When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Can you explain or point me to something to wire the AC so it will work while I am in there?
Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
haha well there are 2 leads from the ecu for the ac amp. Match those up. theres a couple wires for the high low cut off switches that need to be wired. Make sure you get a good vacum on your system to check for leaks, make sure you have the proper amount of oil for the system and charge it. I did mine a year ago and didnt take notes... just kinda.. looked at the 3.4 ac ewd and 3.0 ewd and .. "hey this looks like it should go here, that goes there.. and does it... ??? sweet.... cold.. " Thats really pretty much how it happened. But you do need the 3.4 ac amp.
no all the wires are right there by the amp. Just compare the two ewd's for the ac for the donor and your rig. Match up the wires. If you got the rig running. This shouldnt' be that hard.
I have a few things left to do. The truck will start and run but I haven't ran it except for that first time it started because there was no coolant, alternator belt loose but on, transmission lines hooked up, etc.
I have been trying to get all that done after work but its been going slowly.
My first focus was to get the battery secure. The box is really well designed to mount a variety of ways. There are four tabs around the perimeter to bolt it down and also two holes in the bottom that match the recess in the Optima to run a few bolts through. That's the method that I used. I really like that way the box accepts the female slots in the side of the battery.
All installed. I am going to run a new ground wire to the block to replace the stock cable. I couldn't find another GM style battery sidepost adapter in my box of stuff, so I will have to and grab one tomorrow.
This was my electrical simplified as much as I could.
I have more wires in here than most people will as I am going from manual to auto and I wanted all the sensors and switches for the auto trans to work. There is the ECT shift button and the O/D off button that run through the ecm. Also, the trans temp light for the dash. I ran all the indicator wires to the combination mater(gauge cluster) and all the wires for the switches as well. If I wasn't using those items, I could have shed another 10-12 wires.
I spent a lot of time laying everything out on a bench and grouping wires that would run to the same place or same direction and then taping everything up so it would pay out like a factory harness. This really help as I started routing everything in the truck.
Checking the ECM fit and proper angle of the ECM.
I removed on of the 3.0 ECM brackets and bent it in the vice and attached it to the 3.4 ECM to mount it.
This is with the kickpanel on. I'll wait till it runs longer and runs to see if I have issues before doing the final taping and tucking away.
I never got any response as to what I should do with all the cruise, abs, and airbag wires so in the necessity of saving space I made a diagram and then removed them all from the plugs that will go in the truck. That took about 15-20 wires that I don't have to cap and tuck in somewhere. It is a really tight fit to get the new ECM and all the wires in there and still get the kick panel on.
I received the parts from Toyota of Dallas finally so getting the alternator on properly is the next task. I cut the ear of the original thinking that it wouldn't go on otherwise but that proved not wise as I couldn't really adjust the belt well and there is plenty of room for the complete bracket. No need to cut it off
The alternator is another story. I know some, if not all, of you guys has minor clearance issues but mine just is not working out well. I place two washers between the frame and the steering box as indicated in a prior post and with those I have a minor amount of clearance. I'll have to keep an eye on this in the future. I will probably end up cutting the plastic shield off. Not a great shot but you see how close it is.
$100 trip to Wal-Mart. I really, really, really dislike going to Wal-Mart but a trip to Autozone to price Mobil1 and my decision was made. They were significantly more expensive than Wal-Mart and overall I estimate I saved about $35 over some of the autoparts stores.
I haven't taken pictures but I did get the lower radiator hose as well. I used a stock 3.0 hose and it fit perfectly. I was on the lookout for it rubbing on the alternator belt, and while it is close, I think that it is ok. With that I added about a gallon of coolant and will top it off when its running.
Onto the trans cooler line. There was some leaks in the Runner coming form the lines to the cooler so I ordered new Orings for the unions to fix that.
Part number if anyone is looking later.
I could not get the line threaded into the union on the transmission for anything so I pulled the union back out and saw this.
WTF!!! How could that happen??!
So I am going to have to source on of those now as the line is never going to thread onto that, and even if it did it would probably leak.
Very frustrating that that little fitting is the only thing from having this thing start and run and this point!!
Still need to figure out a temporary driveline fix to get it smogged and then after I change the transfer case, I will have one made.
Sourced another union of the cooler lines at a local wrecking yard. $20 for that damn thing!
Anyway got all that hooked up and everything seems to be fine.
