I would like to know how to go about replacing the front inner and outer bearings and seals...1995 4runner 4x4 SR5 v-6....I think it has add beacuse I can put her in 4H while rolling @ speed.....does anyone have a diagram or picks on how to do this...I know how to get the outer bearings out but haven't gone as far as removing the rotors to get to the inners and don't know what to expect.My manual doesn't cover this part just checking and repacking them.....I have parts new rotors, new outer bearings, new inner bearings, seals (are they on just the inner bearings only? and are they the same as grease seals like on the rear bearings?)..and high temp grease....thanks for any help

 

try this link: http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/index.html
there are several online/downloadable factory service manuals (toyota, not haynes) you should be able to find what you need there...

 

Hmm. I think I got some Pdf over this stuff... Might try to dig it up!
But, it's pretty easy, but you need torque meter for the wheel bearings and 54mm (not sure what's that in inches, prolly around 2" 1/16" or something..) key. They sell it on Marlin Crawler I know, but prolly able to find it other shops.

Anywho. Assuming you got the car on jack stands without the wheels on. Take off the brake caliper. Then you release the nuts that hold the flange. Use a hammer to tap the sides until the cones (correct word?) fall out. I think there is a C-split there on the axle end, release that aswell. (Maybe there is other stuff that's holdin' the flange as well, been quite a time since I had to work with IFS stuff) There is a locker shim, need to use a screwdriver to release that one, release the nut that the shim holds tight, take out the shim, and the other nut inside that holds the wheel bearing, take out the shim and voila, the hub/rotor should be released now.
Pull out the outer bearing, pull out the inner bearing seal, and the inner bearing. Then you need to use a screwdriver or a extension for 1/2" ratchet to tap the bearing sleeves out of the hub. There are two "slots" on the behind of the sleeve that you can tap to, you can see it if you clean out the grease and look inside the hub.

Clean everything, put abit of lube and use the older sleeves to tap the new ones instead of the old ones. Remember to turn them correctly and turn them both the same! Other wise you wont be able to release the older ones out of the hub after you've put the new ones in!

Now, fill the bearings with grease and put the inner bearing inside, install the oil seal and put the hub back on the spindle. Install the outer bearing (after you've lubed it) and then the shim, and the 1st nut. Tighten to 57N/m and turn the rotor few times front and back, retighten to 57N/m. Then release the nut so that you can spin it with your fingers, tighten it with your fingers and then 9N/m or 'bout 1/8 out of a ring with the wrench.
put the NEW locker shim (it's better to get new ones, I've broken older ones two times!) put the 2nd nut and tighten with your fingers, then 1/8 out of a ring with the wrench. Then lock two or three sides of the shim. It's kind of a star, it explains it self when you tear it apart!
Finally the flange and stuff...

Have fun, this is prolly not the most accurate way of doin' it but should get you a long way. Btw, it's always better if you know someone who has done this before to take a look at things with you.

And I recomend a repair manual, Max Ellery's are my fav. Can be bought pretty cheap on Amazon.

Hope this helps anything.

 

Step by step:
http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/ar....jsp?id=186138

 

Tanks to all u guys If I can help all of u with some answers to any commercial or residential building questions please feel free to send me a private message with your question

 

OK guys I have changed the front inner bearing, outer bearing, and cones/races, rotors on each side..The instructions that ULFR provided on post above works to the tee..I also used a retchet extension to beat the bearing cones out and on my hub they give 4 slots on each side of the hub to access the cones....I put it all back together it took me longer than I thought but I got it done....I went for a test drive and I could feel that the grinding is still there but not as bad and the rotors being new, removed the rotor shake that I had and and may have helped with a vibration...now the guys in the shop said that the rear wheel bearings may be bad or the bearings in the t-case but they said that it's not bad enough for them to know which one it is......so I'm still getting some grinding but now I know that I have elimated the front bearings ,rotors, and races/cones....the guys in the shop also said that sometimes the carrier bearings will go bad in the rear chunk on the drivers side but the grinding is not bad enough to pinpoint and to just drive her until she gets worse so I can know where the grinding is to pinpoint.....now does sny one have the same problem as I have...I would like to know what should I do next I just keep throwing parts on her much needed parts but would like to enjoy using the 4runner in stead of working on her every weekend sense I purchased it July 1st 08...

Dwayne

 

Could just be the new rotor/pads wearing in.

 

I just found out the rear chunk is bad I put the 4runner on stands at the rear and hand spun the tires forward & backwards and there is a lot of slack and during the rotation I feel some binding then free rotation then some binding.I decided to get in the 4runner put her in drive freewheeled up to 30 and the grinding and vibration is bad I then went up to 50-55 and the whole 4runner was vibrating and grinding......so now I have found the problem area what should I do next..

 

sounds like you either need to rebuild the third, or replace it. You should be able to get a stocker for around $250 from a salvage yard. this is a fairly simple swap. If you are the lucky owner of a 4.30 third as am I. the cost goes up. these are harder to find. possibly cheaper to replace the front and rear thirds with a different ratio. maybe a salvage yard would give you a deal on 2?? the grinding may be from the shim thingy's (sorry for the technical terms, I'm just rewriting some of what I have read researching my similar problem) alllowing too much slack between the pinion gear?? and the ring gear. Appearantly if the shims get out of whack, the gears ride together wrong and cause a wine or if too far off grinding noise. My pinion gear has no teth left and it started with ten. Could also just be smoe of the bearings in the third,
Jack her up take off the wheels, and hubs, remove the drive shaft, adn the 10 nuts that hold the third on to the rear axel housing. If the gears look good you just need bearings, probably $100-150, if the gears are shot you will be best served (cheapest option) to replace the third with a stock from a salvage. Or you can send it off to the guys who rebuild them, adn put a locker in it and all the fun stuff and spend about $k.
I opted for the salvaged third. Lucky me 4.30 rear end $370 is from some place in california. I'll let you know how that works out when its done. the part should get here tomorrow. I have some welding to do first (chevy leaf spring swap, out of need not want. rust rust rust)
Good luck on yours. Ps I did find a rear axel guy on ebay stores that may have a 4.30 if thats what you end up with, just search on ebay, I dont remember who it was or I would pm you.. 43 teeth on ring gear and 10 on pinion gear, by the way.

 

I am about to tackle this rotor replacement and repack the bearings. The truck has the original bearings and seals. Should I get replace the bearings? Are there prefered bearing to get?

89 4runner 1st generation.

 

well, it's good to replace them if they are stock... But I guess if there's no problem with them you shouldn't have to. If you are planin' on repackin them you might as well replace them. It's the same task anyway and new bearings makes you 'safe' for the next few miles.

I've been usin' koyo bearings. They seem to tackle the 44s okay.
Not sure if they are the cheapest 'round, but I have never been thinkin' really much of few dollars savin' on something like bearings... These things, after all, are supposed to handle the weight of the truck, and the extra "stress".

I think my writeup up there, in the post, tackles it quite okay. But you have to have a repair manual for the torque specs and a torque meter. (Unless you think you can tighten to c.a. 50-70Nm without measurin the torque... I rarely use my torque meter these days. )

Good luck!