buckz6319

After more request for the missing pics in this thread. I have taken most of my day, to try and reconstruct this 3VZE timing belt thread, so others can benefit from it, and same some cash while doing it

"DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK" I am no professional, and don't claim to be one, just a dyi kinda guy. I maybe missing a few steps, with pics ( hope not) if so let me know, and I will go back and re- edit this thread again

removing the radiator fluid

looking at the water outlet of the #2 idler pulley

removing the water outlet and upper rad hose

removing bolts from fan shrouds

it helps to have a bright flash lite to see some of the bolts that are hard to see in dark places

fan shrouds removed it has 2 pieces so you can remove it without removing the radiator at this point
Top and Bottom pieces
fan shrouds removed

looking under the radiator at the automatic transmission lines they have to be removed from the radiator
catch the transmission fluid in something and you need to plug the end of the detached lines or the fluid will just keep flowing

bolts that hold the radiator to the frame, just in case you need to remove the radiator in the future

two hoses that need to be moved out of the way for now

hoses removed

loosening the adjusting bolt on the back of the ps bracket and it is a pain to get to!

the front adjusting bolt loosen it so the ps belt can be removed when you need to

loosening the bottom alt adjusting bolt

loosening the top alt adjusting bolt so you can remove the belt when you need to

loosening the ac pulley bolt so you can remove the ac belt when you need to

all accessory belts are removed from all pulleys
removing the ps pump adjusting bracket bolts

ps bracket removed

ps bracket removed now you can see the fake fan idler bracket

last bolt removed from the fan idler bracket I'm removing the whole assembly which includes the fan,pulleys,fan bracket and hydraulic tensioner all at the same time..

this is what the front of the engine looks like, with the fake fan bracket with hydraulic tensioner removed as one whole unit

Removed the timing belt cover
looking at the old timing belt and related pulleys,notice that the timing marks on the cam sprockets are a tooth off compared to the factory timing marks on the rear cover

removing the hex bolt from the idler pulley#1

#1 idler pulley removed, note the washer on the threads save that, you will need it for the new hydraulic tensioner

timing belt removed from cam sprockets

removing the ps pulley from the harmonic balancer with a $16.00 puller, it came with a assortment of bolts
http://images2.snapfish.com/23232323...3A565257ot1lsi
ps crank pulley removed

now loosen the large bolt that holds the crank pulley(harmonic balancer) to the crank using what method will work for you.I used a 2foot 1/2" drive extension.I layed the extension on the frame and cranked over the engine to loosed it...DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!!
this is what the crank pulley looks like when removed

now looking at the #1 timing belt cover that has to be removed,top side

Bottom side view

#1 timing belt cover removed notice the silver timing belt guide it has holes around the edge and the cup side faces out wards

timing belt removed and I have all timing marks are lined up, on the camshaft pulleys, and crankshaft pulley, and the timing mark on the oil pump body

Groove in the crankshaft pulley lined up with the raised timing line mark on the oil pump body

removing the 4 bolts that hold the #2 idler pulley backing plate so you can have access to the 4 hold down bolts that hold the #2 idler pulley to the intake it's tricky trying to get to the bolts so use a wobbly 1/4" extension for easy access(thanks for the advice guys on the wobbly extensions better than taking the intake off to get to the bolts

backing plate removed

1/4" wobbly extension i purchased it and a 3/8" from Lowe's

#2 idler pulley bolts removed( bolts are on top of the pulley, you can see 2 of them in the pic above) and pulley with huge bearing removed as a whole unit

