3.4 swap price
#41
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#42
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I said mileage wasnt important because you would rebuild it.
Economically speaking say you rebuilt and significantly refreshed alot of things in the truck (you do the work)--Say 7-9k...and that is being high. now you have a great truck and it was way cheaper than the $400 month payment for 4-6 years. Look--> 400 month x 12 months equals the rebuild, then the next year you equal your other repairs/upgrades. Two year payment plan instead of 4-6.
Economically speaking say you rebuilt and significantly refreshed alot of things in the truck (you do the work)--Say 7-9k...and that is being high. now you have a great truck and it was way cheaper than the $400 month payment for 4-6 years. Look--> 400 month x 12 months equals the rebuild, then the next year you equal your other repairs/upgrades. Two year payment plan instead of 4-6.
#43
Contributing Member
By the way, I sold my 3.0 easily even without oilpan or sender as I used that on the 3.4.
Mileage isn't completely unimportant, but I for one felt that if I did swap in a 3.4 mileage wasn't my number one concern. I wanted the 3.4 to be functional and run well. I plan (when the time comes) to rebuild the 3.4 but I won't mind that as much as I feel the 3.4 motor is worth the time and effort to work on as it is a better motor overall. Plus, seeing I had 230,000 on my 3.0, a 3.4 with around 100,000 miles was a huge drop for me.
There might also be an argument that since the 3.4 is a better design than the 3.0 one might have less reliability concerns as the mileage gets higher.
So let me get this straight. When doing a swap i need
-cherry picker Yup, but you can borrow or rent.
-engine mount Engine stand... but same difference. Harbor Freight has them for around $40.
-good metric tools Yup... a standard set. there are a couple of SST's as well such as a belt tensioner and crankshaft pulley tool
-probably a couple extra people (more people is helpful, but I managed alone... so it can be done)
-new timing belt That would be best, plugs and wires also make sense.
-new water pump etc. Good idea also. Might consider rear main seal replacement as well.
-roof scoop because its gonna be a tight fit Hood Scoop... again same difference. A 1" body lift is the other option.
-cherry picker Yup, but you can borrow or rent.
-engine mount Engine stand... but same difference. Harbor Freight has them for around $40.
-good metric tools Yup... a standard set. there are a couple of SST's as well such as a belt tensioner and crankshaft pulley tool
-probably a couple extra people (more people is helpful, but I managed alone... so it can be done)
-new timing belt That would be best, plugs and wires also make sense.
-new water pump etc. Good idea also. Might consider rear main seal replacement as well.
-roof scoop because its gonna be a tight fit Hood Scoop... again same difference. A 1" body lift is the other option.
I'd suggest getting a local hydraulic shop to make a PS line for you.
The 3.0 fuel line from the vehicle will mate perfectly to the 3.4 fuels lines on the motor... no extensions or adapters needed.
ORS products will simplify the swap considerably, but add so much to the cost I just couldn't justify it. I would not have done the swap if I thought my total bill was gong to be $5000. I'd get a newer 4Runner with the 3.4 installed before I started to consider such an expense.
But... I of course have done some other heavy modifications to my 4Runner and the swap for well under $2000 made perfect sense.
#44
Contributing Member
My thoughts with Molly's rig exactly. When you have several thousand dollars in SAS, rear leaf conversion, armor, etc it makes more sense to keep what you got than to take a hit selling a non-running vehicle and starting over.
#45
Registered User
I, too, did most of the work myself. My brother gave me a hand when I needed it. My kids even pitched in. But most of it was done by me.
The wiring is a matter of cross referencing what the new harness does vs. the old harness. You've got to swap about 30 wires, give or take. The rest of it isn't that bad.
The wiring is a matter of cross referencing what the new harness does vs. the old harness. You've got to swap about 30 wires, give or take. The rest of it isn't that bad.
#46
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Talked to a local shop today about this. They are starting their first 3.0 -> 3.4 swap for a guy and quoted him $2000. They cut a deal since the customer was willing to have them do the work around the other urgent work that comes in day to day. That's with the customer bringing in all the parts, of course. I bet the bill runs over that. I will check back with them in a few weeks and try to see how it went. The only concerns he expressed to me were cali smog stuff and wiring.
Most encouraging was the younger guy working there. I bet he reads yotatech. Yeah, you! He looked excited to start the job, eyes lit up as bossman was talking about it. Good times, good times.
Most encouraging was the younger guy working there. I bet he reads yotatech. Yeah, you! He looked excited to start the job, eyes lit up as bossman was talking about it. Good times, good times.
