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I have read that you can remove the oil pan if you loosen a 'front' horizontal bolt on differential and remove 2 bolts at the back. Then I guess the differential can swing down somehow (i suppose either in a backwards or forwards motion). Can anyone confirm for me that this would work and that these bolts in the pictures (the front one and one from the back) are actually the correct bolts to be loosening and removing?
the horizontal bolt at front of differential to loosen? (pointing with pointer) would this be the drivers side bolt at back of differential to remove? (there would be another one just like it towards the passengers side)
You'll probably find it easier to unbolt the front differential crossmember from the frame also. You can leave the axles and driveshaft connected. The differential will then drop down a few inches and hang from these. Since you have ADD, you may have more complications with vacuum lines, hoses, and clearance. When I did this I still couldn't get the oil pan out without removing the oil pickup tube from the block. Then when putting it back together, I had to put the bead of RTV on the pan, lay the oil pickup in the pan, move the whole thing into position, try to install the oil pickup through a tiny gap between the pan and block while not messing up the bead of RTV and working around the front diff, and then bolt the pan on. I wouldn't do it that way again. I'd leave the pan installed if possible.
You'll probably find it easier to unbolt the front differential crossmember from the frame also. You can leave the axles and driveshaft connected. The differential will then drop down a few inches and hang from these. Since you have ADD, you may have more complications with vacuum lines, hoses, and clearance. When I did this I still couldn't get the oil pan out without removing the oil pickup tube from the block. Then when putting it back together, I had to put the bead of RTV on the pan, lay the oil pickup in the pan, move the whole thing into position, try to install the oil pickup through a tiny gap between the pan and block while not messing up the bead of RTV and working around the front diff, and then bolt the pan on. I wouldn't do it that way again. I'd leave the pan installed if possible.
Front differential crossmember - how can i identify that one? Too late for me to leave pan installed - I have already removed 15 of the 18 or so bolts.
I was able to jack up my 87 4runner and put jack stands under the frame.
remove the bolts you have pictured
The bracket needed some serious persuasion to get it to drop out.
I also dropped the torsion bar just 4 bolts
PRACTICE a few " dry runs" putting the oil pan on.
If you do it just right you can get it back on with the gasket sealer on it.
I also had a spotter and extra set of hands to help steady and guide it into place. WITH the oil pickup in place.
I also had to cut the upper corners of the diff cross member to get it back in...
I used the jack to lift it into place.
Last edited by 87-4runner; 02-20-2021 at 06:46 PM.
Thanks for the info regarding getting to the oil pan. Hopefully I can get the access clear enough so that I can put the FIGP onto the pan and get it cleanly seated all with within 5 mins (as the FIGP instruction suggests is required).
Another question I have of the experts is, given that as part of this job I have removed radiator, fan, alternator, power steering pump, timing cover, oil/water pumps - Is there anything else that I should be considering replacing while I have all this stuff off? Note that I am replacing the timing cover, chain, guides, gears, distributor o-rings, and water/oil pumps. Is there anything else that makes sense (other than head gasket which I am still considering). What about things like fuel filter (is that any easier to do at this point) or anything else. I did replace my alt a few years ago so that is good.
Yes, definitely change the fuel filter. It's super easy when the lower intake is out of the way...but you are not going that far. The fuel filter actually installs backwards because of the way the fuel lines are run...fuel flow arrow points toward the fuel tank.
If your truck sounds like my 92 taking off--like a jet engine--consider replacing the radiator fan clutch. I bought an Aisin, and that solved the jet engine problem. The fan blade bolts/nuts can be gnarly looking. I wire brushed all the rust off mine and the blade, and then oiled them before I re-installed the fan clutch.
If you make a couple of dry/ trial runs to make sure you can do it... all I did was gently squeeze it in... the tricky part is KNOWING how to get it over the oil pickup, but it can be done with practice. Then I used the 2 stud bolts and finger tightened those 2 to hold it while I started ALL the other bolts by hand finger tight
then start on the middle and work towards the ends. Going from side to side tightening a little at a time... make couple of passes before your final snug up.
