Hello I am new to the board and am amazed at all the good info. So I live on an Island in Alaska with speeds rarely over 50 and only 40miles of road. I picked up a 94 4 runner 3.0 5spd manual last week talked the guy down to $750 cash good deal with new tires. The interior is excellent and there is 203K miles on her. Any way I test drove and noticed the check engine light but bought anyway cause the price was right.

I jumped the diagnostics block to get a code 14 and 52. I realize the code 52 is a pretty big job. My question is the rig is running pretty good idle is a little sloppy at 800RPM and yes she is sluggish when I hit a hill. But will it hurt anything if I continue to drive as is I can handle the slower speeds and not so great gas mileage. I plan to sell in a year when I move and don't want to put a lot of money into another rig.

Thanks for the help!!

 

First off welcome. This has been covered quite a few times before. I know from having the same issue.

I would start with some inexpensive upgrades such as spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, etc. I had a similar check engine light prompted by old spark plug wires. This shouldn't be more than $50 total, and it could possibly save you serious time and money on the knock sensor job. I still bought the replacement pigtail wire though just in case.

 

For $750.00 (203K? Miles) And your sure your going to sell it in a year, I would do the very minimum and drive the hell out of it.

 

Thanks for the respose guys yea I am defiantly selling in a year as it costs a lot to ship extra cars when I move. I am in the coast guard here. It is running okay as long as no thinks engine will be severely damaged in the next year I will just leave alone might try some wires and plugs though. I know it should have more power being a V6

 

Also the PAIR REED valve was missing all but 1 loose screw she was making a horrible sound replaced screws worked like a champ

 

Actually they don't have the power you think, that's why the phrase(3. slow)
Keep your fluid levels to spec and most important don't let the coolant level get low
Also, a salute for your service.

 

When you get 52, the computer retards the engine. Since it can't tell if it is knocking or not, it's trying to save the engine.

Driving around with the ignition retarded won't hurt the engine, it will just wreck performance (also emissions, but for $750 you can't worry about that). And you're happy with where you're at. As much as it probably pains a guy who correctly diagnosed and repaired the PAIR, it's too tough to repair for the benefit you'll get.

Code 14 is probably a stored code (since it is otherwise running). If so, you can clear it by pulling the EFI fuse for 30 seconds. That won't help you much; your CEL will still be on from the unresolved code 52.

 

Again, I would try some new wires. Mine weren't noticeably bad, but the proof was when I swapped them for new ones from Oreilly. The 3.slo is reliable, but not know for its power. As long as your head gasket isn't an issue it should serve you well.

 

Could that possibly affect a code 52?

The most common cause of a code 52, but, alas, a big-damn-deal. Just to get to it you have to remove the upper (plenum) and lower intake manifolds, which means you have to remove all the fuel-rail components. If you're replacing the head gaskets it's worth replacing just on spec, but probably not otherwise. Once you start removing those components you're likely to break something, and a big job will just turn into a slightly bigger job.

 

I'm fairly certain a few years ago the code ran as a 52, which is why I bought the pigtail thinking I would need to do the job. But again, it had original spark plug wires. Once I switched them, the check engine light stopped and hasn't been on since. This has been almost two years.

 

I just made this repair, had this same set of two codes come up on mine when I acquired it. I replaced the igniter even though I really didn't need to(since it was still running and driving), and I definitely noticed an increase in power. The new OEM igniter was not the same part no. as the one that came out and may be an upgrade? For the knock sensor, somewhere on here there is a thread about relocating the knock sensor to the lift hook. I really didn't want to tear down the top side to repair this and then have this same problem again, so I did the relocate. Also, I remember reading somewhere that it is almost never the knock sensor going bad, just the wire harness. Well once I got into it I found that my wire harness going to the knock sensor was completely severed. With the cost of the new wire harness from Toyota, it was about $15 to fix this. I would def do it. The power loss from the code 52 timing retard is awful to drive with. If you just get a new knock sensor and harness, and don't even bother tearing it down, this could be repaired in prob 20 min or so.

 

Since you did this recently, others might benefit from a write up if you are willing to. I know I'd be interested.