The tach mod has been covered before but I thought that I would include it here as since many of the things here have been covered and the more instances, the better someone searching later can find it i guess.
The stock 3.0 tach.
The black line are where the resistor will go. A trip to Radio Shack and $.99 later and I was ready to solder in place. This is what you need.
Soldered in and ready to reinstall back into the gauge cluster.
Resistors for sale. Brand new!!
I still have the stock transmission pan on from the Runner and that isn't working out. I was hoping just to use this to get through the smog ref but it isn't going to last that long. Its resting on whatever you call this thing that mounts the front axle. It has bent the tube pretty good which make the stick difficult to get in.
Going to have to get another pan. I have been told the T100 pan is the way to go. I used my Toyota EPC and ran that part for the number. I get # 3510635022. I then cross referenced that number in the EPC program to see what other vehicles that came on. It stated all 89-95 auto trucks and Runners had the same part number. Not sure on this though. I posted in the 89-95 forum but anyone here have an auto from those years that can measure your pan and count the mounting holes? Is that a 340H? take some pics of it and the way to tube enters the motor compartment for me?
I got the radiator hoses on, after getting the bracket for the alternator installed as well. Its close like everyone else. The hose misses the belt by about 1/2". I'll have to keep an eye on this.
Also got the wiring for the alternator done. I replaced everything with 4gauge wire and on the connections to the alternator I simply matched the connections from the truck harness to the 3.4 alternator. Small white to small white, yellow to yellow and the red to red. Everything seems to be charging well. I have about 14v when running.
This is the coolant tank that i moved. You can see the lip on the core support where it mounts here.
I used a few spacers under the lip so the bottle could be bolted tight and sit flat.
This side is all done over here now.
One issue that I am having is the idle. It idles really high. About 1600-1700 when first started which doesn't really seem that bad when cold but it never goes down. I let it run about 10 minutes and it came up to temp, gauge halfway and it never decreased. Thermostat is open, heater blows hot. I wasted a huge can of carb cleaner spraying all my lines, hoses, intake, etc. and never got a surge indicating vacuum leak. Not sure what else to try other than IAC or something. I know that the people that I bought this from would have never driven with the idle that high. they took it to the dealer for out of warranty rattles. I must be something that had happened here i think but not sure what? I cant imagine the IAC went bad sitting here, or in a relatively speaking small wreck.
Basically what that thread says is the only difference between the two transmissions is wiring, and transfercase. the main transmission housing and function is identical. I'm not sure where the rumor got started that they were different but they aren't.
The T-100 A340F has the same Pan as the A340H In-fact they used A340F's behind 4cyls in pickups and 4runners. Very RARE though. The F and H seem to denote Transfercase function with H possibly standing for Hydraulic and I'm not sure what F would stand for.
To all California Swaps that are using automatic transmissions. I recommend using transmissions from T100's This will eliminate several issues, #1 Front drive line drop on correct side of car with no adapter. I just did a search on Car-part.com and came up with 46 transmissions for just 97 T100's only 2 of which were above $1000 Most were in the $600 range. I have seen the clearance first hand with this transmission in MY Vehicle. There is room although tight to put the exhaust down the Passenger side. I wouldn't suggest leaving it there once you get smogged though as it is to close to the fuel lines.
Once again im not a Californian and am not completely familiar with all the crazy regs you guys have. But this does seem simpler at least to me.
Last edited by thefallman; 01-25-2010 at 03:56 AM.
According to my Toyota electronic parts catalog any year T100 that had auto has the same part number as a 89-95 toyota pickup or Runner with auto.
I have been looking like crazy for a pan from any of these vehicles and have found it very difficult. People who have those trannys dont want to seperate the parts i need, which I dont blame them. New from the dealer would cost me about $200 and I am not doing that.
That and a driveline is what is holding me up right now.
Its been a while since I checked this thread I guess. Nice to hear that you got it going. Love to see porjects get closed up. Wish I could say the same for me. What do you have left?
I have bent the tube around as much as I can to the point that the dipstick is just about impossible to get into and out....let alone smoothly. So hopefully a new pan setup willl help. Have on coming from North Carolina. Hopefully should be in here in the next couple of days.
