Long story short, my 22re engine blew up with only 167,000 miles on it within the first week of buying it, so I had to replace the engine. I don't know anything at all about vehicles, but somehow I managed to put the engine in (lots of forum reading, YouTube videos, labels all over every hose, etc) and get it to start! I was really proud of myself!

Well, I had to spray ether in it to make it start, but when I replaced the fuel pump, it started right up and ran, but it was rough. Whenever you touch the gas, it bogs down and dies & if left to run, it would eventually die by itself anyway.

I hired a mechanic to fix it who I've known for 10 years, and is supposed to be an expert, but he couldn't even figure it out, and I soon realized he just seemed to be stringing me along with no results, so that was basically a waste of money.

So I just kept reading and decided to replace the Throttle Position Sensor because when you disconnect the plug leading to it, it would run for a bit longer and idle higher. So I replaced it, tried to set it in various positions to see if that made a difference, but it still does the same thing. When I disconnect the wire leading to the Mass Air Flow (I think that's what it is), it will stay running but as soon as you touch the gas, it dies. Could it be the MAF that needs replaced?

Does anyone have any suggestions? If I can't get this truck running soon, I'm not going to have a place to live. My savings are running dry and my internet-based home business yields a measly 200-300 dollars a month, which is pretty pathetic. I'm between a rock and a hard place because I need a vehicle running badly, but I don't want to sell this truck because I'll just end up with another lemon, I'm afraid. I tend to be good at getting ripped off when it comes to cars, because I'm too much of an idiot novice to know the difference.

Thanks a million for reading my post. I've been reading these forums for a while now, since I needed lots of information to put my engine in, and this really is a great community with a goldmine of information for novices like me.

 

check the fuel pump? lines?

 

Yes, I actually replaced it twice. The first one I bought was out of a junkyard & I thought it was bad, so I bought a new one from eBay and put it in; no difference. However, before I replaced the fuel pump, I had to actually spray ether into it to get it started. After replacing the fuel pump, it will start by itself, but it just runs rough and won't stay running until I disconnect that plug leading to the MAF.

And yes, there was a break in the gas line. I forgot to mention in that first post. It was spewing heavily and I thought that maybe it was a pressure issue. It's repaired now though, and there is no leak anywhere.

 

It sounds like your Air Flow Meter (not MAFS) might be bad. Get yourself a Chilton's or Haynes repair manual (if you don't already have one) and follow the directions for checking it with a meter. Also follow it to adjust your TPS. Adjust your timing to 5* BTDC with a timing light and idle speed to 750 RPM. check for vacuum leaks with an UNLIT propane torch (move the torch tip around the connections for vacuum lines and if there's a leak the engine will idle up when the propane hits the system). You can also do this with another piece of vacuum hose. Just put one end to your ear and move the other end around the vacuum line connections on the engine. You'll hear it if there's a leak. Make sure all of your vacuum lines are hooked up correctly.

Don't guess on any of the settings on anything. They all feed info back to the computer and all affect each other. As you're adjusting them it will probably run like crap, but once you know you've got one setting right move on to the next. Once you've gone through them all go back and do it again as the first ones will have probably changed again. Keep doing it until they're all where they need to be without anymore adjustments.

If there are any tools you need and don't have, check with Advance Auto, AutoZone or someone like that that will do a tool rental/loaner program so you don't have to buy them.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/index.shtml

Don't spray ether or starting fluid into it. That's alcohol. It burns hotter than regular gas and these engines don't like it.

 

sound like a vacuum leak! allot of Toyota engines rely on there vacuum lines to have a strong flow of air, and if there one small crack in the line the engine will run for 2 seconds and shut off, or will run like you are explaining. not really a fuel issue i think. double check all lines with PVC pipe to your ear to listen for a hissing, or a spray bottle of water to spray on the lines. and normally if that water sucks into the crack the idle will change, letting you know there is a leak!

 

Thank you for the quick responses! I will check everything you mentioned, including the hoses. The vacuum hoses were one of the hardest things to get right, so it is probable that I have a leak or bad connection somewhere. The good thing is, since I have an extra (bad) engine, I should have plenty of extra hoses to replace any defective ones.

