Winch

Hi guys

Just recently, I started a thread about my diesel swap and thought that I would also share here about my project. I had a tough time to get the pictures to work, and finally got it to work on the second page, so please bare with me. For those who are interested, you can read all about the progress here: http://www.toyotadiesel.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=10345

If you have any questions, comments or critique, please let me know. Cheers!

ESQ

How did you locate the 1KD? I'm looking for one from a 3rd gen Hilux Surf to swap into my 3rd gen 4runner.

Winch

I got it from Am in Thailand. It's a 2009 and I paid $2300 plus shipping. He also sell used and new Hilux parts. Great guy. Tell him Gary sent you and I'm sure he would get you a great engine:
http://www.alibaba.com/member/th102384845.html

RBX

Winch,
Any updates? I read your whole thread on diseltoyotas but I can post a reply yet.
Ever get that beast running?your rig is killer.

Winch

Hey thanks a lot. Yes, here is an update:
I ran into a snag and couldn't get the engine fired up, so I got busy with other stuff and didn't spend much time on the truck, but finally figured out why she wouldn't fire up. All of the information I got indicated that the fuel lines had to be hooked up in this configuration when looking at the back of the injection pump:
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21

The other day, I did a spill test by loosening the #1 fuel line from the injector, putting the #1 piston at TDC and turning the crank by hand and I noticed that it was squirting out diesel when that piston was 180 degrees from TDC, in other words at bottom dead center. I then proceeded and also noticed that the #4 injector was getting diesel when piston #1 was at TDC. So I realized the mistake and advanced the fuel lines by two spots so the configuration was:
12
34

And she finally fired up. I'm pretty sure now that I have the #1 and #4 fuel lines hooked up to the right injectors, but not 100% sure about 2 and 3. Before I switched the lines I noticed the following during the spill test:
# 1 was getting fuel when piston #1 was a few degrees before 180 degrees from TDC
# 3 was a few degrees before 270
# 4 was a few degrees before 0, and
# 2 was a few degrees before 90

Here is a short vid of her running while I'm revving it:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RIc0z...e_gdata_player

RBX

Video no worky.
I bet that was a great feeling.
Once you get her out for a road test I'd like to here your thoughts going from the 3.4 to the 1kd-ftv.
I don't recall if you said in your thread.
I have an 88 4runner with an r150f, and the bell housing mounts the starter and clutch fork on the passenger side. Is it necessary to run it on the driver side?
Also, what size tires and gears you running.

Winch

Yes, I was stoked. Certainly motivated me to get her on the road as soon as I can. On my R150F for the Tacoma, the starter was pass side and the clutch was driverside, but this bellhousing/ input shaft combo wouldn't work on the 1KD because of the input shaft length. As such, I basically swapped out the bellhousing/ input shaft from a R151F tranny into my R150F because I wanted to keep the 1st gear ratio (most people however prefer the lower 1st gear of the R151), which now puts both the starter and clutch on the driverside. I don't think it matters much which side either one of them are - the more important issue is that the input shaft and bellhousing is the correct length.

I have 37" tires and 4.88 gears so at 70 mph I will be doing about 2750 rpm, which is just one "notch" up from where stock would be, so probably ideal.

RBX

Are you saying 3.4 stock rpm? I would think hwy driving tpm should be lower? Isn't the redline 4400rpm?
One more. I know you went mechanical ip on your build, and you ended up using the 1hd-t injectors iirc. However, I don't think I will have the funds or know how to make that work. Is keeping the stock ecu ip that daunting? I know you said you went mechanical for reliability reasons.
I did sent an email to am in Thailand, and mentioned you.
Thanks for taking the time to answer all my questions.

Winch

Nope, I was referring to the 1KD's RPM. I have driven these before and their stock RPM comes in at around 2500 at 70 mph, so I will be a tad higher which I don't think will matter. If anything it should offset all my added weight and lack of airodynamics that I now have.

Initially I thought that going mechanical would be way easier than trying to do electronic, but now in hindsight I would have had this done a very long time ago if I decided to keep all the electronic stuff. But there certainly is a reliability issue with the electronic setup. Just for one thing if you google 1KD injector failure you should find a lot of info about how people are having issues with them, and I think those issues would be even more remarkable in North America due to our diesel quality compared to the rest of the world.

Also, there are a bunch of other stuff that you would need that is not included with the engine e.g. injector drivers and other relays and electronic componenents which also add up.

RBX

Thanks Gary,
Would you mind listing the 'other stuff' you needed so i can make a list to send to AM?
He said everything for the swap would be in the package, but he didn't include a list.

