what emissions crap can i take off my 93 22re and how do i do it?
#81
Registered User
I too am new to the forum and I too am removing the EGR Federal law be damned. It seems most here might know how but are too chicken to do so, heck they're afraid to even talk about doing so. It's your truck, grow a pair and make it like YOU want it. Another thing, Racers don't run EGR on race motors.
#83
Registered User
Yeah but a 22R will never be a race motor. There are parts to build them up, and people DO build them up, but its a waste of time. I love the R-series engines, but strictly for their reliability and simplicity. The racing gets left to my Datsun.
Also, a correctly-maintained EGR system will never hold back a mild street engine. Racers don't install EGR's because they don't legally have to. They don't install them because if that engine needs to be pulled from that car in a ten minute period, the EGR is one less thing to worry about and one less thing to spend money on in the event that it fails.
What an EGR does do is take up a small amount of useable space in the combustion chamber with portions of exhaust to reduce nitrogen oxide deposits.
The removal of emissions equipment is an often misconception between REAL racers and amateur enthusiasts. It was not the addition of emissions components that down-graded performance in the late-70's, but INTERNAL ENGINE modifications that did it.
Poor cylinder head quench design, lowered compression (dished pistons) and retarding ignition timing is some of what caused poor peformance.
Another "unthought concept". In the mid-70's saety regulations were SKY rocketing. Large impact-rated bumpers, side impfact bars, thicker steel paneling, and more luxurious interiors created added weight on many production cars in which POWER was not compensated for this new-founded weight.
Lastly, electronic fuel injection. While EFI originally started in the late-60's, it was a failing concept because of the performance numbers put out by carbureted vehicles. However, you'll notice that EFI in production cars really makes its appearance AS the emissions laws became stringent. The EFI could keep up with smog laws while carburetors began failing miserably. (Cough, 2nd gen Rochester Quadrajunk, cough!)
So, in short. You won't GAIN any HP by removing the "crap". You might THINK so, but more than likely you're just gaining HP lost becasue of poorly maintained components (i.e. carbon-clogged EGR valves).
just my 2 cents. I used to bad mouth emissions like you guys, but after learning how they work it really shines light on the subject.
Also, a correctly-maintained EGR system will never hold back a mild street engine. Racers don't install EGR's because they don't legally have to. They don't install them because if that engine needs to be pulled from that car in a ten minute period, the EGR is one less thing to worry about and one less thing to spend money on in the event that it fails.
What an EGR does do is take up a small amount of useable space in the combustion chamber with portions of exhaust to reduce nitrogen oxide deposits.
The removal of emissions equipment is an often misconception between REAL racers and amateur enthusiasts. It was not the addition of emissions components that down-graded performance in the late-70's, but INTERNAL ENGINE modifications that did it.
Poor cylinder head quench design, lowered compression (dished pistons) and retarding ignition timing is some of what caused poor peformance.
Another "unthought concept". In the mid-70's saety regulations were SKY rocketing. Large impact-rated bumpers, side impfact bars, thicker steel paneling, and more luxurious interiors created added weight on many production cars in which POWER was not compensated for this new-founded weight.
Lastly, electronic fuel injection. While EFI originally started in the late-60's, it was a failing concept because of the performance numbers put out by carbureted vehicles. However, you'll notice that EFI in production cars really makes its appearance AS the emissions laws became stringent. The EFI could keep up with smog laws while carburetors began failing miserably. (Cough, 2nd gen Rochester Quadrajunk, cough!)
So, in short. You won't GAIN any HP by removing the "crap". You might THINK so, but more than likely you're just gaining HP lost becasue of poorly maintained components (i.e. carbon-clogged EGR valves).
just my 2 cents. I used to bad mouth emissions like you guys, but after learning how they work it really shines light on the subject.
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old87yota (06-04-2021)
#84
Registered User
The colder the air, the smaller the air. The smaller the air, the more air you can cram into a cylinder. The more air you can cram in a cylinder the more power you get. Why would you want to heat the intake air?
Where these engines are made, Japan, they don't add the "Only in the US required" EGR systems. Stop believing the brainwashing from the EPA.
Where these engines are made, Japan, they don't add the "Only in the US required" EGR systems. Stop believing the brainwashing from the EPA.
#85
Ok you ned to leave the o2 sensor in so the ecm will be able to monitor or she will run rich as mine did and the injectors will be stuck in a loop.After instlling the o2 sensor and bung my engine was not running rich anymore and power was up abit. Where the o2 gives ecm info on when to open loop and when to close loop. As for the pair system mine was and still is removed. However i did also keep my egr system working as the cyclenders can run hotter without. I was running with no cat and had one installed did not notice a loss of power.
#88
Registered User
I too stripped that crap when I replaced my head a week ago. Blocked off every part. Washed the burnt crap out of the intake. Runs fine, Idles fine, runs cooler, and it looks like I'm getting better mileage. No state inspections in my area. Much cleaner look under the hood too.
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garyd22re (09-26-2020)
#91
Registered User
My mechanic friend had a typical American V8 muscle car and opened the hood for me one day, it just had the engine block with carburator on top, a hose going to the radiator and off to the side was a battery and alternator and a few hoses here and there. I was like "where's all the ... STUFF !?" He just answered, "It has everything it needs." The newer cars, you can barely close the hood because of all the parts under there. I was just impressed how "little" it took to actually build a running engine. I can appreciate that.
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garyd22re (09-26-2020)
#92
When I bought my truck(1994 22RE) it had all the smog but I pulled the motor apart and the oil rings were stuck to the pistons, the valve seals were gone nothing but the metal ring left, and it had a burnt valve. The inside of the motor especially the head was full of carbon from burning oil.
I put in new bearings, rings and timing set along with cleaning out the carbon and rebuilding the head. I removed all the smog including the clogged up catalytic converter.
It runs great now and I may be polluting the air but the last guy with all the smog crap was polluting 10 times what I am. I'm an old school mechanic and I want clean fresh air coming in and exhaust gasses going out.
I put in new bearings, rings and timing set along with cleaning out the carbon and rebuilding the head. I removed all the smog including the clogged up catalytic converter.
It runs great now and I may be polluting the air but the last guy with all the smog crap was polluting 10 times what I am. I'm an old school mechanic and I want clean fresh air coming in and exhaust gasses going out.
Last edited by garyd22re; 09-26-2020 at 04:29 PM.
#93
Are there any Oregon (Portland) folks that might be able to let me know what to expect when I go to DEQ this fall with the 4Runner I just bought having the EGR/PAIR stuff removed? Am I going to need to find it and put it all back on to pass?
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