trees4

I just checked the wires, they are connected to the correct plugs from the coils.
Thanks again for the diagram!
Now it looks like I'm replacing the plugs again!

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

Spark plug gap has been mentioned, what gap did you set the plugs at?

trees4

I completely left them alone, so whatever it was from the factory.
I don't have any gauges, so I couldn't set it if I wanted to.

Looks like I was ill-prepared to take on this "simple" task, I never dreamed it would be this complicated!

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

Silly question here....but did you reattach the air intake tube before trying to start it? IE is the airflow meter hooked back up?

And pull the plugs back out, and wipe all the grease off the end. Dielectric grease is for electrical connections between the plugs/wires, not the electrodes.

95blackToy

Check to make sure you didnt accidentally knock any vacuum hoses off. If the right one was off it could possible keep it from starting.

trees4

I'm a complete MORON, apparently.
In preparation for replacing ALL of the spark plugs, I started removing the air filter hose, and found a long multi-pin plug that I had not connected (it was DARK last night when I was finishing up).
This whole thing was because the engine couldn't get any AIR!
I never thought about there being a fan pushing air in, since back in the 80's we didn't use such things on normal passenger cars. The poor truck was suffocating.

No, I wasn't stupid enough (almost, but not quite) to put the grease on the electrodes, I only put it on the wire connections and on the end of the spark plug that sticks OUT of the engine block (where a wire would be attached).

I let it run for a few minutes, and it is MUCH smoother now, but the "Check Engine" light is still on. That's a battle for another day, because I have other stuff to do now. Perhaps the coil does need replacing, but I'll stop by yet another parts store to get the codes read again.

THANKS AGAIN!

brian2sun

There's no specific code for coils, plugs, or wires - it's just the same cylinder miss code when any of these go bad so your mechanic is guessing along with the rest of us. I'm assuming all those codes you posted stared with P03XX - not P08XX. Changing coils is total guess work without testing resistance or having a code and swapping them to see if the miss moves. I do not recommend replacing the coils yet because according to your codes, that would mean that the planets aligned and all 3 of your coils failed at the exact same time - very unlikely. Like having 3 different light bulbs go out in your house all at once.

Here's my advise... Get NGK dual electrode plugs (#BKR5EKB-11) or Denso (#K16TR11). They are pre-gapped at .43-.44, but I would check them with the correct gap tool specifically for dual ground plugs just to be sure. Install them and put some dielectric grease in the boots at the ends of the wires as well as the boots coming down from the coil packs. Make sure you know that the wiring order and the cylinder numbering are different. Look at post #3:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/f...-4-help-47016/

Inspect everything as you go, particularly the coil boots as most people never think about changing these until they have melted to your plugs. Go over the vacuum hoses like mentioned earlier and good luck!

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

I'll take my payment in crisp $100 bills kthx

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

HAHAHAHA!

As far as the plugs, ALWAYS check, .... it's a 1$ bill for a gapper at the desk in that very parts store... you don't even have to buy it. Last 2 SETS I've bought, from the dealer(OEM Discount ) were supposedly set at .30 at the factory.... however, I checked mine at the counter and they were .50! Yes, it will run, but that's just an example of how off these things can be when slamming around in a truck, or some guy with not enough sleep and too much drinky-drinky the night before put them in the sleeves and shipped em out! lol.

Congratulations, DC!

trees4

Brian,
I double-checked with the parts store, and they say the plugs they sold me were "Twin-Tip" Densos, and are comparable to the original, maybe even better.
Whether or not they are correct, I've gotten past caring since everything runs fine now that I found the disconnected Air Meter sensor wire thing that I had neglected to reconnect.
I did put the dielectric grease in the boots when I reconnected everything to begin with, and I think my inability to express this correctly has led many here to think that I had put the grease on the electrodes like a complete idiot - I'm ALMOST that stupid, but not quite.

Thanks to an earlier poster, I was able to verify that I had all of the wires attached in the correct order, so it's all good now. I was able to drive the Truck (I've nicknamed it "Bullseye", after Woody's trusty steed in Toy Story 2).
So now all I have to do is get the old codes cleared and see if any more pop up. Also I have to return the coil and double-tip spark plugs I had purchased in error.

brian2sun

Glad it's running good now!

jreask

I just replaced my plugs today with NGK BKR5EKB-11 plugs. I could not even get the gauge between the electrodes . I had to gap every one of them. It is a PITA to gap them with double electrodes. My truck does have a lot more power but seems to be a little noisier in the engine compartment.

JR