skippinrocks

I've got a head scratcher going on and thought I would reach out to the community for opinions. Most knock sensor questions on the forum refer to checking the codes and replacing the sensor and cable. My 2008 FJ cruiser had a P0328, which is a high input bank 1 sensor 1 code. Engine light and Christmas tree lights were on. It went into limp mode and it locked out overdrive with timing obviously affected. After a lot of research I decided to tackle the dreaded knock sensor replacement, expecting to find some chewed wires. No damage found. I replaced both knock sensors and wire harness anyway with Denso parts and while I was at it I replaced the upstream O2 sensors. Cranked up and the code changed to P0332, which is low input bank 2 sensor 2. I gave up and took it to Toyota and they (understandably) wanted to take the upper and lower intake back off and check my work before doing anything else for $500. Took it back home. I have checked the resistance on both knock sensors and they both sit at 198k ohms, which is optimal. I can switch to VAC on the multimeter and tap on the engine block and see voltage output. I finally ran a can of seafoam through the throttle body and another can in the gas tank. Now, when I drive it for a while I can delete the code and it stays off for as long as I'm driving. But once it cools down and I crank it back up the code comes back. I don't see how the knock sensor could be bad since it does extinguish and stays out sometimes. But I don't know what else to try other than replacing the sensor again. Any ideas?

jeremy harp

does the car have a previous owner ?

MellowMatt

Hey OP, did you ever get this sorted? I am running into almost an identical issues on our 2008 FJ Cruiser.