900 watts for lights
#1
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Location: Green River, Wyoming
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900 watts for lights
Hey guys, i need some opinions. Right now im running a 93 pu with a 3.4 engine and i believe the 3.4 stock alt at 70 amps. i think. but i was doing some math and im not sure if i over looked anything with it or not.
here's the formulas;
Converting Watts to Amps
The conversion of Watts to Amps is governed by the equation Amps = Watts/Volts
For example 12 watts/12 volts = 1 amp
Converting Amps to Watts
The conversion of Amps to Watts is governed by the equation Watts = Amps x Volts
For example 1 amp * 110 volts = 110 watts
so to me this means that for
900 watts/12 volts= 75 amps
so to break even with charge vs discharge i would need to run 75+ amps for the trucks other electrical system right?
does anyone know the amount of power the vehicle takes to run??
what would you recommend???
(by the way 900 is only when i have every light on, forward and back, so 900 is not constant)
here's the formulas;
Converting Watts to Amps
The conversion of Watts to Amps is governed by the equation Amps = Watts/Volts
For example 12 watts/12 volts = 1 amp
Converting Amps to Watts
The conversion of Amps to Watts is governed by the equation Watts = Amps x Volts
For example 1 amp * 110 volts = 110 watts
so to me this means that for
900 watts/12 volts= 75 amps
so to break even with charge vs discharge i would need to run 75+ amps for the trucks other electrical system right?
does anyone know the amount of power the vehicle takes to run??
what would you recommend???
(by the way 900 is only when i have every light on, forward and back, so 900 is not constant)
#3
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does that sound right for that alt output?
the most i run at a time is about 600, that's 2 100 watt kc on bumper and 4 overhead kc.
If you cant tell i do alot of night wheeling
the most i run at a time is about 600, that's 2 100 watt kc on bumper and 4 overhead kc.
If you cant tell i do alot of night wheeling
#4
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uuuhhhh yeah, that's a lot of light. and your math is right, 75 amp draw. so if you want to break even then yes, you need a bigger alternator. i'd go with at minimum 80 amp, but a 90-120 would work better. for your situation, i would suggest investing in an automotive ammeter, something with a 100-0-100 range (or larger).
jeez, 900 watts of pure kc...
edit: i'm jealous
jeez, 900 watts of pure kc...
edit: i'm jealous
Last edited by irab88; 01-21-2011 at 11:19 PM.
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#11
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I'm not used to talking about alternator output in terms of watts, but I do know that unless the battery is severely low the alt charges at about 13 to 15 volts instead of 12. That puts your amp load between 60 and 70 amps for your 900 watts. Most ignition systems have a 6 amp draw. You check this by connecting your ammeter in series with the battery and the terminal (positive or negative doesn't make a difference) and turning your ignition on without starting the truck.
I've used a clamp on ammeter coupled with a digital multimeter to check my alternator output on my 4runner (70 amp alt) with everything running and I totally MAX it out with engine running about 1500 to 2000RPM, my fog lights, HID driving lights, High beams, radio on, blower motor on high, rear defroster... anything that I'd be even tempted to use at the same time I turned on. I want a higher output alt just so that I know that I'm not running at max output at any time... just in case something happens and more is required. It also allows the alt to run cooler since its not maxed, which will extend its life.
I've used a clamp on ammeter coupled with a digital multimeter to check my alternator output on my 4runner (70 amp alt) with everything running and I totally MAX it out with engine running about 1500 to 2000RPM, my fog lights, HID driving lights, High beams, radio on, blower motor on high, rear defroster... anything that I'd be even tempted to use at the same time I turned on. I want a higher output alt just so that I know that I'm not running at max output at any time... just in case something happens and more is required. It also allows the alt to run cooler since its not maxed, which will extend its life.
#12
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lol ill say it again a gm cs 144 cranks out 100amps at idle and 140 at full tilt bolts in with a few washers and a little wireing and they can be found cheap
#13
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iTrader: (4)
they are meant for permanent installation, like on the dash or a gauge pod. they require the use of a shunt, but some come with one and most tell you which type they require
this will work. heck, i might get one
here's a whole slew of different ranges, all the way up to 300-0-300
and an ebay search. there are more out there, so look around a bit
this will work. heck, i might get one
here's a whole slew of different ranges, all the way up to 300-0-300
and an ebay search. there are more out there, so look around a bit
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