I'm planning on installing some kill switches in my '89 4Runner. I've done some searching, and it seems that the two best components to wire kill switches to are the ignitor and the fuel pump. My question is: which wires should I install the kill switches to, where are these wires, and what color are they? I don't know where to start. Also, for one of the kill switches, I plan to use a small, easily concealable switch and have a relay handle the load. What type of specs should I look for on the relay I use? RadioShack has a whole drawer full of relays, and once again I have no clue what to look for. Any help you can give is greatly appreciated!

 

Any thief worth his salt knows to jump the coil/igniter, so it's a waste of time killing that, imo. Fuel pump is alright, just be sure to interrupt it downstream of both the circuit opening relay AND the check connector. You should be able to find the wire color in one of these:
http://rs100.rapidshare.com/files/34...0.1995.SIL.rar
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...es/wiring.html

There may be some wire color differences between the 90 and 95 vehicles, but probably most of the important wires will be the same. There is more likely to be differences between the 88 and 89 trucks, but for whatever it's worth, here's the 88 fsm:
http://granolaboy.net/temp/toyota_tr...4runner_88.pdf

An alternative to killing the power lead to the pump is to interrupt the FC lead from the circuit opening relay to the vafm. The truck would start and then immediately stall.

Another wire worth considering is the power supply to the injectors: it comes from one of the terminals on the ignition switch. That would be tough for a thief to troubleshoot and bypass.

And you could wire a switch from coil/igniter power lead to the horn so that when the switch is in the on position, the horn will blow whenever power is applied to the coil/igniter.

Obviously, for the fuel pump or injector circuit, you need a switch capable of handling the amps and you need to solder the connections and use good heavy wire, so you don't degrade the function of what you're "killing".

 

do a google search for something that requires a 4-pin relay. usually the example is fog lights.

it will explain the basics of running a wire from your switch to the relay, cutting the power wire to your component and running it into then out of the relay, and grounding the relay. the switch should be powered by something that would only be on when the vehicle is ON, not ACC.

the switch will not directly carry the flow of electricity to your component, so you can use any decent switch. you may want to get a switch that resets to open circuit once de-energized. this would essentially be a "self arming" kill switch.

having more than one theft deterrent is a great thing. EXACTLY like your home security, it is the layers working together that increases effectiveness.

so theoretically you could do an injector kill, a starter kill, a fuel pump kill, reconfigure your clutch pedal and cancel switches, put a python in the back seat...etc etc.

 

I used the control wire to the EFI main relay. With the switch off, the relay doesn't operate so many parts of the ECU aren't powered. The starter turns but there is no fuel or spark.

 

Those links are a great help, thanks for sharing! I've had the 88 FSM on my PC since I bought the truck, I've been pouring over that lately.

You lost me with some of the vernacular there. What and where is the FC lead, and where is the VAFM circuit opening relay?

I'll look into the injector power supply. When you say iginition switch, do you mean the cylinder on the steering column where the key goes, or something else? Sorry for the newbiness, I still got a lot to learn about my truck.

Just to be clear, the power lead is the one closest to the body of the truck, right?

tj884Rdlx: I actually have fog lights wired up with a relay, so have a general idea of how they work. My question is about the specs needed for a relay I would need for my kill switches. Could I use the same one I used for my fogs, or do I need a more heavy duty one? If so, how many amps (relays are rated in amps, right?)

bugs1961: Where is the control wire for the EFI main relay?

Thanks for everyone's replies, now if I can only find the darn wires to the components you all mentioned!

 

Circuit opening relay is the fuel pump relay. Two things can trigger it to send power to the fuel pump. It is tripped by a wire from the start position of the ignition switch (yes, the one the key goes in), and it is also triggered by the fuel pump switch in the vafm (vane air flow meter - the thing attached to the air filter housing that measures air flow into the engine for the ecu (computer).

FC is the wire that goes from the COR to the VAFM, which gets grounded by the air meter when air flows into the engine. So FC must be grounded to keep the COR tripped and sending power to the fuel pump after you let go of the ignition key when the engine starts. If you interrupt FC, the COR will not be tripped after the motor starts and you let go of the ignition switch (and it moves from the 'start' position to 'on'). The pump will lose power and the motor will stall.

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...38circuito.pdf
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...33volumeai.pdf
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...28fuelpump.pdf


It's the wire connected to the positive (+) terminal of the ignition coil.

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../2systemci.pdf

Page EG1-133 has a schematic for the injector circuit:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...27troubles.pdf

 

Ah.....just what I needed. I'm having the frame repaired on my '86 and will be pulling the top off for the summer. Wanted to add some kill switches.......now I know how.

I'll also be fab'ing up a removable back window behind the cab seats. It will lock from the inside. Nothing complicated. Just some thick plywood and plexiglass. Just enough of something to deter someone from just being able to reach in. Of course, the tool box gets bolted down and locked, as well. If someone was really dedicated, they could get in. But, it will atleast be a first line of defense. Kill switches first, though.

Thanks for the thread.

 

Good ideas!!

 

See also: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...y-91-a-201169/

 

The wire to the coil side of the EFI main relay is black/yellow stripe and is in the wrapped harness that runs along the inside of the firewall. I tapped into it under the passenger side behind the glove box by unwrapping the tape, finding the wire, splicing the switch wires in, and re-wrapping the harness. I wrapped the switch wires in electrical tape like the OEM harness's so it looks like it belongs and ran it along the main harness behind the heater and radio. The switch is hidden back there so it can't be seen from any angle without removing the center panels, but can be reached by feel if you know where to look.

