rube

ok so a couple months ago i decided to freshen up my truck(86 4runner 22re). i put a egnbldr street rv head, thorly header, water pump,timing chain, and all maintenance items spark plugs ect.(cant remember it all lol). anywho i put it back together and it wont start.well truck will start on the cold start injector for a few seconds but thats it. after going threw spark and fuel(new fuel pump) i put the noid light on the injectors and there not firing. so i then proceed to check every sensor on the truck with the multimeter and there all good. i have also swapped a good ecu in the truck. somehow the truck started once but ran like junk. i shut it off and it wouldnt run again. right now i have the harness deloomed and all the splices look good. im going to put it back together today.

so thats the background info now for some questions.
-the first time i started the truck i had the firing order wrong and had a severe backfire(stupid oriellys rotor cap was labeled wrong lol). i know this is a long shot but if anyone has input on this let me know.

-there is 2 signals that the ecu needs to fire the injectors the ne and igf signals. the igf is the spark signal that comes from the ignition coil. the ne is the rpm signal that i cant find out were it comes from. anyone know? im thinking the distributer which i have yet to swap out.


well thats all i can think of right know. if anyone finds the problem ill even paypal you some monies lol. if you got thruogh all of that lol thanks-rube

toyota4x4907

Tested the AFM? COR not burned?

myyota

Check the solenoid resistor, if its bad your 4Runner won`t start. Right after i got my 86 4Runner it decided on day not to start, after checking everything and not finding the problem, just for the heck of it i decided to try the spare solenoid resistor that i had, and it started on the first try.

rube

what is this COR you you speek of? can explain what it is pweez..?

rube

well i got the wiring harness wrapped back up and the plenum back on and still no fire to the injectors(not like i was expecting anything to happen anyways lol). anyways ive tried everything mention above with no luck. the only thing i havent swapped out is the ignitor and the distributor. i know these are ignition componets but what i dont know is if they send a signal to the ecu to tell it to fire the injectors. does any one know if this is true?

Hadmatt54

The Toyota TCCS ECU fires the injectors by completing the ground circuit, with the key on there is always battery voltage to one terminal of an injector.
Actually the injector driver circuit in the ECU requires input from 5 sensors to fire the injectors. It uses, throttle angle, coolant temp, airflow, exhaust oxygen and engine rpm to determine the injector pulse duration.
The TCCS system is broken down into two parts besides the ECU. There are Sensors and actuators. The way it works is the sensors provide the ECU with the current operating state of the engine, based on this information the ECU sends commands to the Actuators to be carried out and then the sensors send new data to the ECU and from that the ECU is able to determine whether or not the last set of commands sent to the actuators has changed engine operating perameters and then the ECU adjusts it's next commands based of the latest information received from the sensors.
Short answer:- No the ESA (Electronic Spark Advance) System is one of the actuators.

There are some very good articles of how the Toyota TCCS system works on the net, just do a search.

If you know that your wiring is okay, that your EFI relay has power and is functioning properly, your circuit opening relay (cor) is functioning the way it should to allow the fuel pump to turn on and fuel to flow in the rail, then "myyota" is on the right track.
As he says the quickest way to see is to plug in another solenoid resistor, but if you don't have a spare and you obviously know your way around a multimeter, then there are a couple of tests you can do.
1) unplug the solenoid resistor, check resistence from both of the wires in the double connector (No.10 & No.20) to the single wire (B+). Resistance should be 2-3 ohms for both.

2) With the solenoid resistor plugged back in use a small solid wire or a paper clip, with the key in the on position first verify battery voltage from B+ to body ground should be 9-14 v measure from No.10 and No.20 to body ground it should be 9-14 volts as well. Measure both No.10 and No.20, if voltage is not present the solenoid resistor is faulty. If it is okay then;

3)On the 10p connector of the ECU, looking at the back of the connector (front plugs into the ECU) Eo1 is top left Eo2 is below it, No.10 is directly right of Eo1 and No.20 is below No.10. Move the paperclip(s)to the back of the terminals, with the key on you should measure 9-14v. between No.10 (or No.20) and either
Eo1 or Eo2. No10 and No20 are jumpered in the harness after they leave the injector clips so you can use either one for this check.
If you measure standard voltage then all components up to this point are fine and your problem is either the ECU or the wires Eo1 and Eo2 or their connection to ground which is at the intake manifold.

