tapered end which accommodates aluminum AND steel rims. Think about cars that cam stock with alloys, they didn't come with 5-6 spare lug nuts in the glove box!

All factory spares in 95 were steel rims. Assuming its never been out from under the truck, its a steel rim.

 

Once again. Just because its there, doesn't mean its a good idea.

I've seen too many wheels damaged by those lugnuts used on steel wheels from coming loose. Yes they were a factory item but like the "donut" spare tires we've all seen in cars at some point, they should be used minimally. Just to get the average owner to the service station and a tire or repair. Not at all meant to go fast or far.

People, do whatever you want but for the amount of room they take up and the cost, be smarter here than the ones I've seen come into my shops with these lugnuts. They don't contact the rim with as much surface area. And maybe these people left them on longer than recommended but wouldn't you rather use lugnuts that were inteded for that rim?

 

So toyota is selling hundreds of thousands of vehicles with the wrong lug nuts on them? You think they would sell something unsafe?

One of the guys I race with uses alloy lugs on steel wheels, and they contact just find. Toyota lug nuts are tapered at the end just like an acorn style wheel. There is no difference between the acorn lug nuts and shank lug nuts, in terms of how much they contact the surface of the steel wheel. Thats why Toyota makes them with the taper on the very end...just like acorn lug nuts.

 

As much as it pains me to say this, DC is right on this one IMO. From an engineering standpoint the taper and the amount of thread engagement is covered as the extra amount of lugnut sticking out is irrelevant, thus why some lugnuts are open.

The dual lugnut is an ingenious idea. People who belabor trying to deface its credibility don't understand simple physics.

 

I understand your opinion and I know what I (personally) have seen.

However I don't want to argue the point, instead I'd just like to let our veiwers see someone elses experience. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-70mph-184674/
I'd rather be wrong than dead right.

 

That thread merely proves my point.

If you compare the two styles side by side, you will see the lug nuts are the same diameter where they taper. Toyota designed the lug nuts to be used with aluminum and steel, and for long periods of time. The OP admitted that he did NOT properly torque the lug nuts, set center the wheel, AND was dealing with rust issues!

The only two people in that thread who don't agree are you and Troy, and I would put my money on Troy not having installed his wheel right OR torqueing it down to spec. While shank lug nuts are self centering on Aluminum wheels, they are NOT on steel wheels. Just like with Acorn lug nuts, you can't just cinch them down and call it good. The wheel has to be centered, and torqued to proper specs, without things like rust or corrosion disallowing the wheel to sit down properly.

If someone REALLY wants to carry around spare lug nuts, whatever. But it is NOT necessary, and if you properly install shank lug nuts on a steel wheel you can run them forever.

 

i put like 300 miles on the spare tire once useing the same lug nuts for the alloy wheels didn't notice any problems

 

Okay okay, no, it doesn't happen every time. Of course not. However the only reason I picked up on that shank nut/steel wheel combo is because Ihave seen it happen before. More than once. AND it will keep on happening.
Working for years in Tire stores and other shops will allow a person to see so much more than whats going on on their own rig or their friends'.

I don't care how many people agree with me, thats not the point. This is not a competition to see how popular my answer is.

The last thing I will say about this is that the short taper on the end of the shaft on those aluminum rim lugnuts is most likely the correct angle, however its taper doesn't go as far up the nut as an acorn does. You have less surface contact, yes, surface contact between the nut and the rim. Especially on a rim that has been used a while. You know that the seat part of the rims gets distorted and mushrooms out a little over time. Right? Can we agree on that?
Well this happens quicker when there is less of a mating surface. Like a 12 point socket fits a particular nut, say 17mm, just fine. So does the 6 point 17mm socket. However the 12 point distorts that same nut easier because of....less surface contact.
So an acorn lugnut will fit that new or worn seating area better than anything with a smaller tapered area. And cranking down on that little taper will probably just cut into the wheel some.

No hard feelings with anybody that disagrees with me. I could care less.
Peace and out.

 

Great info guys. My 88 came with stock "steelies" when I bought it new, and this weekend, as I finally decided to mount O.E. SR5 alloys on it, I struggled finding "correct" shank style nuts from the local auto parts store. All I could find were 12 x 1.5mm with a shank, 3/4" long (which was too long even w/ the supplied flat washer) and .620 shank diameter, which did nothing to center the wheel during tightening. So I go to the dealer, thinking they can help. The parts guy was clueless, and I left scratching my head.

After reading this posted it makes COMPLETE sense, but I reach out to you experts to ask.... Where can I get the correct lugnuts for these wheels other than paying $7 each from the dealer (close to $200 for the setl!!)

Much thanks!!!