#49
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got a 93 4runner with a 3.0 and im sick and tired of having to floor it up hills on the interstate to hold 70mph and all that good stuff
my 3.0 has about 300,000 miles on it but it still runs pretty strong
not blown, albeit with 300k on the clock, its almost done for...id say swap before it blows and sell the engine running for whatever you can, will help with the expense of the swap some.
my 3.0 has about 300,000 miles on it but it still runs pretty strong
not blown, albeit with 300k on the clock, its almost done for...id say swap before it blows and sell the engine running for whatever you can, will help with the expense of the swap some.
#50
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#51
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why would it cost $2000 to swap an engine if most of you guys say its pretty damn easy? sure i could understand it a slightly lengthy process, but i mean come on, why does it have to be so expensive? i think a "G" would be more in my book as far as cost of labor to do a swap.
but i am not sure about this, still on the see saw. im poor, but could definately save up in the summer to fund my 3.4. as far as working in a garage, i have no garage to work in. so that would be hard. i know my buddy has a garage, but i hate bringing my problems and work to his place. i need to find someone who could swap me for cheap, or even someone who wants to do it, and have me lend a hand. of coarse if i do get the 3.4 i have to want to replace all those goodies, and make it nice and clean. i would hate to see a dirty engine go into my nice 4runner. so pretty much that is where i stand.
ps. if you wanna make some money, and help me with my swap let me know and i will drive to YOU! help a poor college yotatecher out! any takers? lol.
but i am not sure about this, still on the see saw. im poor, but could definately save up in the summer to fund my 3.4. as far as working in a garage, i have no garage to work in. so that would be hard. i know my buddy has a garage, but i hate bringing my problems and work to his place. i need to find someone who could swap me for cheap, or even someone who wants to do it, and have me lend a hand. of coarse if i do get the 3.4 i have to want to replace all those goodies, and make it nice and clean. i would hate to see a dirty engine go into my nice 4runner. so pretty much that is where i stand.
ps. if you wanna make some money, and help me with my swap let me know and i will drive to YOU! help a poor college yotatecher out! any takers? lol.
#52
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Thread Starter
First, to the OP - what tire size and gears do you have. Regearing will be MUCH more cost effective than a motor swap.
CoedNaked - I hear what you're saying, but you're comparing a truck to a 4Runner. The extra several hundred pounds makes a HUGE difference. I wouldn't say it's apples to oranges, but certainly not a true comparison.
CoedNaked - I hear what you're saying, but you're comparing a truck to a 4Runner. The extra several hundred pounds makes a HUGE difference. I wouldn't say it's apples to oranges, but certainly not a true comparison.
#54
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If you have 4.10's, I would put 4.88 in - great compromise if you're undecided on tire size.
#55
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but i am not sure about this, still on the see saw. im poor, but could definately save up in the summer to fund my 3.4. as far as working in a garage, i have no garage to work in. so that would be hard.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...warning-93642/
Truth be told, though - I'd just about give up my left *** to have one!!
#56
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Thread Starter
You might have 4.56, which is OK up to 33's. For 35's, I would go 5.29, and it won't be too bad with 33's. Will be a little tachy with 31's, but better to rev these motors than lug them.
If you have 4.10's, I would put 4.88 in - great compromise if you're undecided on tire size.
If you have 4.10's, I would put 4.88 in - great compromise if you're undecided on tire size.
#57
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Should be something like this: G254/R150F
First part is your axle code, second is the tranny.
Axle code goes like this...
First position: Diameter of ring gear.
It's probably a F or a G.
F= 7.5"
G= 8"
Second and third position are your ratio. Most likely one of the following:
07= 3.9
29= 4.10
28= 4.30
25= 4.56
14= 4.875
Final position is the number of pinions in the carrier.
2= 2 pinions
4= 4 pinions
So, my 4Runner came with a 8" ring gear, 4.56 ratio and 4 pinion. My 4Runner also came equipped with a R150 transmission.
#58
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I 2nd or 3rd the idea that the 3.4 swap is most cost effective done yourself.
If you go with the ORS wiring harness the swap literally is plug and play. Motor mounts and bell housing is the same as the 3.0.
A rough guess would be $4000 to $5000 depending on how much you find a 3.4 for and assuming you will go with the ORS harness.
I was able to sell my 3.0 and some related parts, did my own wiring and came in well under $2000 out of pocket. That was with headers and new timing belt, plugs and wires.
If you love your vehicle, but just hate the lack of HP, the 3.4 is the way to go. It's like getting a new truck that comparatively just flies down the road.
If you go with the ORS wiring harness the swap literally is plug and play. Motor mounts and bell housing is the same as the 3.0.
A rough guess would be $4000 to $5000 depending on how much you find a 3.4 for and assuming you will go with the ORS harness.
I was able to sell my 3.0 and some related parts, did my own wiring and came in well under $2000 out of pocket. That was with headers and new timing belt, plugs and wires.
If you love your vehicle, but just hate the lack of HP, the 3.4 is the way to go. It's like getting a new truck that comparatively just flies down the road.
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