Yotainmyblood

Its an automatic transmission. The problem was the plug on the cold start injector. And also that the injector will spray even if its warm outside, to help get it started. I heard alot of people say that it only is supposed to spray when its real cold. But thats not right. After my truck sit overnight it would take forever to start. I never thought about the cold start injector until it got cold and it was taking even longer to start. So i had to fix that and that was my problem the whole time. Going by what people say, i wouldn't think it would cause that in the summer time, but it did. I was only worried about having fuel pressure in the rail, because after sitting overnight it was hard to start and i thought that the fuel was running back down the line and therefore taking longer to start. But i was wrong. There was some fuel in the rail, but not under pressure, but it would pressurized as soon as i cranked it or put a jumper in. The (cold) in cold start injector, doesn't mean a certain temp like 45° , it means when the engine is cold ,which can mean 80°- 10° . Those numbers are just for reference and do not represent a certain temp the motor has to be at . I should say that if your motor has not been running in the last 6 hours, It is cold and uses the cold start injector to help it start. Im sure i opened a can of worms with that, and some are going to say that it only sprays when its 32° or whatever outside. Well if you think that, then next time its 70° or so outside and you haven't started your truck in 8 hours or so, then before you crank it, pull the cold start injector out where you can see it spray, and crank it and see if it sprays. I even read somewhere where someone took theres off, but whatever. Mine sprays when its been sitting for several hours and it helps it start no matter what the temp outside is.

Codytr1

I’m glad you got it fixed!!!!

2ToyGuy

I'm glad you got it too.

Having said that, the CSI Timing Switch activates when the COOLANT temp is below 80° C. Even a hot day in Yuma, of which there are numerous ones, after sitting a while the coolant will be below 80° C. That's 176° F, and honestly, as hot and miserable as Yuma is, I've never seen a 176° F day!
So yeah, the CSI will be used when the truck's sat for a while. Yes, when the engine is "cold". A relative term, really, but they do have a specification for the coolant temp for it to activate.

Anywho, glad you solved the problem!
Pat☺

Yotainmyblood

I solved that problem,but now,a month later i started it up to let it run for awhile and while i was running to the store in a different vehicle, i got back and noticed it wasn't running anymore. So i git in it and cranked it and it wouldn't start. I thought it was out of gas. So it set for a couple weeks since I've been rebuilding a 3.4 for another truck. So today i go out to it and check the tank and it has about 2" of gas in it. So i put that jumper in the diagnostic box so when i turn the key to on , i can hear fuel running through the FPR. So i know its getting fuel. So i checked rhe distributor cap and AFM and i cranked it and it would fire once but then just crank. But everytime i would cycle the key it would fire one time. I did this about 30 times and each time it seemed to hit a little longer, then finally it started up and ran about 4or 5 minutes then just died. No spuddering or anything like running out if gas, more like someone just turned the key off. And now it wont start again. Now ive never had this problem before on this truck and the last thing i did to it was i changed out the cold start injector time switch and while i was doing this i accidentally broke the coolant temp sensor. So i had found one that looked brand new in a 4runner that we got from a salvage yard that had a bunch of new parts in it, and that sensor was one of those parts that i put up to keep. So when i broke that one, i knew i had one to replace it and so i did. And then went about fixing the cold start injector and after all that fir several weeks you could get right in and crank it right up. No problems and i thought i was done with it until the other day when i cranked it up to let it run awhile and it died after about ten minutes. And like i said i thought it was just out of gas and didn't bother messing with it till today. Would a wrong coolant temp sensor cause one not to start? Cause im not for sure if its for that motor. It looks just like the old one, and i tested it with hot water before i put it in, but it could be the wrong one? It seemed to work fine for the first month when i would start it up just to let it run, because that truck just sits. Im going back over there tomorrow and im going to put about 5 gal. of gas in it to be sure, then ill get a new coolant temp sensor to be sure i have the right one. But this kinda stumped me this afternoon and i didn't have much time to work on it. But i know the computer could shut it down if it was reading from the coolant sensor. But i did undo the battery cable for about 5 minutes to reset the computer so it would hopefully start if it had a bad reading from the sensor. But it didn't start. And with the jumper wire in, i can hear fuel running through the FPR, so im sure its getting fuel. And it will hit one time as soon as you begin to crank, but wont start. And the way it died when i was standing there, it sounds like its electrical. But ill start with those two things then ill change out the igniter from my truck to see if thats it. Buy if it was a bad AFM, that wouldn't stop it from starting, but i know it would stop it from running, wouldn't it? Ive read all of these threads on this kind of issue, and haven't seen anything that i haven't thought of, other than one guy had a bad wiring plug that plugs into the distributor. So ill check for that also. Anyone have any ideas that are kind of unusual or have heard of an unusual fix for this issue, please let me know. Im not in any big rush, cause its on a 4runner that my buddy brought to sale that i did a headgasket job on last year and after that ive put alot of new parts on it,but not from a running problem. It has always ran just fine when one of us has driven it up town or to the store. But all the plugs and wires and rotor and button were replaced back when I did the heads.

2ToyGuy

A quick note: the fuel pump is cooled by the fuel around it. Could it be, with 2" of fuel in the tank, the fuel pump is overheating and stopping? It doesn't take very much of that, and the fuel pump is shot. It may work cold, but when it warms up, with no fuel to cool it...

Just a thought. It's possible the fuel pump isn't any good any more.
Pat☺

Yotainmyblood

Ok. Thanks for the info. Its a new denso pump. Well, i put it in 5 months ago. And the truck doesn't get driven hardly at all. We driven it up town or to the store, and we crank it up and let it run once a month. So we haven't put 30 miles on it since i did the headgaskets. But, thats why i put that jumper wire in ,so i can hear the fuel flowing through the FPR, so i know its getting fuel. Now if its doing what you say about heating up, that would definitely stop it from running, but shouldn't stop it from starting. If i could have restarted it after i put the jumper in and knew that there was fuel in the rail,then i would have thought it was a fuel issue. But since i couldn't restart it after doing that,im thinking its an electrical issue.