How to go about cleaning AFM?
12-06-2006, 02:38 PM
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How to go about cleaning AFM?
Howdy,
I've narrowed my engine problem down to the AFM itself, as I can jump the fuel pump and it starts fine (just idles a little high). Engine will not fire otherwise. I thought maybe it would need replacing, but i've fixed almost everything using nothing, can't give up now.
Truck is a 86' 4Runner 22RE, and this is the last obsticle before it becomes daily drivable. I see in the FSM there are procedures to testing the AFM, but can't do that until I can obtain an ohm meter.
Are there any tricks to cleaning it maybe? I've read through numerous threads where owners have cleaned their v6 MAF. I know it's different, but are there any similar cleaning methods for an air flow meter?
I've narrowed my engine problem down to the AFM itself, as I can jump the fuel pump and it starts fine (just idles a little high). Engine will not fire otherwise. I thought maybe it would need replacing, but i've fixed almost everything using nothing, can't give up now.
Truck is a 86' 4Runner 22RE, and this is the last obsticle before it becomes daily drivable. I see in the FSM there are procedures to testing the AFM, but can't do that until I can obtain an ohm meter.
Are there any tricks to cleaning it maybe? I've read through numerous threads where owners have cleaned their v6 MAF. I know it's different, but are there any similar cleaning methods for an air flow meter?
12-06-2006, 07:40 PM
#4
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theres not really much to clean on it. Just take the intake box off, and make sure that the plate moves smoothly in it, and that nothing is blocking it.
there are some adjustments you can make to the spring to adjust the fuel mix if i remember correctly people used to do that on celicas.
there are some adjustments you can make to the spring to adjust the fuel mix if i remember correctly people used to do that on celicas.
12-07-2006, 05:26 AM
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Haha, I'll tell you what's up with those screws--considering that's how I broke mine last month. It's the socket to the AFM plug. When you pull that, you pull wires and other connections. I was quoted $650 for the part and $200 for the labor. I found the AFM on Ebay for $45 and I did the labor myself (10 minute job). I still have no idea why they wanted so much for labor. Sounds like a scam to me...
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12-07-2006, 05:51 AM
#8
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labor is done by the book. theres an estimating book, and it says the number of hours to bill for each job. they overestimate so they dont have cost overruns when they run into other problems.
Soposedly the connections can be fixed with solder if you're careful after accidentally tearing it apart.
Soposedly the connections can be fixed with solder if you're careful after accidentally tearing it apart.
12-07-2006, 07:08 AM
#9
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labor is done by the book. theres an estimating book, and it says the number of hours to bill for each job. they overestimate so they dont have cost overruns when they run into other problems.
Soposedly the connections can be fixed with solder if you're careful after accidentally tearing it apart.
Soposedly the connections can be fixed with solder if you're careful after accidentally tearing it apart.
If you really want to open it up, take a box cutter and cut the sealant around the top and pry the cover off. Shouldn't need to do that though unless you take out those screws and rip the thin foil strips that connect to the circut board.
12-07-2006, 11:10 AM
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12-07-2006, 04:20 PM
#12
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Well the screws aren't making the connection, but the screws are all that keeps you from tearing a couple of thin strips of foil that are making the connection. Stupid, they should have put rivets or welded it shut.
12-07-2006, 04:21 PM
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Howdy,
I've narrowed my engine problem down to the AFM itself, as I can jump the fuel pump and it starts fine (just idles a little high). Engine will not fire otherwise. I thought maybe it would need replacing, but i've fixed almost everything using nothing, can't give up now.
Truck is a 86' 4Runner 22RE, and this is the last obsticle before it becomes daily drivable. I see in the FSM there are procedures to testing the AFM, but can't do that until I can obtain an ohm meter.
Are there any tricks to cleaning it maybe? I've read through numerous threads where owners have cleaned their v6 MAF. I know it's different, but are there any similar cleaning methods for an air flow meter?
I've narrowed my engine problem down to the AFM itself, as I can jump the fuel pump and it starts fine (just idles a little high). Engine will not fire otherwise. I thought maybe it would need replacing, but i've fixed almost everything using nothing, can't give up now.
Truck is a 86' 4Runner 22RE, and this is the last obsticle before it becomes daily drivable. I see in the FSM there are procedures to testing the AFM, but can't do that until I can obtain an ohm meter.
Are there any tricks to cleaning it maybe? I've read through numerous threads where owners have cleaned their v6 MAF. I know it's different, but are there any similar cleaning methods for an air flow meter?
If it is bad, it is not a matter of cleaning. There is predictable wear on the phenolic surface the pickup rides on. The part is expensive new, so if you don't get a new one, get one with as few miles on the truck as you can find. You can pick up a used one for $75 or so. I went for a new one, as I intend to keep the truck. I think the part is good for about 200k miles new.
12-07-2006, 04:52 PM
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I'd go back a step, and get an inexpensive digital ohmeter at Radio Shack (for instance). That will tell you whether its bad.
If it is bad, it is not a matter of cleaning. There is predictable wear on the phenolic surface the pickup rides on. The part is expensive new, so if you don't get a new one, get one with as few miles on the truck as you can find. You can pick up a used one for $75 or so. I went for a new one, as I intend to keep the truck. I think the part is good for about 200k miles new.
If it is bad, it is not a matter of cleaning. There is predictable wear on the phenolic surface the pickup rides on. The part is expensive new, so if you don't get a new one, get one with as few miles on the truck as you can find. You can pick up a used one for $75 or so. I went for a new one, as I intend to keep the truck. I think the part is good for about 200k miles new.
12-07-2006, 04:59 PM
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12-07-2006, 07:55 PM
#17
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radio shack and sears both sell cheap digital multi meters (sub $20).
Its an extremely useful tool for all sorts of electrical work, and definately worth having.
Its an extremely useful tool for all sorts of electrical work, and definately worth having.
12-07-2006, 08:58 PM
#18
$2.99 at Harbor Freight:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=90899
I need to pick up a few more, someone stole one out of my truck's glove box last summer.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=90899
I need to pick up a few more, someone stole one out of my truck's glove box last summer.
12-08-2006, 06:52 AM
#20
Mine have been working great, carry one in each vehicle (until some low life ripped off one). They are a decent meter, handle 20 amps on DC current and have a diode and transistor test function also. And at the price, if something happens to it, oh well!