Thank you so much for the responses! It means a lot to me! I will continue to update this thread, because I always hated reading a thread with a similar problem, then seeing that the OP got a response to his problem, but never posted back to let people know if that fixed it or not. I won't leave ya'll hangin'.

 

Alldatadiy.com has alot of informative information in regards to symptom related diagnostics. Maybe it will help you with the mainenance of your new engine! Good luck!

 

I tried using this discount but the website says that it has expired.

 

Ok, so I checked the vacuum lines last night and again this morning and I replaced a suspect hose that I thought may be leaking, to no avail. It just sounded different than the other hoses, but I think it's just normal for it because I tried 2 different hoses from the original hose that was already on there and it made no difference in the sound or way the engine ran. I checked and sprayed my manifold & vacuum hoses to make sure everything was sealed properly. No higher idle to indicate there is a problem or leak anywhere. My grandfather is going to test the Air Flow Meter for me with an ohmmeter this afternoon. I will try to update tonight (if not, I'll do it tomorrow) after we check the Air Flow Meter, to let you all know if that is what it was.

Thanks so much guys. You guys rock!

 

Just my two cents on the air flow meter. On another project I acidently pulled the black wire harness out thinking it was a plug and broke a few solder points, took me a few days to find another and during that time the truck would start for about 3 seconds then die. Little did I know if the ecu doesn't see the mas air flow meter the computer would kill the engine. Also keep in mind the denso part number on the meter needs to match the one you have for the engine. I pulled one off a camery that looked exactly the same however the ecu didn't like it. Keep in mind though for the 3 or 4 seconds it did run it ran smooth, no sputtering coughing.

 

Another thing you may try is to disconnect the air filter box and open the air gate in the afm with the key "on" and listen for your fuel pump (humming sound). Also make sure there are no cracks or holes on your air intake plenum (the plastic tubes that run from the airbox to the intake manifold. I feel your pain with the electronics on these things. I've had an 88 4runner with a 22re and am currently helping a buddy work on an 88 3vze. Its a nightmare, I truely value the simplicity of my weber. Good luck

 

I wasn't able to get around to testing the AFM until today. We left the battery hooked up and tested for resistance between the ground and each one of the individual prongs on the AFM, and we got nothin'.

Testing the 3rd and 4th prong with an ohmmeter (as per the instructions in the manual), with the negative battery cable still hooked up, we get a reading of 29 which is within range. HOWEVER, that is not the test that the book recommends. The book says to disconnect the cable and then test it. When we follow the instructions and disconnect the cable, we get nothing again between the 3rd and 4th prong, which leads me to believe it is bad. Does it sound like I found my defective part?

 

Bump. Can anyone recommend a place to buy an AFM?

 

partsgeek.com has them for $160. I don't know about the brand or quality or anything, but I know you're on a tight budget and that's the cheapest I could find online. You can probably find one at a junkyard somewhere for less.

 

AUGUST 15, 2012 UPDATE:

I replaced the Air Flow Meter with a 90 dollar used one on eBay and that seemed to do the trick! I also used some fuel injector cleaner in the fuel and that provided a noticeable improvement as well. It just kept getting smoother and smoother running the longer I let it run after that. Now, I'm just finishing up some nickle/dime-type things and getting it roadworthy.

Thank you all so much!

 

That is awesome! If you ever need anymore assistance, the code has been updated and you are more than welcome to enjoy it!

 

Sounds basically like my '86 22re. I can however at times cruise through town at lower speeds and it'll be fine then it dies instantly. I'll let it set a min and it will drive fine. I had a rusty tank but its all clean now, and it still dies. Now its dying like yours is, starts and runs a second and dead, hit the pedal and dead! I was thinking fuel but now I havent a clue. Was your tank or fuel filter nasty?

 

Good to here!

Need to start another thread titled "curse of the air flow meter"

 

I think the news I got is going to be very helpful I took the intake off because I could hear a leaking of air. replaced washers injectors stopped the leaking but still the same.my gas lines are hanging down so I checked and found kinked lines so in the morning gona try that thanks