Reminder: It's time to lube your spare tire lowering mechanism
04-24-2007, 08:43 AM
#41
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Chicken Lover I noticed your exhaust looks like its rubbing up against the spare tie holder do you have any heat issues with that?.
My 1994 4runner came with the smaller tires and steal wheels so I had to buy those brackets that keep the 31x10.5 tire from shifting cause I keep melting spare tire. Trying to see how others have dealt with heat issue.
Thanks
My 1994 4runner came with the smaller tires and steal wheels so I had to buy those brackets that keep the 31x10.5 tire from shifting cause I keep melting spare tire. Trying to see how others have dealt with heat issue.
Thanks
04-24-2007, 10:52 AM
#42
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I don't really worry about this anymore... mine was siezed when I got it and I was planning to replace it with a new mechanism when I did my body work this year but I lost my spare sometime this winter... one day it was there and when I looked a week later it was gone... hope it did'nt kill anyone... when I put mu new one in I will be lubing it regularly and also welding a socket to it so I can use a long extension and ratchet to lower and raise the thing...even though I still have a almost complete kit I don't like how all the extensions go together...
04-24-2007, 11:35 AM
#43
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Chicken Lover I noticed your exhaust looks like its rubbing up against the spare tie holder do you have any heat issues with that?.
My 1994 4runner came with the smaller tires and steal wheels so I had to buy those brackets that keep the 31x10.5 tire from shifting cause I keep melting spare tire. Trying to see how others have dealt with heat issue.
Thanks
My 1994 4runner came with the smaller tires and steal wheels so I had to buy those brackets that keep the 31x10.5 tire from shifting cause I keep melting spare tire. Trying to see how others have dealt with heat issue.
Thanks
05-26-2008, 06:24 AM
#45
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LOL, I wish. A one foot long piece of tubing isn't going to reach from the bumper to the lowering mechanism. I'm missing a piece at least two feet long with a "T" on the end or an "L" at least.
It's no big deal now; I fabbed a tool out of a fireplace poker stand. The rod that holds the top to the bottom of the stand was just the right length; after a few minutes with a grinder & a vice I made a tool to connect to the pieces I do have & I lowered the tire just fine. Took about ten minutes.
I'd still like to see a picture of a stock tool if anyone could post one.
It's no big deal now; I fabbed a tool out of a fireplace poker stand. The rod that holds the top to the bottom of the stand was just the right length; after a few minutes with a grinder & a vice I made a tool to connect to the pieces I do have & I lowered the tire just fine. Took about ten minutes.
I'd still like to see a picture of a stock tool if anyone could post one.
Check local tire shops for these parts. Often they have them sitting around left from customers cars and will give you one for free. Just an idea
05-26-2008, 08:12 AM
#46
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Well I don't have to worry about this anymore cuz I don't carry a spare under there anymore. I just removed my old 265 spare, had to take the bumper cover off to get to the winch........My 285 won't fit 
I think I'm gonna remove it today, anybody in need of a new spare tire winch??
I think I'm gonna remove it today, anybody in need of a new spare tire winch??
09-25-2008, 09:28 AM
#49
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I do mine every spring and fall, I am guessing that most of us that keep up on it live in areas of high rust, and have had to cut one off in the past. It takes only a few minutes at most and saves huge headaches later.
12-04-2011, 06:05 AM
#51
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The best thing I've found to inhibit rust on the such things is CorrosionX HD. I recommend spraying the gear mechanism with a good rust inhibiting oil before applying the CorrosionX. Yes I do this annually also.
I've been applying Corrosionx to the underbody frame, fenders, bumpers, wheels, ect. annually for several years and it is the best thing I've ever found to inhibit or slow rust progression,
Once the rust starts on such things paints like rustoleum actually do more harm than good unless all of the rust is removed completely and a high zinc content primer is applied first.
I've been applying Corrosionx to the underbody frame, fenders, bumpers, wheels, ect. annually for several years and it is the best thing I've ever found to inhibit or slow rust progression,
Once the rust starts on such things paints like rustoleum actually do more harm than good unless all of the rust is removed completely and a high zinc content primer is applied first.
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