'91 Pickup - Clutch pedal engagement/adjustment issues
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'91 Pickup - Clutch pedal engagement/adjustment issues
So first off I have a '91 Pickup, 3.0 V6 4wd with 265,000 mi.
In order to have complete disengagement the clutch pedal has to be all the way to the floor, to the point where there's an imprint in the carpet from the pedal. When letting off the clutch it grabs almost right off the floor (obviously) and completely engages about 2/3rds of the way up.
Occasionally when clutching in and sliding the shifter out of gear I feel it grind. It feels like the clutch isn't disengaging all the way despite having the pedal in as far as possible.
Are these the symptoms of a worn clutch? It grabs fine and I haven't noticed any slippage. Or the hydraulic system? Maybe I should flush it out with new fluid, or check the slave. What about adjusting the pedal itself? It seems like the master cylinder rod is screwed out almost all the way.
As well, the clutch pedal bracket is not to blame. Shiny and new with no cracks. I recently changed the trans fluid with Redline MT-90 and put in a new marlin shifter seat and bushing.
Thanks a bunch for your input!
In order to have complete disengagement the clutch pedal has to be all the way to the floor, to the point where there's an imprint in the carpet from the pedal. When letting off the clutch it grabs almost right off the floor (obviously) and completely engages about 2/3rds of the way up.
Occasionally when clutching in and sliding the shifter out of gear I feel it grind. It feels like the clutch isn't disengaging all the way despite having the pedal in as far as possible.
Are these the symptoms of a worn clutch? It grabs fine and I haven't noticed any slippage. Or the hydraulic system? Maybe I should flush it out with new fluid, or check the slave. What about adjusting the pedal itself? It seems like the master cylinder rod is screwed out almost all the way.
As well, the clutch pedal bracket is not to blame. Shiny and new with no cracks. I recently changed the trans fluid with Redline MT-90 and put in a new marlin shifter seat and bushing.
Thanks a bunch for your input!
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Have you looked at the clutch bracket in the upper left corner to see if you have a fatigue crack? Stick your head under the dash with a flashlight. Mine did the same thing and it turned out it as cracked and someone had done an ugly job of trying to weld it. There is a forum here that talks about this very subject.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...fatigue-32667/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...fatigue-32667/
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Have you looked at the clutch bracket in the upper left corner to see if you have a fatigue crack? Stick your head under the dash with a flashlight. Mine did the same thing and it turned out it as cracked and someone had done an ugly job of trying to weld it. There is a forum here that talks about this very subject.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...fatigue-32667/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...fatigue-32667/
#6
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Yea, if all those are good, then I have to agree with the above then that you're clutch disc may be worn. Do the fluid thing and then you may have to consider a clutch change. Disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing and pilot bearing.
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I have a gut feeling the clutch is on its way out, but I'm willing to squeeze as much life out of it as I can. On the upside, the Aisin clutch kit on RockAuto is around $160 shipping included. I'll have to bribe my brother-in-law with beer to give me a hand!
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#8
I just replaced the clutch in my 91 p/u. The bracket had been cracked as well as the firewall. Removed and repaired bracket, and welded firewall, but still not engaging. Changed slave cylinder, and Master worked fine.
From a longtime Yota repair mechanic, learned that with all the messing about with the bracket and firewall, the firewall had been pushed out about 1/2 inch. We could hammer the wall back with block and hammer, or weld nut on female end of clutch bracket. Did the latter and it worked great. Clutch engages fully and shifts like a dream.
Didn't want to hammer the firewall back as it may cause further problems with stress and firewall or bracket cracking again.
From a longtime Yota repair mechanic, learned that with all the messing about with the bracket and firewall, the firewall had been pushed out about 1/2 inch. We could hammer the wall back with block and hammer, or weld nut on female end of clutch bracket. Did the latter and it worked great. Clutch engages fully and shifts like a dream.
Didn't want to hammer the firewall back as it may cause further problems with stress and firewall or bracket cracking again.
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