First Time Head Gasket and Timing Chain Questions
09-09-2015, 07:58 AM
#22
Little confusing?
I'm doing the head gasket and timing chain on my 1988 Pickup with a 22re because it was overheating and compression test / block test suggested that it was a headgasket failure. (Exhaust fumes in the coolant).
Took the head to the machine shop to get it inspected and resurfaced but they said it was too warped to repair and that my cam and rockers weren't usable anymore either. I didn't get my block checked out because I don't have a hoist to pull it out and I don't own a precision ruler / straight edge. Where can I get a decent straight edge that isn't too pricey?
Now I'm shopping for a new head, cam, valves, rockers, and a timing chain set. I know engnbldr has a good reputation but is there anything else? Also, what benefits would I get from buying the street rv head with stock everything else? My block has about 130k miles on it without a rebuild if that matters. I don't think engnbldr sells rockers so where can I get those?
I saw a few heads on ebay for around 260 complete with a cam, valves and springs. Are they reliable?
Also my coolant passages looked partially plugged in the block, Do I just scrape out the garbage with a gasket scraper or what is the correct way to do it?
I can post pictures soon.
Took the head to the machine shop to get it inspected and resurfaced but they said it was too warped to repair and that my cam and rockers weren't usable anymore either. I didn't get my block checked out because I don't have a hoist to pull it out and I don't own a precision ruler / straight edge. Where can I get a decent straight edge that isn't too pricey?
Now I'm shopping for a new head, cam, valves, rockers, and a timing chain set. I know engnbldr has a good reputation but is there anything else? Also, what benefits would I get from buying the street rv head with stock everything else? My block has about 130k miles on it without a rebuild if that matters. I don't think engnbldr sells rockers so where can I get those?
I saw a few heads on ebay for around 260 complete with a cam, valves and springs. Are they reliable?
Also my coolant passages looked partially plugged in the block, Do I just scrape out the garbage with a gasket scraper or what is the correct way to do it?
I can post pictures soon.
So it locked up? Either there was radiator fluid in the cylinder or you mashed some valves. More damage!
I think you have three options:
1 Pull the engine and do a complete rebuild. Boring, new bearings, new pistons, new head and valves. [probably not an option]
2 Drop in a rebuilt or used engine.
3 Sell the truck as is and get something reliable that you can get you through school.
Good luck!
09-09-2015, 10:02 AM
#23
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I've been calling around looking for a short block but no one has any. I already have a rebuilt head. Anyone know where I can find one? I'm located in Northern California.
09-09-2015, 10:12 AM
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09-12-2015, 10:03 PM
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I noticed that my crank pulley was a little dinged on the power steering pulley side. It might've happened when I pulled out the old block, I don't really know. Is it a big deal? In the haynes manual it says that it'll tear up the belts but I'd like some confirmation. I was thinking about leaving it and if it does cause a failure in power steering it wouldn't be the end of the world, just means I need to fix it.
09-13-2015, 08:15 AM
#28
"dinged"? Sharp edges or points or just a slight bend? Perhaps put a new belt on with no damage. Inspect it for damage and if its degrading then you know you are going to have to fix it or replace it.
09-16-2015, 02:13 PM
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Finished everything today. I've only put a few miles on it so I'll wait a while before I check out the PS belt. The valves are also kinda loud but that might be because I adjusted them to 8 and 12 thousanths cold. I'll re do them while it's hot. Any actual problems associated with loud valves?
09-16-2015, 03:41 PM
#31
Theoretically they should measure tighter when they are hot. I think I did mine .006 on the intake and .012 on the exhaust hot. I've read lots from mechanics about their "favorite" lash. Sounds like you should be fine. Adjust them after you think everything has been broken in. 50-100 miles. Maybe others will chime in.
09-17-2015, 04:42 AM
#32
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you may be loosing oil pressure somewhere. they could also be really off. either way even a little bit loose they should not be making noise. i would run the rack again asap. if you find it's not far off, setting it up to run with the valve cover off is one of the best ways to see oil flow problems.
09-17-2015, 10:33 PM
#33
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I redid the valves hot and it got a bit quieter. Seems to be quieting down or I'm just getting used to it. I'm currently looking for an oil pressure gauge, water temp, and voltmeter to install in the truck.
09-21-2015, 11:57 AM
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09-21-2015, 12:24 PM
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I'm pretty sure that's what he means.
But I was turned onto this http://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools...d-restorer-set by one of Yotatech's members. Unlike a tap, they have a negative rake, so they are not likely to remove any metal. It's a full set, so I found myself idly running the various male and female restorers over all my fasteners before installing them. A little pricey to buy, but you can borrow it (as in: free) from Autozone.
But I was turned onto this http://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools...d-restorer-set by one of Yotatech's members. Unlike a tap, they have a negative rake, so they are not likely to remove any metal. It's a full set, so I found myself idly running the various male and female restorers over all my fasteners before installing them. A little pricey to buy, but you can borrow it (as in: free) from Autozone.
09-21-2015, 03:06 PM
#36
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Ok thanks. I was going to DIY a thread chaser like this guy did
Inexpensive thread chaser
Edit: I might need to do the diy one instead my threads are for the head bolts. That kit will not go deep enough.
Inexpensive thread chaser
Edit: I might need to do the diy one instead my threads are for the head bolts. That kit will not go deep enough.
Last edited by Obmi; 09-22-2015 at 03:12 PM.
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