Does anyone know how to disable the check engine light on a 94 toyota pickup. Everytime it comes on i loose a ton a power, comes on 5 min after driving, throws the knock sensor code, which I just replaced!

 

IMO, it seems like it might be a better idea to get to the root of the problem Instead of disabling the CEL, especially if you are loosing power.

Are you getting a code 52?

 

Wow. You really don't want to do that. It's like shooting a friend just because they told you a bad joke. Like conrad said, it makes more sense to find out what the problem is.

So if I may rephrase your statement....<<<everytime I lose a ton a power, the check engine light comes on.>>> CEL is your friend! Tell CEL you love it. Thank you for telling me there's a problem that if I don't address it, relatively soon I may have worse problems. If you just replaced the knock sensor, did you replace the wire as well?

 

Um, yeah. Like thook said. Major cart-before-the-horse. The light isn't causing anything - the problem in the knock sensor circuit is. Sorry but you'll need to address that to satisfy the computer, so it will stop retarding your timing in response to not getting a knock sensor signal.

Unfortunately, code 52's a toughie. I'd start with this thread: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...al-fix-211252/

 

Right by all means disconnect the bulb for the CEL at least the light will be out. If the bulb was burnt out. The truck would run better??

As far as solving the reduced power condition . You could treat it like out of sight out of mind. Thinking you have full power.

Maybe you just asked the question wrong??

How can I fix this problem so my CEL stays off?? I bet that was what you meant to say.

 

lol

how dare that lil 'ol light cause all them problems...









yeah sounds like it's time to jumper the test terminals and see what code the ECU is throwing

 

How do I check for a code?


























Kidding, kidding.

 

haha this is funny. next time your engine temp gets too hot, just take the gauge out lol jk

 

i have a similar problem with mine. a little orange light next to my fuel gauge came on and about 30 miles later, i lost all power. is there a way to disable that little orange light? can i just unhook the wire? if i do, will it start? just kiddin dcmbsc. givin ya a hard time

 

lol trying unhooking the battery for awhile may clear the stored codes

 

You guys are terrible...lol. And, why am I laughing....

 

I am about to take it to the toyota dealership and let them fix it. I am so sick of fixing it. I dont even now where to begin to go work on the knock sensor wire.

 

i had the same problem with a 1990 4runner 3.0 a few years ago. the knock sensor wire becomes brittle due to its stupid location. it gets way too hot and cracks, which sends a bad signal, which screws up timing. didnt you say you replaced the knock sensor? did you use the old wire?

 

If you're that tired of working on it and you have the money, then taking it to the dealership or mechanic is probably the best thing. Good luck.

 

Try removing the oil cap to see if it runs any better! Or better yet just put some tape over the light in your dash. Hear no evil see no evil! I actually met a guy that did that since the little light was bugging him. His ford exploder well, exploded a week later! I'm just kidding man it's waaay better to fix the problem like others have mentioned instead of putting a band-aid over it and hoping the problem goes away on it's own. Your right by taking it in to fix it.

 

I wish you good luck with that. I didn't make out so well when my veezy had a rough idle and was failing idle smog. I took it to two different dealers, each time explaining the problem and asking them to DIAGNOSE and then tell me what it needed & how much, before doing the work.

Both dealers - Berkeley Toyota in CA & American Toyota in Albuquerque - did a bunch of work without authorization, much of it unnecessary, charged me a bunch of money, and neither fixed the problem.

In desperation and needing to get it past smog so I could renew registration, I asked around and found an independent shop that had a fantastic reputation (in ABQ). Called and found they had a 2 week waiting list, but when I explained I had a deadline they guy asked me the symptoms over the phone, told me it was either the tps or vafm, probably the tps, and told me where to find the specs. Tested the tps, found that IDL would not ever ground to E2 no matter the position, installed a new tps and voila! Perfect smooth idle and aced smog.

Moral of the story: the dealers often don't know what the h they're doing, but they will always charge you a lot of money and many of them will do unnecessary work that you didn't authorize. I'm not saying there aren't honest competent dealers out there, I'm just saying I haven't found any in the five states I've lived in since I bought the truck in '95.

As mentioned, code 52 is a toughie (I'm assuming that's your code???) If you didn't replace the pigtail, do that, which may fix it. Otherwise you'll need to find a mechanic with a lot of experience with your motor, who is good at diagnosing, and you may need to be prepared to spend a bunch of money, over several times at the shop, to finally get it. I suggest reading all the code 52 threads you can find, here, and over on pirate4x4 & toyotanation, so you know what you're up against.

 

I don't know why this forum has such a problem with code 52. LOL. It's really a simple thing to fix. Read my posts in this thread and follow my advice. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...al-fix-211252/

The knock circuit is very simple. It can only be three things, regardless of all the other internet B.S. you might read. I've been fixing code 52 problems for people for 7 years, for what that's worth.

Code 52 simply means that there is a problem with the KS circuit. That can only be but a few things:

1) the wiring. This is USUALLY the problem.
2) Knock sensor (if you replaced it, did you overtorque it? read the tq spec in the thread I posted above)
3) the ECU, which is rarely the problem.

I'd rewire it with coax cable straight from the sensor to the ECU. Make sure you ground one end of the shielding wire to a GOOD ground, and have a good connection at the ECU and knock sensor end.

 

If you need shielded wire, the 16 ga wire from these guys looks like a good bet: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...shieldwire.php