How about power windows for a 2nd gen. Drivers goes down the rest of the don't... I have removed the panels check the cables, check the connections and all fuses are good.

 

quick dumb question, is the window lock button pressed down?

 

Had the same problem. Tried lubing myself, helped very little. Shop that did my tinting went through 'em, works like a charm! Not sure what he did, but he said they were BAD...

 

Not a quick dumb question at all but not the window lock is not on. I was hoping someone here has had the same problem and fixed it themselves.

 

I don't have the exact same issue, but maybe can help. My truck requires me to have the drivers door closed before I can put any of the other 3 windows up or down. I don't know if this is design or wear/tear.

 

My 1994 4Runner just started doing this same thing yesterday. Rear window will go up & down using the key from outside but won't when using the console switch. The driver's side window switch works, but the other interior windows don't.

Looks like another project.... Wierd

 

my 93 did that with a passagers window.i took the switch out of the door and took it apart and there lil metal piece's that were dirty.so i just sanded them down a lil and it work,every now and then it'll act up but then start working later.is it just the switch on the drivers door not working or is the passager door switch not working also?

 

I just got my 4Runner, so I've been doing some work on it, and I may have done something like pushed a switch without realizing it. I think I tried the passenger door switch, but I can't remember for sure. If I tried it, it didn't work. I'll also double check the lockout switch tonight.

Thanks for the tip. I'll add that to the long list of things on my to do list.

This forum is a great source of info. I've saved a lot of dough by doing the work myself, using experiences that have been shared here.

 

Isnt there a master switch in the drivers side that controls them all??

I would pull the door apart and start cleaning the connections and stuff... Look for corroded wires, check for voltage at the switches/motors...

 

So I got home from work and scoped out the situation a bit further.

Apparently I pressed the window lockout button while working on the dash and didn't realize it. I thought (assumed) it would be like every other power window equipped vehicle I've ever driven where the lock out button locked out everyone's controls but the driver's. It isn't.

I pushed the button and everything worked. I must say that's the easiest thing I've fixed so far.

I guess I'm so conditioned to everything being a pain to do (swap out motor, water pump, T-belt, align tranny, fuel filter, plug wires (one broke after install), radiator, heater hoses, a/c blower fan motor, new stereo, etc.) that I just added this one more thing list without expecting it was something simple.

Next on the list is CV axles and the oil leak....

I'm gonna have a brand new 1994 4Runner by the time I'm done.

 

I have had problems with all of my power windows. Slow up / Slow down and getting stuck up or down. The last time I had the rear passenger problem I took the switch off the rear drivers side and plugged it into the rear passenger and it it worked. Since then I have replaced all of my switches and that resolved my issues.

 

1990 4Runner - Does anyone know if the window switches are connected together? Drivers Frnt Pass to Frnt Pass....
So, if Drivers side switch is bad, it affects the switch on the say Front Pass Door too? If one is bad they both act bad?


Not like a 3 way house light switch... One is bad other works?


Cargo Window stuck up. key & switch will not work... Im tired of crawling thru side doors!




1990 4Runner V6 5 Spd SR5
2003 4Runner V8 Auto Limited

 

In my 93 4Runner the right rear passenger window will not go down. I have verified that the switch is good by swapping it with the one on the left. I checked the motor by running power directly to the two terminals on the motor and it worked as it should (up and down). While the door panel was off, I ran the window down and left it down. I then hooked up everything and was able to raise the window using the window control switch. But the window will not go down using the switch. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

 

i just bought a 95 4runner. All the windows work but the front driver side. The others are slow, but work. Seeing how the master control switch is $300+ new and yotas are rare in the few surrounding junkyards, does anyone have suggestions on a course of action?

 

First pull off the door panel and make sure the motor works!!

Then after you have tested the motor made sure the regulator is not rusted to bad

With the switch depressed see if you have battery voltage to the motor remember the door switch needs to have been closed .

If not could just be the switch contacts are worn from use.

Not knowing your skill level I have no idea if your comfortable pulling the switch apart and rebuilding the contacts with solder.

I have done quite a few over the years.

 

As of now, I have the panel off both driver side doors. When I bought the truck the guy said the front driver door just needed a new motor. After buying a new motor and seeing that it would roll only one way out of the regulator, I never reassembled it. When the new motor is hooked up straight to a battery and polarity is reversed, it will roll both ways so it cant be the motor. I hooked up the oem motor I thought was shot and it did the same thing... rookie mistake not just testing the original motor. So my thinking was the master switch was bad due to the auto down function... I bought one used in good condition and its on the way to my house... but just today the rear driver rolled down and wouldn't roll back up. Once out of the regulator, its once again only rolling in one direction (down). I took the switch apart since theyre relatively simple looking, and I cant see anything wrong. Theres no corrosion and what little dust build up there was I wiped down and it still doesn't work. Mind you none of my regulators are rusty. So my question is, are both switches bad and I just cant tell or is there something more gone bad?

 

Got multimeter? No? No excuse for that: http://www.harborfreight.com/7-funct...ter-90899.html

You have an electrical problem. You need to use a multimeter to find it. Looking for corrosion and dust isn't a complete waste of time, but almost. Use the manual page http://web.archive.org/web/201102052.../7powerwin.pdf and your multimeter to see if the switches are moving current as they should.

If you've gone through the diagnostics and you're certain you have a bad switch, THEN you can order one. Not before. (Seriously; you already made the "rookie mistake" and you're doing it again?)

 

I havent made a second mistake. If you read the post, i bought another motor relying in what the previous owner said... so to avoid that mistake i tested this motor and it worked.... so youre right i should see if im getting current with a multimeter. But you dont have to come across condisending. Ive never had to piss around with wiring and this is my 3rd vehicle.