Gshock

Well, I think the issue to begin with is was that the engine had a bad valve cover leak. Since they steamed clean the engine that's like bleaching bloody walls at a crime scene, all the evidence would be hard to see.

I have this theory that they must have installed RTV sealant or some ghetto rig job on the valve cover that was leaking. In a attempt for the engine to survive the warranty period than fail..

So buy the time I had the oil change done, I'd actually had the tech come up and look and tell me that was knock. Before He'd even worked on it. So from the time I bought it, all that heat must have failed something internally. I never had a indication that it was overheating. Such as engine temp or coolant boiling over, everything was in the normal range. No CEL being thrown. I know It's OBD1 type system, i'm more familiar with type 2. But still...

I've actually dig up a unbelievable amount of dirt on the owner of the car lot. For instance he was a previous owner of another lot owned for years by his family and I checked out who the owner was on the County's records office, and low and behold it was him. He has 8 BBB complaints.

93toyrunner2

Strange engine noise can be caused by low oil levels, over filled engine oil, not changing the oil for a long time, etc. Have you pulled out the engine oil dipstick and checked the oil level to make sure that it is not low, black and cruddy looking, or even overfilled? You mentioned that after the oil change the noise seemed to go away for a while, then came back. Oil sludge can be moved around by changing the oil, and then reposition itself to clog up oil passages etc, once you drive it around for a while.

Gshock

Update

Their contracted mechanics called us back and told us its the valve shims, their pretty much maxed out some more than others. And that mechanically theirs nothing wrong with the engine. Anyways we managed to take pics and this is what the valve train looks like. ( Driverside) Is it possible for worn out valve shims to make such as dramatic sound like the video I posted above? All the mechanics kept saying was " Its amazing condition for its age".

It would cost 500-600 for all 24 shims to replaced.

93toyrunner2

My previous 3.0 had such a racket under the hood when driving at highway speeds, it sounded like I was in a clothing factory with all the sowing machines running at the same time. I would say yes, it is possible.
That price is not too bad. The dealer once quoted me $800-$1000 for the same job. If it was mine, I would just put the cover back on, change the oil to Valvoline VR1 20W-50, and put some Lucas in it. I actually have some sound deadening insulation under my hood from the previous engine noise period, and it helped reduce the noise level quite a bit.

Gshock

Mine doesn't really sound like a sewing a machine. I found this video of a WRX which has ' piston slap' that sounds exactly like my video. So out of spec valve and the piston hitting against it, could possibly make that sound right?

Infact I don't know if they even looked at the pistons and the lower end. Since the mechanic and dealer are friends this just be a tacit used to get me out of their hair. So I don't really trust them at all to be honest.

[YOUTUBE]http://youtu.be/oQELTwI6Qk0[/YOUTUBE]

93toyrunner2

Have you ever done a compression test to check your bottom end?

Gshock

They said it has good compression all the way around

93toyrunner2

What were the wet and dry numbers?

Gshock

Update I was able to get the car home. Apparently the noise was caused by a collapsed valve lifter, and they also replaced all 24 valve shims. The thing that struck me as odd on the invoice is that they put 20w-50 inside. I asked why not the usual 10W-40? " He said a Toyota tech recommended a heavier weight" After doing research on the fourms I don't think that's the best for a 3VZFE 3.0 Toooo heavy.

I suspect that it might have been added to silence any noise with a heavier weight. Seems quiet now. I'm affraid what will happen if I decide to switch back to 10W40 as per OEM. It's ok I got a extended warranty.

But I'm just happy to have it back .

93toyrunner2

I do not want to start an oil viscosity war, but I also run 20w-50 Valvoline VR-1 Racing oil in my 3VZE. I have noticed a decrease in MPG, dropping from 17.5 to 16.3. I have always used 20w-50 in my motors after 75k miles.

Gshock

I've noticed it has a hard time starting, its kinda sluggish compared to the 10W40 weight I'm used to. I guess the train of thought from the other research I did on the forums,lead me to believe that the thicker weight would have a harder time reaching tighter areas of the engine to lubricate properly no?

93toyrunner2

That is why I use the Valvoline VR-1. It contains the highest levels of Zinc of any on-road oil. There are a few "racing only" options with more, but they will burn out the cat. On cold starts, I do not start it up and take off, I always let it warm up a minute or two, allowing the oil to circulate. My oil pressure has increased by 20% over what I had using Castrol 10W-40 for older vehicles.

Gshock

If I'm not using VR1 there's no real benefit for me using their recommended oil. Should I switch back to 10W40?

93toyrunner2

You decide. The cap on my valve cover says use 10W-30. They may be running the heavier oil during break in period for the repair.

Gshock

Update*


I took the car to a Independent Toyota mechanic, one of their mechanics used a stethoscope and claims he pinpointed the sound coming from the timing belt area. He says one of the main bearings(tensioner) or smaller bearings is making that sound, or the belt is rubbing. I'm totally blown away by that. He says it doesn't like knock he's heard of before.

Interesting thats for sure.


Any thoughts on this?