I have gotten sidetracked. I went to check out a dash bezel around the radio that i want to replace since this one has been cut as the idiot before me mounted the stereo from the front and cut the bezel up. the dash bezel was not in good shape when i got there but I did walk away with both front doors(full power), a bunch of various plugs from a 3.0/p4 runner style harness that i could use, a 3" body lift kit and some other little knick - knacks for $30 A great deal in anyone's book.
I got home and started ripping apart the "new" doors and stripped out the power windows, locks and mirrors. the passenger power mirror was crunched in the rollover this Runner suffered so i will have to source one but everything else worked great. I then started stripping out my truck and seeing what was going to fit. I didn't do a great amount of picture taking as I didn't think about it but everything from the 94 Runner power setup bolted right into the 92 truck. I had to enlarge one bolt for the power window regulator just a tad.
this is the power window in the truck. As you can see all the holes are there.
Since my truck had no power options, there were no wires ran into the door (other than the crappy job the previous owner did of running a speaker wire). I used the rubbers from the 94 that were still on the doors and grabbed my hole saws.
Easiest to remove the doors to make some holes.
Back to the EWD's. I thought I was just about done with these!!
Actually, I think that the wiring for this power lock/window system was harder than figuring out the 3.4 wiring. It took me a solid 3 nights of playing, popping about 12-15 fuses (always wire in fuses!) and lots of headscratching and cussing before everything was working right.
Luckily, I have a few wires from the 97Runner still to use.
When I added the lights into the gauge cluster for the AT temp, OD light, ECT light, etc. I didn't have any terminals to spare to use in the stock 3.0 gauge plugs. The 97 Runner uses smaller pins but they did work. I grabbed the ends from the 94 Runner off the harness so I could connect those wires onto the gauge cluster correctly as well.
Everything is working great.
Grabbed all this as well for the future maybe. Maybe another 3.4 swap is coming so an extra few plugs never hurt anyone.
I have read that the stock 3.0 ECM plugs plug into a 3.4 manual ECM so I grabbed these as well. I'll throw them in box and if I ever need them I have them. I don't even know if that is right though.
I also bought the body lift. If you have been following this thread you know I already bought and installed a 1.5" body lift from 4Crawler. I dont need the lift itself but inside was the parts that I can use I think. Again, if you have been reading this, you know that I have a the rag joint very close to the alternator. This lift had steering extension that installs at the box and will move the rag joint up about 2". This should allow more clearance and solve my issues without ever having the worry about it again. the kits also had an adjustable shaft mount for inside the cab. I had already ordered the new seal from Toyota of Dallas so this all will be a fine addition.
As far as the 3.4 swap goes, I am really just about done. The holdup has been the pan for the tranny, and the drivelines that i have do not fit with the auto in there now.
I could survive without the pan but no drivelines mean no-go.
I have been holding off because having a driveline made only to change my setup after smog means a new driveline for more money. A driveline now is only temporary so i have been reluctant to spend any money on one. I got lucky meeting a really cool guy that happens to live close to me so i called him up to see if he had an auto driveline setup that i could buy. He offered to just loan his to me......even better.
New problem. Older style drivelines don't fit on newer style transfer case flanges!!! I didn't know this. I started thinking about it and thought about swapping the rear flange from my stock transfer case and see if it would fit on this 97 transfer case. Great thought but I didn't have a 30mm socket. Took a while to find one and easily enough the 92 and 97 transfer case flanges interchanged perfectly and viola......my new friends driveline bolted right in!!!
I installed the front half tonight and my kiddo will install the rest tomorrow.
Now the next problem.
I think that the transfer case is in neutral. Since this setup is temporary i didnt install the shifter or even cut a hole for it. Now its covered by floorboard!!! I'll have to cut a hole to get the shifter in to get it in 2Hi so it'll drive. What a dumbass!!
Anyway, I am hoping to drive it this weekend i am thinking.
Cant wait to check out the difference from my 3.0 with a spun bearing with the #5 cylinder's plug wire disconnected!!!
I know this is a swap forum but I thought that I would update the power windows and locks that started. Finished that all up today and everything turned out great. As usual though, the smallest things give the hardest time.
First my stock 92 panel.
And the 95 Runner
The back of both of them. As you can see the gold screws hold the handle/armrests on and the holes are identical except that the Runner has more because its longer.
The armrests are identical in the back as well other than the length.
One of the problems was that the hole for the window crank isn't covered by the new armrest. At first, we were fine with the since power windows, mirrors and locks was a good tradeoff. The more I looked at it though I thought we could cover it.
