element138

So I'm arranging for a haul back to my driveway in Asheville where I can work on it with my tools and my own bed. I think fuel pump or filter now, I'll pull the fuel filter, activate the fuel pump and see if I get pressure out. After putting in a new starter. We'll see. Any thoughts?

ksti

It sounds definitely fuel related. But what's weird to me is that you said cylinders got flooded.
Just sorry this happened far from home especially on the holidays.
Good luck and post back when you find out what the issue was.

ksti

Sorry duplicated

Chip N Sawbones

What's wrong with the starter? If it isn't cranking anymore, you need to put the battery on a charger or swap the battery with a good one from another car. If you've tried that, check the fuses before replacing the starter. My old Tercel wagon used to blow the ignition fuse whenever I tried starting with an extremely cold engine and a low battery.

The fuel pump isn't too difficult to test. If your '85 22RE is the same as my '89, turn the ignition switch to on but don't start the engine. Use a wire to connect B+ and FP in the data link connector. This should make the fuel pump run. You may be able to hear it, and if you put your hand on the gas tank you should feel it vibrating.

When I ran outboard motors, I always had problems with the fuel filters filling up with water. Even if there wasn't water visible in the gas tank, the filter would be full of water and the engine would have the same symptoms of rough running, poor idle and difficulty starting that you originally described. If the fuel pump is working, depressurize the fuel line and remove and drain the fuel filter. If you see water in the fuel, my remedy was to add a little dry gas directly in the fuel filter.

If that isn't the solution, I'll turn it over to the pros on this forum because I'm stumped.

element138

It it weird, thinking that the fuel pump could have been haywire broken, sending too much or not enough intermittently? maybe the open circuit relay also. Going to diagnose when I get it down to avl. The diag codes said, amongst other things, all point to ecu. I hope it's not the damn ecu

element138

The starter just barely chugs forward maybe half a turn, battery could be suspect but I charges the hell out of it and the headlights are bright as ever when I turn them on. Not the most scientific battery test but...I'll run the pump test and then pull the filter and check that out. Thanks for all the advice everyone. Left my truck in salem til the 26th im hauling it back. Results pending...

ksti

Asheville, Are you near the Smoky Mountains? My sister lives in Newport NC, wants to move near the Smoky's.

Chip N Sawbones

Keep charging the battery then. The starter isn't broken if it moves the engine at all. The headlights can still be fairly bright even with a low battery.

element138

the Smokies are about an hour from here, Asheville is highly recommended if she's looking to move to the mountains.

I'll hold off on ordering a replacement. I just can't wait to get this thing back on the road!

ksti

Good,
Then that means it's not going off the cliff.

element138

got it back to asheville.....................

pressure tested the fuel pump by jumping the wire that forces power through the fuel pump. Fuel pressure reads 38psi at the line into the cold start injector(which is normal).

Pulled the electrical plug off the #1 injector, tested with noid light with key in the on position and no signal there. one interesting thing is that (with key on on position) I am getting 12v readings on BOTH of the leads in the injector plug. Is that normal?

I have checked all 4 engine grounds and I'm not seeing any really frayed wires anywhere.

Also, my battery was completely dead, had to replace it and the new specimen cranks the starter right up.

thoughts???

element138

update

I disconnected the ECU and tested the #1 injector, still showing 12v at both leads of the wire. (i have the multimeter negative on the battery negative, the meter positive on the leads of the injector wire. with the motor not running and the key turned to the ON position)

I have a guy with an ECU but I don't want to blow out another ECU if something in the injectors is the original culprit.

does anyone know if, under the described circumstances, both leads of the injector wire should be showing 12v?

element138

Tested the 3 and 4 injector wires, all show the same 12v on both leads. Also tested the resistance of each injector, 1, 3 and 4 all show 2.8 ohms(within spec). Didn't try the #2 injector as its nearly impossible to reach. (Those plugs are a bastard to pull without breaking)

Anyway, thoughts?

element138

RESOLVED!!!!!

at long last, I can announce to ye all: it was the ECU

just washed three weeks of grease from my soul and am gearing up for a ride around town!

thanks for your help erybody, until next time...keep on keepin on

JohnnyCanuck

nice!