Azusacanyonbogger

as the title states my damn clutch pedal assembly broke!! i previously replaced this with another used one that i bought,(which was already welded from the guy i bought it from!) then the one i removed from my truck appears to be a brand new factory peice which was replaced about 2 years prior!! whats with this peice of junk bracket!! is this a common thing? i assume it is since my experience with it.

is there any recall for this? or any aftermarket stronger assmbly? or a way to strengthen it? i'm pretty much sick of this damn thing leaving me stuck having to float the gears just to get home and using the clutch start cancel to start the truck! and now it fully broke and wont even go in gear unless i float gears.. ! i'm taking it out and going to weld the hell out of it with multiple brackets and a brace because the factory design is SO weak...

ok end rant!!

TNRabbit

I've NEVER broken mine in 230,000 miles. What the heck are you DOING to it?!?

"Centerforce dual friction clutch"----what's the lb/pressure of your clutch?

Azusacanyonbogger

daily driving it for the past year. havent even had a chance to take it offroad as i've working on my racecar instead.... and the centerforce dual friction is a mild clutch.. actually i think its a peice of crap because it still slips and doesnt seem to hold very well at all (not what i thought it would anyway). easy pedal pressure not hard on the pedal at all. feels like a stock clutch. maybe if i had a really hard dual diaghram pressure plate i could understand. but this is not that harsh on the pedal.

Azusacanyonbogger

well apparently its a known problem. not sure why there isnt a recall on this POS!!! checking on various forums and everyone seems to have the same problem. well mine is hopefully solved.. welded the living hell out of it.. gusseted it everywhere possible so i'm almost certain there is no way it will break again!!

tnactsuj

I'm in the middle of a basketcase-never serviced-abused-stepchild rebuild of an 89 22re runner and mine looks good . one of the only things I haven't had to replace on mine. maybe the welding will prevent more down time for you though.I'm first name basis at O'reilly.It's not as cool as it sounds.It sounds a lot like KA-ching$$$$$.

Fo by Fo

i know mine is starting to crack on my 91 4runner, i can feel it flexing a little bit.

Azusacanyonbogger

its starts off like that. then you will have to push a little harder to get it to engage the clutch start button. then it will become a little harder to get into reverse and will slightly grind into reverse. then it will not start anymore by pushing in the clutch and you'll have to use the clutch start cancel button. then it will fullly break and you will be stuck somewhere. i'd just take it out now and weld the living hell out of it. brackets and braces and gusset it everywhere possible!

Flash319

Does anyone have pictures of where it cracks? I would like to check mine as the start point has changed. I have to hold it right to the floor.

Azusacanyonbogger

up near the left corner. it cracks right where the stud is. hard to see it when its in there though. if you are having to push it all the way to the floor i can almost guarantee its about to go.... its not too difficult to take out. if you want i have one already braced for sale. $100 shipped.

TNRabbit

You have pics of it? I'd be interested in seeing the mod.

Fo by Fo

How hard is it to remove? From what I remember it looked like it would be a real PITA.

LS1Steve

mine broke, i removed it, welded, then put back and it broke again.

you have to do a nice weld job and reinforce it on the inner area. It is a pain in the ass to remove, but you'd be surprised how much easier it is the second time around. It is a 1 1/2hr job now for me.

the key is....make a quality repair!!!! reinforce!

LS1Steve

you have to remove all the linkage underneath, loosen and slide steering column clamp off, detach all connectors, and unbolt a few nuts (i think 6...slim air wrench is a must). To create room, after removing the nuts, you have to pull the brake booster away from firewall under the hood, so that you can back those bolts away enough to slide the bracket out.

Azusacanyonbogger

sorry i don't have any pics. but you really have to weld the living hell out of it.. on the crack. and then gussets. then a support to strengthen the integrity of the entire peice.. if you take it out its the flimsiest peice of garbage ever.. so i added some braces to stop the flex (which i think contributes to the breakage)..

Azusacanyonbogger

Too true!!! mine was welded and broke again too!!! now i think i can set a grenade off and it won't break...

not too difficult to remove it takes me about 1/2 hour to 45 mins.. i just take the brake pedal off and manouver it out in one peice. its easier to remove if you drop the steering column, but then you have more to remove and bolt back up! its a personal preference on how you want to do it.. i prefer to just take the brake pedal off and remove it without dropping the steering.

Morphine

It is a real PITA but it is definitely a doable task for any "at home mechanic". I mean I did it with the help of Morphiasx. I removed and reinstalled it, he welded it.

Pointers:
1.) Remove the drivers seat if possible.
2.) Plenty of daylight. When you put it back in, you don't want it to be dark or getting dark.
3. Patience

I'll snap some pics later and post them up. All we did was reweld the corner so no mods or improvements. Just repaired it.

-=Morphine=-

LS1Steve

forgot that part....that is a MUST or you will go insane trying to squeeze around there

pete f

Mine broke in the upper left corner of the bracket . It started about an inch from the fire wall on the left side about an 1 inch from the firewall and ran towards the fire wall. I took a piece of rope and pulled the clutch pedal back to the 6 inch spec for pedal height. I tied it off to the door support this pulled the steel back together then I drilled and through-bolted it to the firewall with a big washer to press on the crack. Then used plumber epoxy putty and put a wad in the corner to brace it a little and a wad on the threads so the nut doesn't back off and it's working great.

Morphine

Ok I will first apologize about the pics because they aren't the best. I took these today with it still installed in my truck. Anyone who has ever replaced/repaired this, they know what a PITA it is to get too. So here it goes....

This first one I tried to outline the general area. Like I said the pics aren't that great but you can see the aftermath of the welding.











I hope this helps some for in the future.

-=Morphine=-

Swank

Yeah mine just broke again for the 2nd time. Last time I pulled the clutch master out and welded it in the truck with a blanket and spray bottle (extinguisher standing close by). It worked for about 9 months. This time the POS is coming out and getting tig welded.