IF THERE IS ANY OIL RESIDUE ANYWHERE on the block or oil pan mounting surfaces it WILL FAIL
IT MUST BE PERFECTLY DRY!!!
Last edited by 87-4runner; 02-22-2021 at 04:36 AM.
While the oil pump is off, check out where the front crankshaft oil seal, which is in the oil pump, and which you should replace any time you pull the oil pump, rides on the crankshaft. After all these years, they can wear a groove in the crankshaft, which will leak oil when the truck is running. "They" make front main oil seals that ride on the crankshaft in a slightly different location, allowing a good seal again.
Of course, if there isn't that deep a groove in the crankshaft, it's no problem, just get a standard seal. Of course, you'll need a new oil pump seal, too.
Also, when you replace the fuel filter, don't forget to replace the crush washers on both ends of it. Never ever reuse ANY crush washer in the fuel system.
While the oil pump is off, check out where the front crankshaft oil seal, which is in the oil pump, and which you should replace any time you pull the oil pump, rides on the crankshaft. After all these years, they can wear a groove in the crankshaft, which will leak oil when the truck is running.
Pat☺
Any such wear groove will be found on the harmonic balancer. Not on the crankshaft.
I linked the correct Toyota seal earlier in the thread. I used one about four years ago on my 92 22RE...no leaks. Cheaper than buying a harmonic balancer at the time.
Had to pinch pennies rebuilding the top end. Stuff like water pumps, oil pump, fan clutch, assembly lube, and etc. start adding up to lots of money.
Thank you all for the tips. yes, I did order that thinner front seal from yotashop - so hopefully that will ensure no leaks out the front. As for the oil pan - I guess one of those studs came right out (the nut was rusted on and the whole stud came out). hopefully I can just put the whole thing back in when I put all the other bolts in without incident - I guess i could try to get that rusted nut off and put the stud back in (that would help with lining up the pan). I wanted to use the toyoto figp stuff because people rave about it being so good but it really doesn't give you much time. The permatex gray or black might give more time but maybe not quite as good to ensure the seal. I will get that fuel filter (although it perhaps isn't necessarily any easier to do it at this point).
I've always used Permatex Ultra Grey. Haven't had any issues. Had to remove a pan I glued on with that stuff once years later and it was very tough to get through.
Last edited by arlindsay1992; 02-22-2021 at 08:28 PM.
While the oil pump is off, check out where the front crankshaft oil seal, which is in the oil pump, and which you should replace any time you pull the oil pump, rides on the crankshaft. After all these years, they can wear a groove in the crankshaft, which will leak oil when the truck is running. "They" make front main oil seals that ride on the crankshaft in a slightly different location, allowing a good seal again.
Of course, if there isn't that deep a groove in the crankshaft, it's no problem, just get a standard seal. Of course, you'll need a new oil pump seal, too.
Also, when you replace the fuel filter, don't forget to replace the crush washers on both ends of it. Never ever reuse ANY crush washer in the fuel system.
Just wanted to throw that out there...
Pat☺
this is maybe the third or fourth time in the last few months you’ve made the statement about the crank, when it is the machined surface of the pulley insert that gets grooved by the front oil seal, not the crankshaft. wear on the front surface of the crank is exceedingly unlikely and rarely happens.
this is maybe the third or fourth time in the last few months you’ve made the statement about the crank, when it is the machined surface of the pulley insert that gets grooved by the front oil seal, not the crankshaft. wear on the front surface of the crank is exceedingly unlikely and rarely happens.
I knew I'd read this misinformation multiple times recently. Didn't realize it was the same guy every time. You're definitely right that the front main seal rides on the balancer, not the crankshaft itself.
Either way I'm definitely going to replace that seal at the front. I think the Aisin oil pump may come with a new one but I have ordered the new sized genuine Toyota one that rides in a slightly different spot.
I bought the OSK kit from 22RE Performance. The front crankshaft seal was a bit thinner than the stock one. It sat farther back on the timing cover when fully seated thus was off the groove made by the stock seal.
I was able to jack up my 87 4runner and put jack stands under the frame.
remove the bolts you have pictured
The bracket needed some serious persuasion to get it to drop out.
I also dropped the torsion bar just 4 bolts
PRACTICE a few " dry runs" putting the oil pan on.
