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I can not figure out why the speedo is not working. I have even gone as far as to stick the stock 3.0 speedo back in it and it still isnt working.
I have power and ground and the green/orange wire from the ECM going to the green/red wire on on the comb meter plug.
There is a green/blue wire that comes off the comb meter and on the speedo its labeled 4p. Does this go somewhere? I cant figure out its purpose from the EWD's
Some EWD's have only the three wires onto the speedo and I have some that show 4 wires to the speedo.
Anyone have an idea on how to troubleshoot the speedo not working??
Also, does anyone have a pinout for the E12, or "H" in some diagrams) from the 3.4 auto harness?
hey there a few things and i can probably track your issue down for you, or at least help. what year and model are the electronics from. But the first thing u should look at is that you have 3 wires from the speed sensor these wires go to both the ecu AND the dash if you have a wire coming out of the ecu going to the dash and not splicing with another wire then its probably wired wrong and you arent receiving signal
My donor is a 97 RUnner. I am using the 340F auto trans and also the Runner transfer case for now.
the VSS on the tranny has only 2 wires coming from it.
I have a wire (green/orange) going from the ECM to the the speedo connecting to the Green/red wire going into the comb meter plug. that terminates at the "S" terminal of the speedo.
This obviously isnt correct as I have nothing going on at the speedo.
Right now I have the rear end on the jack so I can "drive" it in the garage to check the speedo with the many attempts to get it working.
Heres a pic of the 98 4runner Combo meter diagram. Well at least the Speedo portion of the Combo meter. Anyway i think this should clear some things up.
It seems that the 5vzfe 4runners didnt come without abs. so the speedo sensor on the 5vz auto 4runners came from the ABS sensors. kinda weird seems like there would have been a non abs option
#1 5vzfe with abs gets speedo signal from abs ecu
#2 3rzfe gets speedo signal from a sensor on tail housing of the transmission or transfer case.
#3 Both speedo's send the signal obtained from whichever source on to the cruise control, ecu, and 4wd ecu,
you might beable to fit a 3rzfe style speedo sensor onto this tranny i dont know. With the marlin adapter and a right hand drop x-case this wouldnt be a problem because you would have a place for a speed sensor in the new x-case.
After reading this and discovering that there is basically NO speedo provision in the harness from the EWD's, I planned to use the VSS out of my stock 92 transfer case. I wasn't sure if it would fit though.
Here is a shot of the 92 sensor still installed.
the 97 transfer case has a provision for it but nothing there. Just a plug. I assume because it the ABS system feeds the speedo and the Tacoma uses the same transfer case so non-abs Tacomas would need this sensor.
I installed the sensor and had to go out and find the plug for it off of the 3.0 harness. I am sssoooooooooo glad that I didn't toss that harness the other day thinking there was nothing that I needed off it anymore. I undid and cut some tape from the harness so that I wouldn't need to splice any wires for the run to the speedo.
At first I just routed everything though the open drivers door and connected everything to the comb meter plugs using the 92 FSM as a guide and the wire colors. I could not get it to start working. Strange as this is the same exact sensor, speedo, everything from my 92.
I am "driving" in the garage since this is the weather.
I then remember reading a guy on Pirate grabbed his wires in the kicked panel in the main plugs where everything else is.
I looked in there and sure enough there were wires that I had already marked speedo speed sensor.
Black/yellow is keyed power
Green/Blue is ground
Green/Red is signal
Hooked those up and fired the truck up and put it into drive and the needle started crawling up. SUCCESS!!!
I then took the wiring apart and ran it correctly.
Probably would have been better to run it up into the motor compartment and through the firewall somewhere and my son just put the fenders and hood all back on or I would have ran it into the space behind the passenger fender and through into the kick panel. I wasn't going to take the fender off for this so I used a factory grommet under the passenger seat that has wires passing through it already. I assume for the taillight assemblies.
In the garage on the stands I can get it to about 35 in drive before I start to get nervous about going through the wall if the thing jumped off.
Happy at a success I start to thing how smart I am and then notice that the odometer is not moving!! LOL!!! If it aint one thing, its another!
Guess I'll have to check the odometer dipstick and see if there's fluid in it!
I am guessing that this has to be a mechanical issue since I have never seen an odometer wire or circuit. Oh well.....that I can live without but would be nice to have it. Anyone have an idea?
well good to know as im in the process of wrapping up the swap on the 4runner. and am going to run into this issue shortly. although i knew about it ahead of time as im using a T100 Tranny which has a manual speedo and its going into a 92 4runner which has a electronic speedo, so i had to buy an adapter from Marlin Crawler as i cannot find an electronic speedo that fits the T100's
Had a few small things to finish up today so I watched the Super Bowl on the garage TV and spent the day tying up some loose ends. On the list was bending and massaging the dipstick tune from the "new" transmission pan from the 93 Runner with auto. The tube didn't fit into my motor compartment well and there was no natural place to bolt up the factory bracket so i had to make my own. If I would have been able to ever find a used T100 pan and tube, this probably would have been bolt-on. I am not sure. T100 parts are difficult to find. Even this Runner pan was much harder than I anticipated. I figured that these would be a dime a dozen but I looked for 3 weeks on many Toyota forums/Craigslist etc. Finally found one from North Carolina and shipped I had to pay about $65 for it, $40 of which was shipping because of the size.