Try this and let us know how you make out!

takeitoutgetitdirty

I had the same problem with my truck and come to find out I did not rehook the ground back up to the intake manifold. Not sure if its your problem but it drove me crazy checking everything else out just to find out that is was that freaking ground. I felt completely stupid because I pulled all my plugs out and tore into the harness just to figure that out.

rube

well ill bump this thread. kinda gave up for a while but im back at it lol.
so i was researching megasquirt and i came across this nifty litlle diagram. the reason i think the injectors arent firing is because one of these signals isnt working or at least arent getting to the ecu.

as stated before i couldnt find out were the various signals came from and now i know.
what i dont know is how to test these signals other than replace the parts. ive bought a used distributer off ebay(for the vr sensor) bolted it in and once again no go. so the next step for me is to buy a coil/ignitor then if that doesnt do it im going to find a new wiring harness.
if you got any imput that you think would help a brutha out let me know.

Hadmatt54

I wasn't entirely correct on my earlier post. The 22re does not need an IG signal to start, but it does need an RPM signal, which it gets from the Ne pickup in the distributor.
So if your injectors are not firing and your ECU injector firing circuits are not the problem, then your Ne pickup or the circiut wiring back to the ECU might be the issue.

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

X2 the ground comes out of the harness same as injector plugs. It easily hides itself. It connects to the rear juction of the upper and lower intake manifold. Without it cold start inject but no main injectors.

rube

the grounds are good ive checked those propably 100 times lol.
i installed the new vr sensor on the distributer and no go. i guess im going to by a new ignitor and see what it does.

some drunk guy

x3 on the grounds, but I would redo the ground of the coil, and prep the area, where the sensor goes that looks like a 2 prong fork 10mm bolt on the driver side fender well. Even though the bolts are tight, if the coil and the 2 prong sensor are not grounded right, it wont fire... It happend to me already, sounds like the same symptoms.

rube

well still no luck im out of ideas and i really want my truck run lol. so im bumping this to see if any one has any thing else to add. im ready to give up and take it to toyota and let them look at it but i really dont think they could figure it out either. any help would be appreciated.

rube

it lives!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!! I ended up taking it to a local shop and having them take a look at it lol. the problem was some bad wiring were the harness comes out of the fire wall literally three inches above were i deloomed the harness anywho im happy ended up costing me a hunded bucks to fix but im soooo glad its finally running. the only problem is now im having trouble getting in time its at about 30 degrees btdc but when you put it at 5 btdc it runs like poo im thinking its the tps so ill check that first.
thanks for the help guys!!!

Ron Helmuth

glad you got it solved. Appreciate the update on the fix.

Fascinating thread. I could read HadMatt's reply for a week and still screw it up.

Danieller758

I'm having the same problem with my Toyota pick upit's an 87'.

Currently it runs only if you pour fuel down the intake.
I've tested every resistor. I've deloomed the entire harness. I've done ohm checks on every wire.
ensured every ground is there from wiring diagrams.

Injectors are good they open with the 9v battery tests.

I've tried a new ECU and resistor. Same problem. The only thing we haven't tried is a new ignitor

Does anyone have any more ideas?
I'm ready to send this thing to the crusher. 🤣😭

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

You can have it towed to my place, I need a few bits of your sheet metal.

How about you start your own thread. Fill it with details like video of your #10/#20 ECU outputs firing an LED instead of the injector wires.

Volume and pressure tests of the fuel pump system.


PS if it runs with you manually feeding it fuel your spark certainly isn't a problem.