Devst8r

thankx, solved my problem

abecedarian

I worry that adjusting things not related to the issue but when adjusted can compensate for the issue will only cause more headache later.

thook

Yeah, I know what you mean. I had this conversation with a poster.......hadn't been signed up long.......about adjusting the IAV on a 3vze to skirt around the real problem. He seemed pretty convinced it'd be a good idea and that there was actually some kind of adjustment while I continued to assert there wasn't. In another thread, one totally unrelated to the IAV, he was convinced it'd be a good idea to measure valve clearance without shims in the followers. Even if there was actually a tool in existence to do that accurately, I tried to explain it'd still be easier with the shims. I don't know......I think the guy was smokin' crack or something. I haven't seen him posting much lately. Hmmm........

Possomhead Geezer

My first and maybe last contribution to this thread and site, is to express my appreciation to members esp. “WRENCHTECH” for sorting out and so succinctly sharing the solution to the……..idle surge issue with the 22re. I had been on a wild goose hunt chasing this problem with my ’91 stock as a stone 2wd pickup (290,000), for some while now. The process has been good for the truck, in that system by system have been freshened, but only to be disappointed that the surge didn’t stop. I combed the web, quizzing “experts”, only to be directed on more goose chases. …until I stumbled across this thread…and the light finally dawned!! I reversed flushed the air valve under the throttlebody….without removing either, and cleaned/tightened ground connections to the engine,…….and VOOOOO……LLAAAAA!!! Idle became sweet and smooth as the day it were born. From reading this tread and others, It seems this idle issue on old 22re’s isn’t so uncommon, but try as I might, I never found such a clear and concise cure as I found here,….so I just wanted to take this opportunity to express my sincere gratitude for so generously sharing the insight that get rid of a very frustrating problem………. To say it has been a good little truck is the essence of understatement, and I hated to see it’s proformance deteriate. Happy adventures to all………

mpwarfy

can someone explain this to me?

mpwarfy

are the auxiliary air valves the same/interchangeable on all 4runners up to 1995?

Kstoy

Great info, I have been all over the net and forums trying figure this out. My 22RE dose not have a high idle on a cold start up but after about 7mins its at high idle. I also have the hit the brakes and the idle surges problem but it only does this once its warmed up. Well I've checked for vaccum leaks & I can't find none, cleaned the IAC, flushed the radiator, new Thermostat, and changed out the air box. And still have the problem.....but upon all this I came across a more worse problem, my timing chain and or guides are about to go! I kept hearing this wire in a can noise if you will, and after reading and talking to a guy that his life is yotas realized I need to quit driveing it and get a timing chain kit on the way. So once I get that done I will continue with my idle problem. But was wondering if my timing could be off due to the guides/chain wearing and be causeing any of my idle issue? Also if it makes any difference on opinion my pickup dosent have AC or power steering. I'm glad I found this forum its already shed a lot of light thanks to all who share their experince and when I get mine figured out I'll post up how I fixed to maybe help someone else down the road. ; )

navalspecforces

mine was idling high then i replaced the MAF meter.

navalspecforces

now i do have a question after replacing the MAF, TPS, plugs, wires, rotor and cap, valcuum lines and the cold start sensor my 90 4runner sr5 2.4l idles great but when i drive it, the engine sound like it wants to go but it has no pick up....

Possomhead Geezer

The air valve has a lot to do with controling engine idle speed on fuel injected engines. To do this, it needs to know engine temp. To accomplish this, engine coolant is circulated thru it by means of two hoses, about 3/8" i.d., one carries coolant into the valve, the other carries back to the main engine coolant system. (earlier photos in this thread give great details of this system ). Since coolant flows thru the valve in one direction, any crap in the coolant system can collect in the air valve body over time and block the flow of coolant, thus robbing the airvalve the coolant temp. info it needs to make idle speed adjustments. The result is engine overspeed which the engine ecu senses and cuts out spark as the engine overspeeds........engine rpm drops back into idle range, and spark gets turned on again.......until engine idle overspeeds....and sparks drops out again.....and so goes the cycle, or SURGE in idle speed. I just pulled the two hose ends away from the air valve, and used them to run water and/or compressed air in the reverse direction of normal circulation, to flush accumulated "crap" out of the air valve body that was blocking flow THRU the valve. In my case, a smooth steady idle returned when I reconnected the hoses and refilled coolant. Two afterthoughts that may help. Don't forget to burp the trapped air out of the valve when refilling coolant. Also, coolant flow direction can be determined by noting which hose is connected to or near the engine coolant pump. Coolant flows away FROM the pump.
Good Luck !