Anyway, after getting it in once and having it leak from the pan. We took it all back apart and tried it again. What a bitch watching $40 in ATF pour into a jug that you just bought and poured in the day before. If I know for sure that we were not keeping the auto I would have reused it but since I still am not sure I bought six more quarts. The second time it sealed well and no leaks thus far.
I spent about an hour heating the tube with my small propane torch and bending it slightly, dipping it in water, checking, marking, repeat till I got a good path that I was happy with.
I had made a bracket already for the oil dipstick so I drilled a hole and tapped it and attached the tranny tube there on top of that bracket. I really like the ease of where it is located.
The other issue was the speedometer.
I got it working but the odometer not working was bugging me so I decided to investigate more. I pulled all that apart again for about the 100th time and decided to pop the old 3.0 speedo in there and see if that would work. It did so I ended up reswitch the gauge faced back to the stock configuration that I spend all that time changing a while back.
Note to everyone working on/planning the swap. NO NEED TO CHANGE YOUR SPEEDO!! THE STOCK 3.0 GAUGE WILL WORK FINE!
I guess this all depends on what VSS you are using to drive it but since mine if from my stock 150 tranny the speedo doesn't know the difference.
I'll have to go back and update the thread when I started to swap the speedo.
Been a while since this looked like this.
I am going to leave the shifter like this for now.
I am still uncertain on whether this truck will be manual or auto in its final form. So making all that area look good seems like a waste until we have a final plan. After we visit the ref we'll have to start making that decision. Leaning towards going back to manual but not sure.
Mainly it will depend on can i get this auto ECM to drive without CEL's without the auto in it, or can I find a manual ECM and want to swap the entire harness!! Would rather leave the auto ECM, but smarter people than me would have to help me with that!! Calling all smarter people!!!!
So as of now, it appears that stage one of the 3.4 swap is complete
Stage two starts after I have that BAR sticker. Exhaust, tranny, ..........
I'll call tomorrow and make an appointment with the BAR ref and see what happens with him.
By the way, anyone know if Toyota ever produced a 3.4V6 emblem at all??
So for the exhaust did you have it exist on the factory side for the 3.4 swap? Due to what was said about the Ref.
This means once i do my swap i'll have to route the exhaust the same way, and this mean i would have to get the exhaust done two times. One to past and suffice the Ref, and then to do it right to drive it as a daily driver.
talked to the state ref yesterday on the phone and asked about having to have the exhaust exit on the right side of the truck, as it would on the newer trucks. the ref stated, if the exhaust is factory and your only switching the crossover to have it exit on the left side as our trucks do stock it's totally fine. As long as it uses the factory cat for that year motor, and the o2's are located in the correct spots. Other than that the ref said try to get that cat as close to the manifolds as possible to it's nice and hot and operates at the correct temp as it should.
Then he said have the EVAP and whatever else is needed for smog.
ya I am using the stock crossover and it is completely uncut or unaltered in any way to about 8" past the 2nd O2 sensor.
I would be leery of that information over the phone as that is contradictory to everything I have been told by numerous people on the phone, and the experience of many other 3.4 swappers.
That is a huge risk to take someones word over the phone on faith, and even if they are wrong it wont help you pass. The local ref isnt going to allow it, risking his job, because someone on the phone said it was OK.
I'd go to the local Ref and talk to him
I'll post a few shots of how my exhaust looks tonight.
When i did my exhaust on my 3.4 i measured and put it in the exact same spot as factory as far as distance from the manifolds. I used 2.5 inch tubing and 2.5 inch CAT and with muffler. PROBLEM just pulled exhaust out of the original swap truck and the CAT has melted down and now rattles around. so seems that it needs to be moved further away from the headers. Although its possible that one of my fuel experiments caused the melt down.
I hope to go to the ref on Thursday afternoon. Depends on work. If not, it'll have to be next Friday.
Here are some shots of the exhaust as it is right now. I really hope this gets me through.
Its very tight in there. The stock fuel line had to be replaced by one a bent up from a piece I cut from my donor 4RUnner. The downpipe flange had to be ground on to fit and it still hits the torsion bar. I dont know if this picture tells the whole story but the flange is ON the torsion bar.
Think you might want to turn that a little farther away from the gas tank before you take it to the ref. i think hot gas that close they might see as a safety hazard
Went to the ref today but I got bum directions at first so i went to the wrong place. When I realized it I had 10 minutes to make a 20 minutedrive to the correct place. So because i was late they could not finish everything so I have to go back on Wednesday.
That really stinks and is a HUGE letdown as I was really looking forward to getting some answer one way or another as to whether I was good or not to get the BAR sticker.
Ref said everything looked good but they will know for sure on Wednesday.
I'll post back then.
By the way, the first thing he looked for was the exhaust and I told him everything was stock 97 past the second O2 and he smiled and said "good"
Got back to the ref today and what I was told was going to be a 15-20 minute followup appointment turned into an hour.
Oh well, cause I walked out with this:
They went over everything very thoroughly and must have crawled under it 7-8 times to look at the stock downpipe. He said that everything looked really good, because of course it does.
He said that the exhaust on the other side would be an automatic failure for those of you guys in California starting this. Just do it right, well......wrong, to pass.
Well now to make it 4x4 again. Gear driven case going to be picked up next week and then to decide to stay auto or go back manual and deal with all those headaches and expense of a new ecm, wiring, etc.
02-04-2010, 06:47 PM
LOL!!! If it aint one thing, its another!
but since I still am not sure I bought six more quarts. The second time it sealed well and no leaks thus far.
