It's been a long time since I've changed my own oil, but I'm pretty sure I remember how. It's like riding a bike, right? You never forget.
Remove engine oil cap
Remove drain bolt from pan
Let it drain
Pull filter
Replace filter
Replace drain bolt
Refill oil
Put cap back on

Am I missing anything? The main reason I'm posting this is I'm wondering if there is anything out of the ordinary with the 3.0 that I should be aware of? Tips for removing the filter, do I need an oil filter wrench? Does the skid plate have to come off? Stuff like that.
It's a 94 3.0 auto with 177K. I'm going to be putting in some Valvoline Maxlife 10w40. I'm hoping it will help with my oil pressure and maybe stop (or at least postpone for a while) a pretty small oil leak that could possibly be my rear main seal. I don't have the money to get that replaced right now.

 

I haven't changed my oil in a decade or more. Dealership. For the price and time involved it's cheaper for me. Besides I'm up there 3+ times a week anyway.

:wabbit2:

 

That sounds right, just look under your rig and see if you have access to the drain plug, if so you wont need to remove it.

I guess the dealership would do a good job, I have done it myself for years, by the time I wait and wait, it could have been done already. I also get to control what goes in the motor and it's probably less than half the cost.....for me its a no-brainer.

 

I don't know if in stock form people have this problem, but my 22re 4runner with a 4" lift drains right onto my front my front diff. I usually make a long chute/funnel out of newspaper to guide the oil.

 

How do you guys remove the old oil filter? Hands, oil filter wrench, special toyota tool??

 

I have the same problem as Duickie due to my lift as well. I just create a long funnel out of what ever as well. It seems to work fine. Also I (obviously) always replace my filter so if i can't get it with my hands, and as i don't have a wrench i just puncture it with a screwdriver and undo it then put the new one on.

 

I was able to get the old one off with a wrench pretty easily. A lot of oil spilled everywhere though, but not too bad.
My problem was with tightening the new one. I used a Fram spring action oil filter wrench after I got it hand tight, but I couldn't get it the 3/4 turn as reccomended in the FSM. I tightened it as much as I could, but I was afraid that I would puncture the filter if I got it any tighter. It was still seeping a TINY bit out the bottom of the filter. Not sure if it was leaking, or maybe a little bit of the oil I greased the gasket with squeezing out. I took it down the street to a shop and the guy tightened it for me. He was able to get it about 1/4" more, and I think that was all it needed. He said any tighter and I would strip the threads.
Needless to say I think this will be the last time I change my own oil in the 4Runner. What a pain in the ass!

And it took all 5 quarts and still seems to be on the lower end of the dipstick. Is that normal? It's only supposed to be 4.8 quarts, but I probably spilled the other .2 around the garage somewhere.

 

I never had a problem changing the oil on the 3.0's I've had. As long as you have a filter wrench to remove the old filter. I also used to use the Fram filters with the easy grip which makes it easy to remove and install but I don't trust Fram and haven't used them in a long time. I'd rather do it myself, save some cash (especially with the 6.7 Powerstroke), and you know it was done right. Heard too many horror stories from getting an oil change at a lube place or the dealer.

 

I always use a filter wrench 2 remove the oil filter. Its just easier that way. try finding an oil treatment that stops leaks at your local auto parts store

 

sure you're using the right filter? it shouldn't be so difficult to get that 3/4 turn after seating the gasket. I always change my own oil...that way I know exactly what went in there, not to mention it's about half the cost. make sure you check your dipstick frequently in the next couple of days to make sure you aren't leaking. also it's best to check after you've just shut off a warm engine.

 

If you do it yourself, go easy on tightening the new oil filter. My last oil change I had a difficult time getting the old one off. You would think after 92 oil changes I would have it down.

 

You guys must be WAY over tightening the filter. Its only supposed to be 3/4-1 turn after the gasket touches... Never had a problem loosening them by hand after only 3K-4K miles. Only problem is sometimes my hands are slippery from the oil.

Oh, and use the TOYOTA filters. They are cheaper and you get the drain plug gasket for free (at least, they are cheaper for me )

 

I don't think his problem was a too tight filter. Just the procedure.

 

I did have a little trouble getting the filter tight enough, at least I thought. It might have just been some of the oil that I used to lube the gasket seeping out. Anyway, it's on there good now and it's not leaking. I'll let whoever does it next worry about getting it off because I'm not going to do it anymore. Part of my problem was that my hands are too big, theres not much space there to work, and I didn't have the proper tool for the filter. Oh well. My oil pressure is much better with the 10w40 and I'm hoping that the maxlife cures a small leak that was starting to develop.

 

Wow I might have to use a filter wrench of some sort to get a filter loose but All my filters go on with just my hand no leaks .

Then they come off with just my hand I do this with all the vehicles I service.

One thing as many times as I changed oil I seem to always forget the shop rags to take under the vehicle and seem to always dump the filter on me

 

Be sure to check if the seal is still on there or not..forgot to do that a few changes ago. Worked great running to the parts store and back but after it cooled down a bit..I found I was suddenly doing another oil change...

Like Teuf said..You would think I would have that down by now.

 

I can't remember exactly what the FSM says, but I'm pretty sure it says to tighten it "finger tight" and then give it a 1/4 turn. You should never have to use a tool to tighten an oil filter. Finger tight means just that; you use just your fingers, not your hand, to get it tight and then use your hand for the 1/4 turn. I've used this practice on a number of cars for over 15 years and it has never let me down.

Like Bassmastry said, ALWAYS make sure that the old seal came off of the block. It will stick sometimes and it is hard to tell unless you look to see it is still on the old filter.

 

I bought a FRAM oil filter adapter thingy that fits on the end of a 3/8'' socket extension. my biggest issue has always been reaching mine on my 22re, but when I used this too the 1st time, I realized i had been struggling for no darn good reason.

secondly, the oil does drain across stuff, so make a chute or put some aluminum foil or something there to catch the drips.

as far as the filter....hand tight then just a little more by hand.

 

FSM says, " (d) lightly screw in the oil filter to where you feel resistance.

(e) Then, using SST, tighten the oil filter an extra 3/4 turn.

SST 09228-07500

 

hey...that FRAM wrenc I told ya about....only works on FRAM's.....just found that out doing an oil change a few minutes ago.....I was able to go in and reach the TOYOTA oil filter with a gloved hand and turn it......of course, still had to take the passengers wheel off