yeehaw1

Got my wisdom teeth removed last week, and haven't got anything done to the toy.

yeehaw1

finally get over the wisdom teeth, and the humidity spikes, 94 now feels like 104... till this humidity goes down some, i prolly won't be gettin much done to the buggy.

truckmike26

You should de-badge your truck.

BigSwole

Trust me I know about the humidity. here in south Ga it was 74 degrees with 99% humidity which made it feel like 94 degrees at 730 in the morning. Heat index has been 115 past coupl days.

on top of that the gnats have been on the attck lately.

yeehaw1

What badges are you talking about? I didn't see any on the 89' cab i'm gonna use except the one for the grille.

you ain't kiddin! it's felt like it's over 100 here for the past 2 weeks straight! The gnats ain't been bad round here yet, but the mosquitoes and the fleas have been awful!

yeehaw1

I finally got something done today...



next thing i have to do is take the gas tank loose, and undo all the wiring running along the frame toward the back, and wait on it to cool down enough for Dad to weld the plates, and crossmember on, then re-do the wiring, and put the gas tank back on.

After that, i need to cut the front suspension loose, and start on the Sas, think i'll leave the cab and bed off till Dad finishes all the welding.

yeehaw1

Well it's been 4 days shy of a month, and due to some unforseen circumstances, I haven't had time to get anything else done to this truck. Hoping to get time tommorow to undo the wiring and take the gas tank out. I'm also goin to set the trans, t-case, and driveshaft's out for the time being as well.

I found a place that I think can cut the plates for my frame to the exact size and shape I need. If I get time next week I'm planning on stoping in and getting that stuff, so hopefully this build will be moving right along in the next couple weeks.

truckmike26

How much do you want for your IFS front axle, hub to hub?

jbuck07

i seen that you eventually want to put a cold air intake in there.... is that good to have if you wanna do some muddin? im not being a smart a$$, i would like to put one in mine but dont know if its a smart idea since i do go thru a little bit of mud here and there...

Black_1985_SR5

iTrader: (1)

Good old air bypass vakve will help with any mud or water that gets in to an extent

xxxtreme22r

The AEM air bypass valve isn't gonna help with mud. It's still gonna get fubarred with mud. Ask me how mud covered the engine bay gets.
Relocate the intake filter into the cab or build yourself a snorkel.

jbuck07

good info. if i had a snorkel, could i use that on my everyday driver? what would happen if water got in there on a rainy day or somethin? or is a snorkel strickly for recreational use?

yeehaw1

Well I've had this project on hold for awhile, been busy workin nights, and some life woes, but things look like they're gonna shape up a lil, so I'm gonna try to get back at this... I'm considerin havin dad weld the frame (still ain't got around to it) then just slappin the motor, body, and cage bed on with a pipe front, and plate rear bumper on the Ifs so I can drive it. But then again, I've got most everything to Sas... Except high steer, a lift that don't involve blocks, and time/hangers/shackles/welding ability...

Regardless, one of these days it'll be sas'd, and when that day comes, I'll get these (if I don't find some nicer and cheaper) rims http://m.summitracing.com/parts/USW-97-6960
And some surplus military 37x?x16.5 tires (like to find a set of surplus rims to fit toy axles) heck I may even try and get some runflats and throw on those rims...

yeehaw1

This trucks still settin in the back lot waiting for its day, but i'm kind of at a standstill on my Fords, and Yeehaw was just retired as my DD, so i'm kinda getting back to working on my toys... Found a 87, Mercedes 300 Dsl car, with a diesel of some sort for a decent price about 30 minutes away, so I'm gonna go look at it, and may just be looking at a diesel setup...

truckmike26

You're one of the better-minded people on here so a diesel set-up is child's play for you.

yeehaw1

Here's hopin, I gotta find an adapter for a 0M603 before I even begin to complate it (that's the motor the guy says it has in it, I haven't had a chance to go inspect it for myself yet...

truckmike26

It's a really unique idea. With the help of xxxtreme, you could have things sorted out in no time. No need to complate anything too much.

yeehaw1

That's why I liked it, But for the time being it's gonna have to wait... I started a new job last week, and it's looking like a six day a week thing for a while... But the good thing about that is, I'll have some $$$ to order parts again
I'm still planing on picking up the car and motor after I get the extra cash.



Anyway onto info for the swap, which I have got most of thanks to PowerstrokeJoe's OM617 swap thread

Thanks to Transplanter for this:
Om617 is 29 3/4" , om602 is 27" and om603 is 30 3/4" long, add 2" for the fans. I would go with the 602 but they are hard to find.

My info:
By comparision the 22re in my 87' is approximatley 25" (measured about 2 weeks ago with a Iphone for a light)
The engine bay in my 87' is approximatley 29" measured with the Iphone the same night.

PowerstrokeJoe contributed:
The engine bay in my truck is 31 1/2 inches from fire wall to the core support. (his is the 89-95 bodystyle)
The 617 is 18 inches wide give or take. It was hard to eyeball the tape measure in the dark.

PowerstrokeJoe also reminded me of this:
I realize the 603 is close and you have one located, but be very careful of the 60X series. They are good engines but had some flaws. They were known for cracking heads so check the casting number on this one. If it is an earlier one I would walk. Since 10/87 the bolt flutes on the exhaust side have been reinforced and the recesses (hollows) between the coolant ducts on the outlet side filled to prevent cracks in the cylinder head water jacket."

This appears to be a #15 head (although a casting number change is not mentioned) which would pre-date the next change:

"The reinforcements at the valve tappet guides and exhaust passages have been reinforced. Modified cylinder heads can be recognized by the cast no. on the intake side, see table."

Engine ----- previous cast no. --- new cast no. --- Production Breakpoint
__________________________________________________ _____

602 ---------- 602 016 03 01 --- 602 016 07 01 --- 09/89

602 Turbo----- 602 016 06 01 --- 602 016 08 01 --- 07/89

603 ---------- 603 016 10 01 --- 603 016 16 01 --- 10/89

603 Turbo----- 603 016 15 01 --- 603 016 17 01 --- 07/89

Also check to be sure the trap oxidizer has been removed because that can cause a myriad of issues as well. The 603 is definitely a lot more refined than the 617 though. Just be careful when you go to look at it. Its going to ne a darn tight fit to get in there. Be aware too that the mechanical fan is probably your slimmest option aside from the sidewinder.

So there it is, the swap isn't really practical, or a good idea... But I still want to try it. looks like I'm gonna need another hood, 2 more fenders and some metal

If/when/If? I get around to doing this swap It looks like the cab will need to be moved back around 4", the core support will need to be cut loose, and the inner fenders extended.
Then I'll have to get creative, cuting 2 hoods up to make 1 long one, and 4 fenders to make 2. I'll likely have to shorten my cage bed, And I have yet to see where that's going to put my shifters (though I bet it's under the dash )
I'll keep ya posted, in the meantime

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Glad you posted the info about the diesel swap. It is one I am looking at a long ways down the road for mileage. Will be keeping this in mind. Hoping to come across a good deal on a Mercdes as well.

yeehaw1

Not a problem Terry, I wish I had bought the Mercedes with the 0m603 when I had the chance (it's still for sale, but my funds for it are gone atm), but this gives me time to look for a 617...

I wish you luck with your swap, if ya need anything let me know and I'll dig around and see what I can learn for ya