hawaiibake

So I have a cheap-o champion winch. It worked a couple times, then I was trying to winch a buddy out of a mud hole and it stopped working. I tapped it with a hammer and it started working for a second and then quit.

I tore it open and the brushes and coil look kind of corroded. I cleaned it as best I could and put it all back together and it still just clicks when I push the line in or out button.

I know a better winch probably wouldn't have broken, but I cannot afford one so I would like to fix the one I have...

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

hawaiibake

update: Just took the cover off and tested all of the solenoids, they all check out. Not sure why it would just stop working. I think all that is left is the motor itself?

INFINITY

try checking the power connections from the batt. or just call them up

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

The solenoid clicking just tells you that the coil is intact and pulling the contacts together. Could be dirty or pitted contacts or a bad connection at one or more solenoids causing them not to pass current to the winch motor. See if you are getting power to the motor (12 volts), if not, check each solenoid to see if it is making a good connection. There are typically 2 solenoids for each motor direction, one making the power connection and one making the ground connection.

hawaiibake

I double checked all of that stuff with a test light. I used jumper cables to bypass the wires to make sure.
I think I may have to bring it in. dont usually like having to get other people to fix my stuff that I broke.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Might be better to use an actual volt meter. A test light will just give you a go, no-go reading on voltage, but the winch motor needs to see a good fraction of the 12 volt battery to run. Or use the test light across the solenoid contacts when they are energized and you should not see any light (indicating near 0 volts across the solenoid). If the test light lights, then that means that solenoid is bad.

86tuning

Use a voltmeter, all three motor terminals should see 12v when activated.

And carefully check your ground. Motor shell to battery terminal should see less than 0.5v when everything is energized. Preferrably 0.2v or less.

jpmountainboy

maybe your battery is low/corroded connection and cant pull enough current...kinda like when your car wont start, just clicks, then you spray off the starter or battery connection with a little break clean and WAMMO, fires right up. big loads need to be able to draw those amps.

hopefully right?

hawaiibake

Nice, thanks for all the info, I will give it a try. Wife not happy it is sitting on the dining room table

hawaiibake

Turns out it was a bad ground to the case. not sure how that happens, maybe a lot of corrosion. anyway I really wanted to have it running for the weekend so i ponied up the $150 to have someone else fix it. it is twice as fast as it was before!
zoom!
too bad i didn't get stuck and actually have to use the thing