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Knock Sensor Issue.
#21
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http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...e/64tuneup.pdf
#22
Ok got the injector issue worked out. Broken O-ring thank god. No other leaks.
Started working on the timing having a weird issue. I could not find the mark on the harmonic balancer with the timing light. So I rotated the crank found it manually and painted it white. Started the truck back up with timing light on it and the mark was way down at the bottom no where near the timing marks on the block. I turned the dizzy back and fourth and it never came even close to my timing marks... Is it possible to put the harmonic balancer on wrong thus making the mark way way off? I will check with the method in that PDF you just posted tomorrow. Its a little dark out there now and Im tired of messing with it at the moment.Here is what I was seeing. Attached picture I made. The tests I did I did not jump the diagnostic port at that time.
Started working on the timing having a weird issue. I could not find the mark on the harmonic balancer with the timing light. So I rotated the crank found it manually and painted it white. Started the truck back up with timing light on it and the mark was way down at the bottom no where near the timing marks on the block. I turned the dizzy back and fourth and it never came even close to my timing marks... Is it possible to put the harmonic balancer on wrong thus making the mark way way off? I will check with the method in that PDF you just posted tomorrow. Its a little dark out there now and Im tired of messing with it at the moment.Here is what I was seeing. Attached picture I made. The tests I did I did not jump the diagnostic port at that time.
Last edited by tacozod; 09-16-2013 at 05:19 PM.
#25
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I Just went through my timing from the belt to the distributor. The mark on the pulley behind the harmonic balancer is line up with the mark on the oil pump. There is a key that holds the harmonic balancer in line with the pulley. this is what aligns the timing mark on the Harmonic Balancer into the position you show as the right position.
Have you checked the position of your timing mark when your #1 piston is at TDC?
Have you checked the position of your timing mark when your #1 piston is at TDC?
#26
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BUT you can grab the wrong plug wire with the inductive pickup on your timing light. Your drawing looks like you're almost exactly 120° off, which is what you would get connecting to a plug that is not #1.
#27
LOL ok my bad... I'm used to working on 4.3 chevys. damn firing order is completely different. I was on #2 Driver side front cylinder. That makes me feel a little better. And a tad bit stupid.
Last edited by tacozod; 09-16-2013 at 07:59 PM.
#28
Ok here is where I am now... Checked the timing today and with the tuneup page made it easy. I jumped the connector and then put a timing light on it. It was running around 1200 rpm and way advanced. Checking the actual timing I could not get the notch to show up in the degree area no matter how much I turned the dizzy. The closest it would come was just before the degree numbers. So figuring someone stabbed the dizzy in way off I pulled the cap and retaining nut, re stabbed the dizzy and bango had her in range.... Must have been a tooth or so off. Its now idling at 870 rpms and at 10 degrees BTC. No spark rattle at all. One small issue left is it still has a bit of a stumble in the rpms. Atleast its drivable now. Need to get emissions on the truck but don't know if it will pass since you cant hold a steady 2500 rpm without it stumbling. Pulling the plugs and wires later to check them for issues. But thanks to everyone it surely is helping me narrow down the issues.
#29
Registered User
Ok here is where I am now... Checked the timing today and with the tuneup page made it easy. I jumped the connector and then put a timing light on it. It was running around 1200 rpm and way advanced. Checking the actual timing I could not get the notch to show up in the degree area no matter how much I turned the dizzy. The closest it would come was just before the degree numbers. So figuring someone stabbed the dizzy in way off I pulled the cap and retaining nut, re stabbed the dizzy and bango had her in range.... Must have been a tooth or so off. Its now idling at 870 rpms and at 10 degrees BTC. No spark rattle at all. One small issue left is it still has a bit of a stumble in the rpms. Atleast its drivable now. Need to get emissions on the truck but don't know if it will pass since you cant hold a steady 2500 rpm without it stumbling. Pulling the plugs and wires later to check them for issues. But thanks to everyone it surely is helping me narrow down the issues.
#30
Don't mean to correct here, but the OP is right it should be a 10* BTDC. This is a 3VZE, not a 22RE. See below on page EG2-26.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...e/64tuneup.pdf
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...e/64tuneup.pdf
Thanks for the catch I would have hated to give wrong information.
Last edited by Kiroshu; 09-17-2013 at 05:16 PM.
#31
^-- X2 also on letting the truck "get used to" the new parts. But something else is more than likely amiss as these trucks are usually self taught and as an OBDI setup should operate normally to the ROM stored on the computer as long as the normal parts/conditions are there.
Good deal on fixing your timing problem ^_^
Possible EGR valve faulty..? (Opening too early on accel and or stuck open slightly...?)
Good deal on fixing your timing problem ^_^
Possible EGR valve faulty..? (Opening too early on accel and or stuck open slightly...?)
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