Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: Exterior Guides
- Toyota 4Runner 1984-1995 How to Repair Hood Release Latch
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
Browse all: Exterior Guides
hood release cable broke!
#23
Registered User
My hood cable developed too much slack and started randomly popping the little ball out from the mechanism, I finally said screw it and put a zip tie on the left side of the little white plastic part and it hangs down to right under my grille..Just pull it, WhaLA !
#24
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Northern Colorado :-(
Posts: 1,758
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
I'm definitely going to get another cable online. I'm looking on ebay and found a couple, but is there anywhere online that sells them (besides the factory/dealer)?
#26
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Northern Colorado :-(
Posts: 1,758
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Yes. That little red plastic thing isn't on my cable. What's happening is the cable isn't being pulled out enough from the plastic sheath. Nothing is pushing/holding the sheath back, and thus the cable just keeps coming out and generating more slack. I think maybe that's what that red thing is...I can only guess, since I dont have one.
I think for now, until I get the cable, I'm going to just bypass the release lever and pull the cable through the dash, that way I can just pull out the cable straight from under the dash. Even if I get my new cable soon, I can't install the cable in this weather. I just changed the oil 2 days ago in 0 degree heat (heh,heat...i make joke) and it was miserable. I doubt I'll want to remove the radiator in this temperature to replace a cable.
It's essential I rig this so the hood can open because as I mentioned, I just changed the oil and I need to monitor the oil level so I can add it when it burns some.
Hood pins are still on my options list.
I think for now, until I get the cable, I'm going to just bypass the release lever and pull the cable through the dash, that way I can just pull out the cable straight from under the dash. Even if I get my new cable soon, I can't install the cable in this weather. I just changed the oil 2 days ago in 0 degree heat (heh,heat...i make joke) and it was miserable. I doubt I'll want to remove the radiator in this temperature to replace a cable.
It's essential I rig this so the hood can open because as I mentioned, I just changed the oil and I need to monitor the oil level so I can add it when it burns some.
Hood pins are still on my options list.
Last edited by DupermanDave; 12-16-2008 at 12:05 PM.
#27
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: middle of no where Alaska
Posts: 4,355
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
the red thing doesnt matter. its like just trim...the black sheath is supposed to be stuck on the bracket thingy behind the lever......
Maybe yours is messed up...but whenever mine used to jiggle loose, I had the same problem as you are, but once I put it back on the bracket, it was okay.
Yours may be different though
Good luck
Maybe yours is messed up...but whenever mine used to jiggle loose, I had the same problem as you are, but once I put it back on the bracket, it was okay.
Yours may be different though
Good luck
#30
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Northern Colorado :-(
Posts: 1,758
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Just FYI, in case anyone was wondering what happened to my cable, i figured it out.
The plastic sheath around the cable has 2 parts: an outside (thing) sheath and a thicker inner sheath. The inner sheath is what the stopper pushes against and pulls the cable through the outer sheath. The inner and outer covers both peeled back to the point where I have a few inched of slack, because the inner sheath just goes right past the metal stopper.
RIght now I have it rigged where the plastic pull lever is removed and in the glove box, and the cable is just dangling out. Looks ghetto and ugly, but it's a temp fix for when I order a new cable. I suppose I can patch this one up, but I'd feel safer knowing the new cable will function for another 236,000 miles, or 20 years.
The plastic sheath around the cable has 2 parts: an outside (thing) sheath and a thicker inner sheath. The inner sheath is what the stopper pushes against and pulls the cable through the outer sheath. The inner and outer covers both peeled back to the point where I have a few inched of slack, because the inner sheath just goes right past the metal stopper.
RIght now I have it rigged where the plastic pull lever is removed and in the glove box, and the cable is just dangling out. Looks ghetto and ugly, but it's a temp fix for when I order a new cable. I suppose I can patch this one up, but I'd feel safer knowing the new cable will function for another 236,000 miles, or 20 years.
#32
Contributing Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 9,055
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
on
5 Posts
Thats the same thing that happend to mine. The outer sheath came apart and frayed. This let the inner cable just pull more and more.
Bought a used one for $25 (damn you guys and your good prices!). I was told this is a long job, not hard just long.....
Looks like I will be doing it in the snow tomorrow!
Bought a used one for $25 (damn you guys and your good prices!). I was told this is a long job, not hard just long.....
Looks like I will be doing it in the snow tomorrow!
#33
Hood Release Happened to me also - 94 pickup 4x2 22re
It happened to me also; the hood would not open on my stock 1994 pickup. I can't open it. I bought a part (new cable) to replace the old cable - P# 53630-89114; Google that number to buy it or just look at it.
Mine cost $37 from a Toyota dealership in Denver, CO. I could not find it at regular parts store; to specialized I guess?
My 94 interior latch doesn't seem to be broken - (separated) there is tension when I pull it - just something about it being old (the black plastic casing or/and connectors are likely worn out). There is a green plastic nob/a lip on the interior end of the cable where the cable comes out and a round metal ball at the other end. The green end has a silver metal stopper on the outside of the black cable casing about 14" down - this stopper is where the cable meets the interior fire wall and then goes out into the left side corner pannel.
I've tried to attache some pictures of the part and my 4 x 2.
%20%20%20%20[/IMG]
Mine cost $37 from a Toyota dealership in Denver, CO. I could not find it at regular parts store; to specialized I guess?
My 94 interior latch doesn't seem to be broken - (separated) there is tension when I pull it - just something about it being old (the black plastic casing or/and connectors are likely worn out). There is a green plastic nob/a lip on the interior end of the cable where the cable comes out and a round metal ball at the other end. The green end has a silver metal stopper on the outside of the black cable casing about 14" down - this stopper is where the cable meets the interior fire wall and then goes out into the left side corner pannel.
I've tried to attache some pictures of the part and my 4 x 2.
%20%20%20%20[/IMG]
Last edited by clearpepsi; 07-16-2013 at 04:32 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jasonty
Pre 84 Trucks (Build-Up Section)
41
12-23-2018 01:00 PM