If you do it just right you can get it back on with the gasket sealer on it.
I also had a spotter and extra set of hands to help steady and guide it into place. WITH the oil pickup in place.
I also had to cut the upper corners of the diff cross member to get it back in...
I used the jack to lift it into place.
Ok, I have come to the point of trying to drop this differential so as to allow for the removal/replacement of the oil pan. Actually, even before dropping the differential I have managed to remove 17 of the 18 pan bolts. Anyways, based on what I have been advised here (as well as watching a few videos) it seems that I must remove those two bolts behind the differential that I provided a picture of earlier (they are 19mm) and also remove that bar that runs across the front and under the differential (two 17mm bolts on each side) and then perhaps I also need to loosen (perhaps not remove) the one bolt that the differential is mounted with at the front (a 19mm). I have tried to crack all of these bolts with by breaker bar with zero success so far (I have also sprayed on a little PBBlaster). I'm not sure how much more leverage I should endeavour to apply? Would an air ratchet with impact socket likely be necessary? I do not have one but I could perhaps borrow (or I have even considered buying one). If so, is my Ridgid 6 gal 150 psi compressor adequate? Beyond these 7 bolts I mentioned there are probably a few more if I want to drop those other bars on the passenger side. Any suggestions - should I continue to try and break loose these bolts with more leverage?
Unless they changed the design in later years, the crossmember in front of the front differential is held in with 4 bolts and 4 nuts. I believe the factory orientation is to have the bolt heads at the front and the nuts on the back. Sometimes when stuff is really stuck, you might have better luck turning the nut instead of the bolt. When you turn the bolt, you're also fighting any potential corrosion and friction between the shank of the bolt and the sleeve it's going through. I don't know if you have a torch, but heating up the nut will help. Propane will take a very long time, MAP gas works pretty well for me. Oxy acetylene would work really fast. An impact wrench might work. Impact wrenches need high flow. A bigger hose and high flow fittings makes a big difference. If you have access, it wouldn't hurt to try. Careful with your terminology, an air ratchet is not the same as an impact wrench. An impact wrench makes huge torque by rotationally hammering the fastener. An air ratchet makes way less torque (still enough to twist your wrist if you're not careful), it's just faster than a ratchet by hand. If you haven't already tried, maybe get a long breaker bar, position it on the nuts so that pushing up will loosen the fastener, then use a jack underneath to push up on the end of the handle, effectively using the weight of the truck to push the wrench.
Unless they changed the design in later years, the crossmember in front of the front differential is held in with 4 bolts and 4 nuts. I believe the factory orientation is to have the bolt heads at the front and the nuts on the back. Sometimes when stuff is really stuck, you might have better luck turning the nut instead of the bolt. When you turn the bolt, you're also fighting any potential corrosion and friction between the shank of the bolt and the sleeve it's going through. I don't know if you have a torch, but heating up the nut will help. Propane will take a very long time, MAP gas works pretty well for me. Oxy acetylene would work really fast. An impact wrench might work. Impact wrenches need high flow. A bigger hose and high flow fittings makes a big difference. If you have access, it wouldn't hurt to try. Careful with your terminology, an air ratchet is not the same as an impact wrench. An impact wrench makes huge torque by rotationally hammering the fastener. An air ratchet makes way less torque (still enough to twist your wrist if you're not careful), it's just faster than a ratchet by hand. If you haven't already tried, maybe get a long breaker bar, position it on the nuts so that pushing up will loosen the fastener, then use a jack underneath to push up on the end of the handle, effectively using the weight of the truck to push the wrench.
Thanks for the info and suggestions. Yes, on those crossmember bolts I was attempting to remove the nuts. As for the other bolts (at the back of the differential), I don't think i can get to the nut - was at the bolt head. I do have a propane torch so could give that a try. Yes, sorry I did use the incorrect term - should have said impact wrench (air). I do have a cordless Makita impact driver but I assume that isn't going to help me? If I heat up with propane torch I assume just apply heat directly to nut? As for those bolts in the back perhaps heat isn't the answer because cant get to the nut?
02-20-2021, 03:25 PM