After looking into doing a TDI swap, then an OM617, then a 1KZ-T, the 1KD-FTV is quite the powerhouse out of the box. The injector issue is a concern, but maybe i install the electric IP while i build the mech IP using the 1HD-T injectors.

Also, do you have any pics of how you mounted the mech IP?

thanks

Winch

I'm sorry, but I do not have a list because I never did bother researching all that. but as I worked my way through the FSM, I did notice quite a few things that would not be included with the motor and I certainly didn't get. Things like the turbo driver, injector driver, gas pedal positioning sensor, etc which are all located inside the cab.

I'm not sure if you really need this stuff or not, but you can have a look at this electronic version of the FSM, esp the part about "new car features" at the to, has some good info: http://toyota.esealtd.com/toyota/hilux/index2.html

I don't have a pic of the meck pump as such, but it simply attaches to the back of the front plate by two studs. The bolt pattern is different though so I hogged out the slots in the pump housing. I just noticed tonight that even if I retard the pump as far as it would go, the diesel is injected at about 17 degrees before TDC, and I think it should be closer to 10 degrees, so I'm going to have to skip a tooth or two on the timing gear which will be fair undertaking.

RBX

Thanks Winch, I'll look into the FSM.
What did you have to do to the 1HD-T injectors, i remember you saying you had to modify them at the collar so they would fit between the cams, anything else?

Get that thing tuned, so we can hear about butt dyno and smileage!

Winch

Thanks - yes I can barely wait to see how she performs.

A machine shop had to mill some of the body of the injector down in a lathe and then added a steel collar that was pressed on the injector by the collar so that they would go in perfectly straight to allow for proper sealing at the nozzle end. The other thing was that the inlet for the fuel was at a slightly different angle (lower) so that the clearance between the inlet and the camshaft on that side was too small so I lifted the injectors by using two brass washer seals at the bottom instead of one, to just give them that extra millimeter of clearance.

And then the other issue was to come up with a fuel return line since the return on the 1HD injectors come out the top compared to the 1KD return that came out the side. I simply used some plumbing barbed connectors and fuel line to connect these since there is no pressure in the return and it is covered by the valve cover.

Getting these injectors figured out definitely proved to be my biggest obstacle. There might be a bolt on type of application, but nobody could provide me with that info.

RBX

while i research which greaser is going into my rig, i will probably go with the electric IP, run some cetane boost at every fill-up and hopefully the US will see higher cetane numbers in the next few years, or your direct injection 1KZ-T mechanical injection pump with 1HD-T injectors will make its way under the hood of my rig, cuz 1650$(new) an injector or even 530$(used on fleabay) isn't gonna fly if i have to replace them due to crappy diesel in the US.

Thanks again,

Winch

Yep I know what you mean. I should add that I am actually using the nozzles from the 1KD in the 1HD injectors, because the spray pattern was too far off. So, I'm in the same boat when my nozzles go, but at least I am only running them at 2000 psi rather than the 20,000 psi that the stock 1KD runs at, so hopefully they will last 10 times longer.

Strangely, I have not been able to find anyone who would sell only the nozzles, because that is the part that goes. So, when I needed to get 1KD nozzles to put in the 1HD injectors, I had to buy a set of brand new injectors, just to get the nozzles. Fortunately I could order a brand new set from this place in China for $200 each. I don't think it would be possible though to tell whether they are the real Denso deal, or a knock-off, unless you have them forensically analyzed I suppose.

RBX

Why didn't you use the nozzles that came with it?

Winch

They were worn out. My engine is out of a 2009 and only has 25,000 miles on it, but there were indications that someone somewhere swapped the injectors out. Who knows where that happened, though.

If you ever go through with getting an engine from Am, you should ask him to check/verify that no-one messed with the injectors.

RBX

Good to know. I've seen guys request video of compression check also.

RBX

Hey Winch, can you give us an update. How's she runnin? Really leaning toward this swap so I'm bothering you for information since it's so scarce.

Thanks

Dieselyota

Hey winch, you get that bad boy running yet?


Word to the wise, I purchased a couple engines from this "AM" guy after seeing Winch's recommendation. My thoughts on them are: they're salvage engines (aka. bought for scrap metal at auction). Cracked this, broken that, wrong transmissions, no ECU...basically a total loss. Guy wont answer emails or the response is in broken english so he cant really understand what the problem is. "You receive engine, I sell engine, what is problem" Buyer beware...