Hi,
This is my first post, and I'm a total noob when it comes to cars. I started lurking around this forum for some time now to get a handle on my 4runner's problems.

My car shakes pretty bad, plus I got a code showing my 5th cylinder is misfiring, With the advice from this forum I checked the coils and spark plugs, which appear okay, but noticed that the resistance to the fuel injector for the 5th cylinder was around 44 ohms. I read that it should range between 13-16 ohms. So I assume this is causing the misfiring. Am I accurate in this assessment? I figured the fuel injector is bad and needs to be replaced. My second question is how do I replace a bad fuel injector? Do they just pop out? I couldn't find this information.

Thanks for the help.
Blackout138

 

hey,
not really sure bro never had to change one...Do you have a haynes manual as they are pretty helpful for the most part?
Also, have you tried running some injector cleaner through the tank...not sure if that ould help with the resistance levels though...?

 

Replacing a fuel injector probably isn't somethins a self confessed 'total noob' should be trying.

But if you want to do it you have to remove the upper intake manifold, after disconnecting all the hoses and wires. Then remove the fuel rails, and then the injectors will pull out.

There are a few manuals online that have links in the forum somewhere. I don't have them here at work but I'll post them tonight if no one else has.

 

Fuel injectors going bad are very rare on 5vz's,that being said.Don't be fooled with an ohms check..Its usually specified certain ohms,at certain temp...Now if you said you were reading 400ohms,that's another story.

also you will see sighns in that plug that the cylinder is lean...how does that plug look compared to the others?Have you swaped coil packs and plugs (swap both,because plug will be effected by both a bad injector or coil)yet?..5 to 3 and miss stays at 5?..after all of that it stays at 5 and you are fairly certain compression is good,I would procede with an injector swap,you are lucky its on the odd side...

I would get 8 "fuel rail banjo gaskets" from dealer..they are crushable copper washers,a buck or 2 each..

Remove intake boot,throttle body,wiring harness for that side,or atleast get it loose,remove the 2 big bolts at the front and rear of fuel rail(17mm?)...they will be attached to a crossover pipe that goes to the other side fuel rail,leave the crossover pipes where they are at,***have a rag over the first bolt you take loose,fuel will spray for a sec***...the "banjo gaskest" might fall,so be ready for that...once bolts are out,you can remove the rail retaing bolts(10mm) and spacers..lift the fuel rail out....now you can swap injectors,they are held in with an o-ring,just pull them out of the rail.....move injector 5 to 3 or 1,...Use a little vasoline on the injector o-ring,just so it slides back inside the fuel rail without twisting/binding...

Time to reinstall,put all 3 injectors in rail,install rail,snug retaining bolts and spacers for rail (10mm),make surespacers are seated properly,make sure injectors can "turn",they should feel snug,but should still turn in their seats,if not remove and inspect injector upper-lower seats...Ok,now replace "banjo gaskest" 2 for each "banjo bolt"and tighten rail bolts (17mm?)..once snug 1/4 turn past snug is enough to crush gasket ***do not overtighten***

Reinstall rest of componants...might take a sec or 2 on initial start-up to build fuel pressure,once it does start,check for fuel leaks...next is once it starts missing...pull codes....should have moved to the bad injector cylinder...right?...If so..get an injector and swap it out,hence the 8 gaskets..usually the dealer will only have a couple instock so at 1-2$ each might as well have all you will need at hand..

You will know for sure if its an injector problem,I would rather take an hour or two testing and swaping ,and know for sure whats going on before I spend a couple hundred for nothing...its up to you

 

You REALLY dont need to reassemble the entire intake, vacuum hoses, throttle body etc. just to test an injector. If it is bad you have to go through the entire process again. Just take them out once, have them flow tested and balanced, and then reinstall if they all pass. That will save lots of time

 

Don't ever recommend a Haynes manual, they suck. Especially when a FSM is free online http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=59089

 

Im having the same issue only in the 4th cylinder on the driver side. I have swapped coil packs, swapped plugs (which are all brand new) and put in new wires as well. Im still getting the misfire in cylinder 4. At this point Im thinking its the fuel injector. Ive called around and parts + labor is around 500-600 bucks!! I definitely want to do it myself because thats just outrageous, Im just worried about screwing things up even more. Is this a fairly easy job? Where can I find the best instructions and possibly pictures to follow along?

Thanks in advance!

 

Actually found a link with step by step instructions and great pics!
http://mattshowto.blogspot.com/2009/...44127321246682

 

I had this happen once. Ran the fuel injector cleaner through. It helped but not enough. The code should a cylinder misfire in #3 . So we swapped out that injector with one from cylinder #6 and the code popped up again in #6. I replaced that injector, problem solved. Being 20 or so years old I'm surprised that it didn't happen sooner

 

I am current;y going through the EXACT same issue...#4...I replaced all plugs and wires, one coil, swapped it around and decided it was injector. Took it to the shop near me....$1000 to diagnose, replace the plugs and wires AGAIN even though I told them I just did it, and one injector and new intake manifold gasket plus labor!!! If you take somewhere, make sure they listen when you tell them what you have done..we will be having a discussion when I go to pick up tonight.