Possomhead Geezer

Sorry Gents, my last post is a little out of syc with current conversation, but was meant as a reply to "mpwarfy" RE: "would someone explain......" ~later

mpwarfy

Thanks for the explanation I'm going to try cleaning that thing tomorrow

Possomhead Geezer

Another happenstance I had with 22RE timing chain issues may shed some light. It sure had me baffled for a while. First off, I bought my '91 2wd pu with 190,000mi. and a hole burned in #1 piston. The holy piston turned out to be the result of previous owner driving for some time with a bad timing chain which had skipped a tooth. I changed the piston and chain, and drove for about another 70,000mi. before strange noises, lack of power, and a definate "PING" of detonation under load comensed......but still the truck drove better than I could imagine it could with a skipped timing change. After babying it to work and back for the rest of the week, I did a valve timing check and found that.....sure enough.......valve timing was a tooth off. This time I did chain, guides, plunger,......AND....a new oil pump. The oil pump because the plunger the maintains chain tension operates off oil pressure!! For that reason, and the fact that high mileage engines (with wide parts clearances) benifit a lot from a fresh oil pump. Bottom line....the oil pump is not hard to change (just behind front crankshaft pulley). and really help extend engine life and performance....and YES, the ecu will do an amazing job to accomidate an engine with a skipped timing chain tooth, but the result will be bad performance,detonation, and likely a hole in a piston, at the least.

Dirt Driver

Small detail, but it's actually fuel that gets pulled instead of spark. Throwing unburned fuel and air into the exhaust will roast a cat converter in short order, which is at least partly why OEMs don't do it.

Possomhead Geezer

OK! got it. that makes more sense now that you mention it. So,....the ecu cuts signal to the the injectors ?? Another thing I never figured out is,.....what is the connection/influence of the brake lite circuit. When I was having my surge issue, it seemed to stop, or at least change when I touched the brakes, and I saw a similar mention elsewhere in the thread related to idle surge ??? Thanks for the correction ~later

Dirt Driver

The brake circuit feedback is involved with overrun fuel cut. That's when the injectors shut off during engine braking to save fuel and increase engine braking. If you're on the brake and the throttle is shut, there's no need for fuel, right? The overrun fuel cut RPM window comes into play when the idle is too high with the TPS reporting closed throttle. The service manual says fuel is cut above 1900 and comes back online at 1300rpm with brake applied for trucks other than 2wd automatics.

Kstoy

Still waiting on my timing chain parts, before I can move on to my idle issue.........some good info being shared here!

mpwarfy

weird mine is the opposite the problem is more noticeable when I am on the brake. as soon as I give it gas its like my hood gets sucked down (stops shaking)

but I'm like you op.. looking for and waiting on parts. Its possible I am a little paranoid when it comes to my truck. I'm constantly shushing my daughter when driving to listen for noises...

Possomhead Geezer

Much thanks to Dirt Driver for sheding light on my surge/idle/brake issue. Dude has done some serious homework at some point. I'm starting to have a lot of respect and appreciotion for all that little ecu box is busy doin while I'm pushin the pedals. After about 15 yrs of unparalled service I feel a little sad that I have to sell this truck......a bit like betraying a very faithful old friend.....just when I'm getting it to somewhat get a handle on what makes it tick. I'm retired now, but work a backhoe to suppliment social security, so I need 4wd. and this truck ('91) is only 2wd. I have a rough '89 Masda B2600 4x4, but is don't run anywhere near as sweet as the 22RE........And the 22RE has twice the mileage (300,000), and is easily the best ride, all considered, I have owned. Thanks All, ~Later

mpwarfy

Small world I'm in the operators union