The key to an effective switch is making everything look OEM so the thief can't find the wires to the switch with a quick look. You can be sure he knows what basic aftermarket wire looks like, which will immediately catch his attention. Hide your wire and switch knowing he will stick his head under your dash looking for anything out of the ordinary. Of course, if you have a spider web of wire from putting in a stereo under your dash, just put your switch wiring there!

 

Screw kill switches, get on of these and call it done
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ee3L9BQQ4Gs

 

Wow you people in the cities must have it rough.

I pretty much leave the keys in every where i go. Then no one would want to be seen driving any of my stuff .

While the idea of a kill switch is a good one if on a street vehicle they always seem to fail at the worst times.

Or you buy a vehicle and it came from the last owner via way of his exwife and they are not talking. He hid this kill switch real good. I have been hunting on and off for about a month. Since having it towed to my place.

 

Thanks a lot for that post, it helps a lot, and gives me a solid place to start working from. I give you internet cookies!

I'd already gone through the thread you linked. It seems toyota started moving stuff around and changing wiring '89-'90, and I wanted to make sure I could find info specific to my rig.

Bugs: The EFI relay sounds like a pretty easy place to put a switch, I'll probably do that, the fuel pump, and the ignitor horn honk thing. BTW, I concure with your sig!

 

Lol........oh man, that's hysterical!! Though, I do like the idea of the hidden, backseat anaconda. Surprise, turkey!!! <<<pfffth!!>>>

 

Damn,

Those cookies look tasty, I just called my wife and told her to have some fresh chocolate chip cookies waiting for me when I get home. She did not get any arguments from our four year old son, he is always up for chocolate chip cookies.

What type of switches is everyone using? Assuming that a relay is in the circuit, the switch does not need to carry the full current, and can be relatively small. The classic toggle switch is a bit obvious to "feel" with your hand. Anyone using a push button switch?

I need to get on this, too many people notice my Runner and stop me to ask questions about it. Uh oh, attracting too much attention.

Mike

 

I wired mine to the circuit opening relay. I don't think it's really necessary, mostly for when I go down to the Phoenix area.

 

i wish i could install a trunk monkey. but i wouldn't trust him not to steal my truck either!

the amperage for the relay should be more than the fuse it comes after. so if you cut into a circuit with a 15A fuse, get a relay rated for 20A.

your fog lite relay is most likely exactly the type of relay i mean. you should see a diagram and numbers on the relay to explain the terminals. otherwise, hit the web.

fogs are commonly a 20A fused circuit with a 30A relay, but could also be 15/20. the relay is like $5 at parts store.

dammm man, i could kill for a chocolate chip cookie now. ugh!

 

Subscribed, for when we do a Kill switch on Tippy II!

 

The one thing I should mention about interrupting the FC lead is that a knowledgeable thief can very easily bypass the COR to send power directly to the pump. So interrupting the fuel pump power supply wire downstream of the COR AND check connector is more secure.

Killing the EFI main relay likewise can be easily bypassed. And a kill switch on the starter lead is also easily bypassed - almost all thieves will know how.

Killing the injector power supply is pretty secure - hard to diagnose and hard to bypass - and the wire is more easily accessible since it comes from the ignition switch. Just be sure to camouflage the wire by following bugs' suggestions.

I'll repeat some info from another recent post since it applies here too: it's essential to make good, soldered connections when you interrupt a wire, especially if it is not inside the cab but exposed to the elements. Clean the wires well, solder them, coat in dielectric grease and then apply heat shrink tubing. Obviously you need to get the heat shrink around one of the wires before soldering (!) Here's a decent soldering tutorial: http://www.mmxpress.com/technical/connections.htm

Don't just use barrel (butt) crimp connectors on an exposed wire - they will work at first but wires will soon corrode and there will be enough resistance to mess up your connection.

If you just can't or won't solder, an alternative is to use a butt connector but first liberally coat both wires and fill the connector as much as possible with a good copper anti-seize compound - the best is sold by Permatex: http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ubricant_b.htm



The copper anti-seize conducts electricity, and it will inhibit corrosion. Plus it is the best anti-seize to use on a vehicle: high temp and sensor safe. Good for spark plug threads and any exhaust system bolts/nuts, including the mounting studs & nuts of O2 sensors (be careful because it's very messy stuff - don't get any on the sensor part or on the spark plug insulator).

After crimping the butt connector, wipe off all excess anti-seize, then wrap the area thoroughly with electrical tape, preferably of the same color as the oem as bugs mentioned. Or if you really want to get anal, after wiping the excess anti-seize, coat the area in dielectric grease and then cover with heat shrink tubing, and then cover in electrical tape. Be sure to get a good crimp, tho, because the anti-seize will lubricate the wires, making it easier to pull apart the connection. Soldering is a better way to go.

 

Now you've got me concerned about butt connestors! I used them pretty much uniformly when I installed my stereo, and I'm currently using them to install an air horn. Should I be concerned? I do know how to solder and own a cheapo soldering iron, but soldering is always a pill, and found butt connectors easier. Have to change that, I guess.