88 22re Cranks long before starting
#1
88 22re Cranks long before starting
I need some help here i have been farting around with this problem and im sure its simple. 88 4runner with 416,000 miles (and doesnt leak a drop lol ) When starting no matter hot or cold it cranks long and i have to feather the gas to get her started. Onces she's started she runs like crap for about 10-15 seconds and you can smell strong exhaust for that time. Then she runs fine and drives great. I'm thinking it may be the igniter but not sure. The wire connection from the igniter to the distributer has 2 wires router to the connector and a 3rd wire wrapped around the grey sheath which does connect to the igniter on one side but not sure about the other. In the pic i have circled there are actually 3 wires 2 sheathed and one that appears to be a ground which is not visible, does that ground wire connect to anything? It may just be sheath protection but i wanted to know for sure. If you've had this problem please let me know how to fix it. Thanks
#2
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I have to ask when was your last Major tune up??
The whole nine yards !!
How long has this been happening??
Most igniter and coil problems that are intermittent seem to occur once they get hot.
Just what do you mean by long cranking??
Stepping on the pedal just gives it more air not fuel if you are stating your engine correct as a 22rec and not a 22r.
Fuel injection or carburetor
These engines when tuned correct most often fire right off I know mine do .
The whole nine yards !!
How long has this been happening??
Most igniter and coil problems that are intermittent seem to occur once they get hot.
Just what do you mean by long cranking??
Stepping on the pedal just gives it more air not fuel if you are stating your engine correct as a 22rec and not a 22r.
Fuel injection or carburetor
These engines when tuned correct most often fire right off I know mine do .
#3
Fuel injected
I have already replaced the plugs, wires, cap rotor, reconnected all the grounds even the ones that connect to the engine. It takes about 10 -15 seconds of cranking and starts best when the gas or air pedal is pressed to the floor. Then its starts, sputters a bit most likely because its flooded and then smooths out to normal.
This issue started a while back around when my accessory wire from the ecu to the battery broke but i dont think its related as i replaced that wire with an 8 gauge wire. It could be an vaccum leak but every once in a while if i leave the truck sitting for a little while it will fire up like normal. I also dont think its fuel pressure related as it drives great after a few seconds
I have already replaced the plugs, wires, cap rotor, reconnected all the grounds even the ones that connect to the engine. It takes about 10 -15 seconds of cranking and starts best when the gas or air pedal is pressed to the floor. Then its starts, sputters a bit most likely because its flooded and then smooths out to normal.
This issue started a while back around when my accessory wire from the ecu to the battery broke but i dont think its related as i replaced that wire with an 8 gauge wire. It could be an vaccum leak but every once in a while if i leave the truck sitting for a little while it will fire up like normal. I also dont think its fuel pressure related as it drives great after a few seconds
Last edited by Bass Assassin; 08-06-2013 at 09:36 AM.
#4
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Sounds almost like the fuel system is losing pressure when the engine is shut off.
Have you tried turning the key to run wait your 15 seconds then crank .
Could also be the cold start injector is so worn it sprays more gas then it should hence you needing to give it more air
Has the cold start injector been changed ever 416,000 miles is a tad of mileage.
Have you tried turning the key to run wait your 15 seconds then crank .
Could also be the cold start injector is so worn it sprays more gas then it should hence you needing to give it more air
Has the cold start injector been changed ever 416,000 miles is a tad of mileage.
#5
I have thought about the cold start injector however i starts the same hot and cold which i thought wouldnt happen if it was the cold start injector. I can remove it and clean the contacts. I didnt think it is fuel related as i used sea foam which supplys fuel to the intake and it still stuggled to start which i think it wouldnt as the sea foam would act as fuel when cranking but i can test the pressure this weekend.
Last edited by Bass Assassin; 08-06-2013 at 10:30 AM.
#6
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I'm having the same exact problem with my truck now. Did you ever find a resolution? I've got a hunch it might be my fuel pressure regulator but I don't have anything to check fuel pressure with. Mine also seems like it has lost some power and sometimes runs a little rough for a moment while idling.
#7
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If it is flooding slightly as it sounds like it is it could be a sticking/ leaking injector, or it's not firring right off. What I mean is when you start cranking it over it's spraying fuel every time the intake stroke comes around but it's not sparking on the compression stroke the first few times. Or it could be that when you cut it off a leaking injector/ cold start injector is leaking what fuel pressure you have into the cylinder causing it to flood. That is why you are having to hold it wide open. Exes fuel means it needs more air to ignite it. Try seafoaming it by pouring it in the tank. If that does not help I would have a buddy crank it over while you hook a timing light up and see if it is firing before it actually starts running. Then check injector noid. And then sticking injectors.
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Thanks I'll give it a shot. It has been a while since I've run some seafoam and I had some pretty cruddy gas in there several years ago when I first bought it.
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Just to close things out: it ended up being really really tight exhaust valve clearance was the issue. Loosened them up within spec and now she runs like a top!
#12
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Funny you say that, mine had developed a bad miss on 2 cylinders at idle and surging when at low rpms and terrible mpg I'm talking she would suck a half tank in 40 miles from half to empty, and it was getting so bad that I was afraid to wheel it. I checked the compression, 120, 20, 45, 175. DANG! pulled the valve cover and the only one with clearence was 4, it had 2 thousandths. All exaust was tight. Set em to 11 checked the intake and bam she had 160- 170 on all cylinders now!! Runs like a hi performance top again!
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Yeah it is crazy how big of a problem tight valves can cause. The weird thing was I adjusted my calves like 30,000 miles ago so it isn't like I neglected them for an abnormally long time!
#14
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Mine has one of those elcheapo Chinese " complete new head" from ebay that the PO put on. And I just adjusted mine on the last oil change. So it's only been 4000 miles. so on mine it's the cheap valves and seats. When I checked them prior to the engine blowing up they were tight to. So mine have been well taken care of haha
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