1uz swap in the works.
#41
Registered User
Thread Starter
don't sweat it.. i didn't think you were an ass..
and the wire is yellow and green, double checked the wiring diag.
right now i am at the trans side of the swap, and i am going manual.
i have an r150f, and waiting to buy an bellhousing addapter to mate it to the 1uz bell.
for the clutch and flywheel: i am using a stock 3.0 clutch (for now) and the 3.0 flywheel.
this is what needs to be done to the flywheel:
1: get a stone hone and take off a around .002-3 from the inside were it sits over the crank. i think when i mesuerd it the 1uz crank outer diam. was 44.02-00mm?
the flywheel was like 43.95..? so prety close, it fits realy tight(as in clearance) i just spray a little wd40 on there and it slides right on
2: the holes are off, just bearly though like 1/16 of an inch in the same direction all the way around. so the will need to be slotted(waiting to do this).
3: the back of the flywheel were it mates to the crank is too tall, by like 5/16 or so. but there is plenty of room to machine it down, so the starter hits the ring gear.
you don't need to chamfer the teeth because the 3.0 starter engages from the back like the 1uz.
so you could get the 3sgte flywheel for over 100 bucks and still have to machine it. OR
you could use your old 3.0 flywheel, and spend around 100 or so for an hour at the machine shop to make it work(just a gues on the hour) i will call around today and see what its going to cost.
lets yah know what i find.
and the wire is yellow and green, double checked the wiring diag.
right now i am at the trans side of the swap, and i am going manual.
i have an r150f, and waiting to buy an bellhousing addapter to mate it to the 1uz bell.
for the clutch and flywheel: i am using a stock 3.0 clutch (for now) and the 3.0 flywheel.
this is what needs to be done to the flywheel:
1: get a stone hone and take off a around .002-3 from the inside were it sits over the crank. i think when i mesuerd it the 1uz crank outer diam. was 44.02-00mm?
the flywheel was like 43.95..? so prety close, it fits realy tight(as in clearance) i just spray a little wd40 on there and it slides right on
2: the holes are off, just bearly though like 1/16 of an inch in the same direction all the way around. so the will need to be slotted(waiting to do this).
3: the back of the flywheel were it mates to the crank is too tall, by like 5/16 or so. but there is plenty of room to machine it down, so the starter hits the ring gear.
you don't need to chamfer the teeth because the 3.0 starter engages from the back like the 1uz.
so you could get the 3sgte flywheel for over 100 bucks and still have to machine it. OR
you could use your old 3.0 flywheel, and spend around 100 or so for an hour at the machine shop to make it work(just a gues on the hour) i will call around today and see what its going to cost.
lets yah know what i find.
Last edited by birdduck; 06-23-2010 at 07:04 AM.
#42
I think i seen a 1UZ to R series bell housing on ebay the other day, might be worth checking out..
Your flywheel route is exactly what i did, i dont know if you got all that info from my thread but everything has been working great for me.
Good luck and nice work
Your flywheel route is exactly what i did, i dont know if you got all that info from my thread but everything has been working great for me.
Good luck and nice work
#48
Registered User
Thread Starter
so i bought those cad drawing for the 1uz to r series trans from v-eight.com..
the guy selling name is ed, he was realy quick to respond to any of my questions and there forum is full of info..
anyway, i sent them to my old work to have them plazed out.. if they work(pretty sure they will) i will have my addapter for 25 bucks!(i got hook ups) SWEET!!! and if they work out i can have many of them made and i would let them go for a good price .. should have one made this weekend. cross your fingers..
the guy selling name is ed, he was realy quick to respond to any of my questions and there forum is full of info..
anyway, i sent them to my old work to have them plazed out.. if they work(pretty sure they will) i will have my addapter for 25 bucks!(i got hook ups) SWEET!!! and if they work out i can have many of them made and i would let them go for a good price .. should have one made this weekend. cross your fingers..
#51
Registered User
Thread Starter
all you have to do is have it plazzed out and tap some holes, and your done.
and in my case if i can do it for 25-50 bucks and save 100 i would rather spend 3 hours more in work then
that 100 bucks.
and in my case if i can do it for 25-50 bucks and save 100 i would rather spend 3 hours more in work then
that 100 bucks.
Last edited by birdduck; 07-07-2010 at 07:36 PM.
#53
Registered User
Thread Starter
i got my flywheel done yesterday, and it fit like a glove ..
machinest just sloted the holes and i had them take of 5/16 from the back of the flywheel.
lined up exactly were the old flexplat did, and the bolts were long enough to reuse.
one of my bolts for my clutch broke of so i get to drill it out when i get home today..
oops.
well after this weekend i will be realy close to pre finished stage!.. i may have to remake my engine
mounts if the drive shafts don't reach, but i may be lucky and the'll bolt right up , once the trans is in
and bolted down i am starting on the exhaust... once that is done on with the radiator..
from there all the little odds and ends that need to be sorted out, i will be sure to take pics..
machinest just sloted the holes and i had them take of 5/16 from the back of the flywheel.
lined up exactly were the old flexplat did, and the bolts were long enough to reuse.
one of my bolts for my clutch broke of so i get to drill it out when i get home today..
oops.
well after this weekend i will be realy close to pre finished stage!.. i may have to remake my engine
mounts if the drive shafts don't reach, but i may be lucky and the'll bolt right up , once the trans is in
and bolted down i am starting on the exhaust... once that is done on with the radiator..
from there all the little odds and ends that need to be sorted out, i will be sure to take pics..
Last edited by birdduck; 07-09-2010 at 06:23 AM.
#57
Registered User
Thread Starter
UPDATE: okay made some headway on the adapter plate... took quite a lot of work to make it fit right but it payed off, here some pics.
heres the adapter all cleaned up and ready to be bolted on.
here it is bolted to the trans.
there is quite a bit to be done to the bell, lots of notching and grinding.
bell housing bolted on.
it says to tap the plate, where these bolts are going through, but i didn't like how it turned out so i changed it a little..
and the money shot.... went on super easy, so i know nothing was binding and shaft depth is perfect.
heres the adapter all cleaned up and ready to be bolted on.
here it is bolted to the trans.
there is quite a bit to be done to the bell, lots of notching and grinding.
bell housing bolted on.
it says to tap the plate, where these bolts are going through, but i didn't like how it turned out so i changed it a little..
and the money shot.... went on super easy, so i know nothing was binding and shaft depth is perfect.
Last edited by birdduck; 07-13-2010 at 07:15 PM.
#58
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amazing work man. but what are u gonna do about the fork and slave mounting?
and do u by any chance still have the template of that adapter
and do u by any chance still have the template of that adapter
Last edited by 4runnerguy; 07-13-2010 at 06:58 PM.
#59
Registered User
Thread Starter
i have the cad drawing... i got it from ebay for 25$.thats the next step, i need to weld a little plate or make something for the fork pivot to mount too, then cut a hole in the bell, then make a bracket for the slave.
i got a new slave/master, and the pedal assembly. i can make a line pretty easy, i still got a bunch of little things to do, i haven't even touched the radiator yet..
i got a new slave/master, and the pedal assembly. i can make a line pretty easy, i still got a bunch of little things to do, i haven't even touched the radiator yet..