Aftermarket Radiator
#1
Aftermarket Radiator
Looking into replacing my radiator with a full aluminum style radiator like a mishimoto or koyo radiator but was unable to find an exact fit for my 86' 22re 4runner. Can anyone help me locate one? Closest that I could find is fitted for 83-87' Corolla however the coolant lines arent oriented in the same locations as the stock radiator..........
#2
I think the factory radiator is a beast. Most aftermarket ones will have junk plastic tanks and such. Search "radiator yotatech" in google and you will find a link to the ones guys will use as a replacement.
Question is...whats the reason? Bad rad? running hot?
Question is...whats the reason? Bad rad? running hot?
#6
i ended up with a $119 rockauto plastic/alum radiator, that cools better than the all-metal expensive 3-core turbo radiator that i had before.
made other changes as well, like a motor swap, but it still doesn't make sense... using the same radiator fan and temp sensor for the gauge, that i had before.
made other changes as well, like a motor swap, but it still doesn't make sense... using the same radiator fan and temp sensor for the gauge, that i had before.
#7
i ended up with a $119 rockauto plastic/alum radiator, that cools better than the all-metal expensive 3-core turbo radiator that i had before. made other changes as well, like a motor swap, but it still doesn't make sense... using the same radiator fan and temp sensor for the gauge, that i had before.
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#9
for me it's anecdotal evidence via the factory temp gauge... no question that it reads significantly cooler with the aluminum radiator, but there are too many variables in my situation, to say that aluminum is better than copper/brass.
dimensionally, i have about the biggest frontal area that bolts into these trucks(turbo size)... but it appears to be a thin single-core radiator, with nowhere near the core thickness of the turbo radiator that it replaced.
if this thing holds up, i'll never run a heavy copper/brass radiator again.
dimensionally, i have about the biggest frontal area that bolts into these trucks(turbo size)... but it appears to be a thin single-core radiator, with nowhere near the core thickness of the turbo radiator that it replaced.
if this thing holds up, i'll never run a heavy copper/brass radiator again.
#10
Right, the aluminum radiators can compensate by having thinner fins and tighter spacing.
It would be interesting to install a real gauge and see if it improves in hot weather conditions.
It would be interesting to install a real gauge and see if it improves in hot weather conditions.
#11
fwiw, i think that this is what i have, a CU147:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...576&cc=1272237
it's listed as a turbo application, but it could be for other things as well... csf made the all-metal radiator that i had before.
whatever you do, make sure that the radiator you get works with the fan shroud that you have.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...576&cc=1272237
it's listed as a turbo application, but it could be for other things as well... csf made the all-metal radiator that i had before.
whatever you do, make sure that the radiator you get works with the fan shroud that you have.
#12
I am sure this Spectra is the same as I have been using for several years. I also had a new stock copper/brass radiator from salvage I swapped back and found the temps were running about 10 degrees higher in the summer.
I returned to the aluminum/plastic Spectra radiator and have been using that ever since. I was using an aftermarket temperature gauge for precise measurements. The factory temperature gauge swings up to mid range a little over 100F and stays there until over 220F so that is no help.
I had head gasket problems from burning coolant in the combustion chamber with overheating problems for a long time. I replaced the water pump, thermostat and radiator before finally changing the head gasket. Now I want the engine to run as cool as possible to minimize expansion/contraction extremes and maximize the lifetime of the head gasket.
I was surprised the Spectra radiator cooled better than the factory radiator. I don't think the core is actually the 1 7/8 inch thickness mentioned in the specs and is closer to 1.5 inches. The radiator was a little taller than the factory so I have a little bump in my hood now from the hard knocks.
I returned to the aluminum/plastic Spectra radiator and have been using that ever since. I was using an aftermarket temperature gauge for precise measurements. The factory temperature gauge swings up to mid range a little over 100F and stays there until over 220F so that is no help.
I had head gasket problems from burning coolant in the combustion chamber with overheating problems for a long time. I replaced the water pump, thermostat and radiator before finally changing the head gasket. Now I want the engine to run as cool as possible to minimize expansion/contraction extremes and maximize the lifetime of the head gasket.
I was surprised the Spectra radiator cooled better than the factory radiator. I don't think the core is actually the 1 7/8 inch thickness mentioned in the specs and is closer to 1.5 inches. The radiator was a little taller than the factory so I have a little bump in my hood now from the hard knocks.
Last edited by stock88pickup22re; 10-02-2013 at 05:23 PM. Reason: typo
#14
#15
Spectra CU147 radiator specs vary.
Rockauto says core thickness for the CU147 is 1 7/8 and autopartswarehouse says 1.25 so beware.
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...gs+Best+Seller
Rockauto says core thickness for the CU147 is 1 7/8 and autopartswarehouse says 1.25 so beware.
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...gs+Best+Seller
#16
For my 3vze im bidding on this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/130993333111...S:1123&vxp=mtr
And as far as materials are concerned, oddly enough the specific heat of AU is nearly twice that of carbon based steel. This means that one kg of aluminum takes twice as much energy to heat up as one kg of carbon based steel. The catch is, this is a measure of mass, so when you translate that to volume it makes more sense. Carbon based steel is very nearly 3 times more dense than aluminum, so in the end an equal in volume radiator of aluminum will take LESS energy to heat up, and take LESS energy to cool down. So, everything kept equal, the aluminum material transfers heat quicker.
HOWEVER... this means that it can HOLD less heat at any given time (which in some cases may outweigh the benefits of a quicker heat transfer). SO, depending on the conditions of driving (speed/location/outside temperature) the two materials will yield varying results. It's hard to say which one would be the 'overall' best one to have. I chose aluminum because it doesn't rust, and because it's a pretty good value.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/130993333111...S:1123&vxp=mtr
And as far as materials are concerned, oddly enough the specific heat of AU is nearly twice that of carbon based steel. This means that one kg of aluminum takes twice as much energy to heat up as one kg of carbon based steel. The catch is, this is a measure of mass, so when you translate that to volume it makes more sense. Carbon based steel is very nearly 3 times more dense than aluminum, so in the end an equal in volume radiator of aluminum will take LESS energy to heat up, and take LESS energy to cool down. So, everything kept equal, the aluminum material transfers heat quicker.
HOWEVER... this means that it can HOLD less heat at any given time (which in some cases may outweigh the benefits of a quicker heat transfer). SO, depending on the conditions of driving (speed/location/outside temperature) the two materials will yield varying results. It's hard to say which one would be the 'overall' best one to have. I chose aluminum because it doesn't rust, and because it's a pretty good value.
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