I decided to push the front edge up higher and have the armrests have a slight incline to cover the hole. To do this I had to drill all new holes in the rear which is harder than it sounds because you just have to eyeball everything and hope you are sticking the screw through the right spot to line up. I wont say that I didn't miss a few times but for the most part it wasn't that bad. I could have taken the time to make a template but...............
Turned out good.
Now the hard part is done and the "easy" part. Attaching the panel. A few snaps and screws and done. Ya right!
Since the armrests were moved ever so slightly, now the big screws that take the brunt of pulling the door shut do not line up.
I though that I would just run a few tapping screws in.
These were too short and I was much too into it to run and get more. Nothing I hate more than running to get stuff while I am doing something.
I had some longer ones but the needed a 7/16 socket to run them in and the socket wouldn't fit in the hole in the armrest!!
I ended up running some long sheet metal screws into the door and then pulling some anchors from the parts Runner and installing them. Everything worked out and they secure nice and tight.
All told I have about an hour into just those two screws!!
Ok so all is good and I get the door panel on, install the switches and test the windows and locks and everything is good. Go to install the interior door handle and there is no rod. I know its there but i cant feel it anywhere.
I drop a few choice cuss words and take the panel off again to see what is going on.
The Runner doors are about 4-5 inches narrower than the truck doors. that why I could not just swap the entire panel to start with. Well the opening rod is also shorter and I didn't notice it.
This is with the 92 rod back on and I am holding the 95 Runner rod.
All that fixed and everything reinstalled and everything works great!
Looks pretty good too. The windows and locks work perfect and the drivers mirror as well. I need to find a passenger mirror though because it was ruined in a rollover.
All done.
Doing the passenger side was of course much easier since I know what to expect.
I also robbed the door locks from the 97 Runner and installed them into the 92 handles. They fit perfectly. Didn't even have to change the rod levers. We also pulled the ignition switch from the Runner and other than taking about 1/2 off the long key-in lever, it also fit perfect. My 92 truck locks were really stiff and now we have good working locks and matched to the ignition key
Ok so back to the 3.4 swap stuff. I did get the steering shaft to where I am happy with it. I installed the extension that I bought and the firewall plate so there is some adjustability ( I don't think that's a word) and installed the new seal.
I don't know if there is an easier way to do this but I ended up pulling the entire column out to get all the shaft into each other. I also had to cut about an inch of the splined shaft that engages into the steering column joint. It was too long otherwise with the extension on there since my body lift isn't 3" like the kit the extension was meant for. I also opted to just remove the plastic shield for the column in the motor compartment. It was really just in the way and since I made my oil dipstick bracket come off the motor too far, it was now rubbing on that. It was either rebuild that bracket or lose the steering shield. Bracket won.
Now I have plenty of room and the scarf joint is now further up and I can move my alternator a good ways to tighten the belt.
Also robbed the insulator from the Runner. It obviously too large for the shaft but fits well everywhere else.. It'll work.
Did get a driveline from a guy here in town that I met and he was nice enough to let me borrow it. It was from a 89-95 excab with auto and everything bolts up perfect.
The transmission pan did not come on Saturday like I was hoping so we are still in a holding pattern until it does. Damn USPS!
Honestly I have no idea what brand the lift was. the guy had taken it off a Runner that he is SASing.
I had a major meltdown once in a Jeep that I owned where the cable to the starter from the battery melted to the exhaust and the battery exploded.
I know its kind of ridiculous but any custom stuff now i always add a breaker to prevent a catastrophe. Better safe than sorry and I had it laying around.
will you be willing to part with the little cup thing on the door handle from the door panel? dealer wants 40 bucks for it.. i dont want it for that much
Vital show me a picture of what you want. The little change cup thing at the front of the interior handle/armrest?
I have no idea where I got the breaker. I used to build car stereo systems so I have a lot of stuff laying around in boxes from those days from my youth.
Did get a check engine light after about our 5th trip around the block. the speedo isnt working so I need to figure that out. Hopefully that is the reason for the CEL??? Have to get a scanner at autozone or somewhere.
Also, have a nasty leak from the trans pan so that has to come back off and $30 in fluid down the drain.
Cheap video from my hacked iphone video app.
Not sure why that is showing double. I didnt even know it recorded sound! That is just the stock cat; no muffle at all on it.
01-12-2010, 10:14 PM