Old #2 idler pulley with bad bearings(my hand is around the bearing) it has rough bearings, and is squeaking when I rotate it

new idler pulley #2

underside of the pulley, notice the black seal

removing the thermostat housing and my studs came out with the nuts so be careful I had to re-install the studs back in the block for proper installation of the housing later
The thermostat housing removed. I would install a new stat and washer on re-assembly

the old water pump removed

The new water pump installed after cleaning the mating surfaces and remember to torque per the FSM

new t-stat and rubber washer and housing installed be careful not to over torque the nuts or the plastic housing will crack and you will have to buy another because it will leak once you put water in the system

marked the path of the crankshaft key(red line,use what ever color you like) so when I reinstall the harmonic balancer I can line the 2 up and not worry about messing up the key.also put a mark on the harmonic balancer the same thickness as the key way so things will line up because when you put the two back together at some point you cant see the key way on the balancer this helps to ensure that you stay on the right path toward the key on the shaft

New #1 idler pulley installed, with washer over the hex bolt on the back side don't forget to do that

The dot on the crank shaft pulley is lined up with the CR>>>> on the new timing belt, in this pic you can't see the dot, but it's there

pull new timing belt up snug and over the water pump pulley so you can put the crankshaft guide back on and the #1 timing belt cover back on that will hold the belt in place so you can start to route the belt around the pulleys

installed the #1 timing belt cover and the harmonic balancer double check and make sure, you have the dot lined up with the CR>>> on the new belt & the notch on the crank shaft pulley lined up with the timing mark on the oil pump body then when you install the cover and the harmonic balancer then the notch in the balancer pulley will line up with the "0" on the #1 timing belt cover
I will have to look for that pic
Camshaft timing marks are lined with the marks on the rear camshaft cover

New timing belt installed and all timing marks line up on my first try without the tensioner installed yet

Installed the new hydraulic tensioner but don't pull that pin out until you install the assembly back on the motor and torque all fan idler bolts then release the pin and PRAY that nothing moves

fan assemble back on and torqued I pulled the tensioner locking pin out and all timing marks stayed on mark so no problem with belt skipping a tooth

All finished and ready to start up for a test...I got it done right the first time, timing is correct no water leaks and the engine runs smooth and has more pep I think? at least it feel that way.

I do have a bad bearing on my ac compressor so that will have to be replace at a later date
Thanks to All who help me with this project I couldn't have done it without your help and this site "ROCKS!!!!!").... thanks yotatech!!!

Squiddy

Dude, this is the best write up on anything in quite a while. Nice job!

buckz6319

Squiddy ....thanks it took a lot of extra time to take the pics and write stuff down but I felt like it would clarify some steps for others as it did for me.
The last pic is of the engine running so everything is still in good working order.
Some pics are not as clear because of my movement of the camera, and i'm going to get a digital camera with the anti shake feature before the next time I do a major job like this

KentuckyMudder

Great write up! Members like you make a great site like this even better. The extra time is much appreciated. I've been GLUED to yotatech every night since my hg blew last month. Thanks again!

buckz6319

KentuckyMudder
Thanks for the comment...and your welcome

toylocost

Wow good job. That takes alot of extra time to make a write up like this.

Lumpy

That's an assume writeup!!!! My hat is off to you. I'm hanging on to this for when I gotta do mine.

TNRabbit

Blurr

good work dude! might i add one more thing? right after installing the timing belt with everything lined up properly, pull the tensioner pin then rotate the crankshaft by hand (breaker bar on crankshaft pulley bolt) at least 4 full rotations. this will tell you if your timing belt installation is 100% good to go. If the marks on the belt don't stay lined up with the marks on the cam gears after 4 full rotations then you know it has skipped a tooth...back to the drawing board. this is a good double-check procedure to perform while everything is still torn apart.

kudos!

rdougcrowe

HELP!!!! This was a great find, even better than the manual.. But two questions from the not so car educated.. One, how the hell did you get the crankshaft pulley 'bolt/nut' to move? Second, there appears to be no tensioner on the timing belt, is that right? The 1993 and older have the tension spring, but this one does not appear to have one.. The MANUAL talks about the tension device and has a nice drawing of one, but I cannot find it anywhere... Maybe it's me.. maybe not... either way, thanks for the pictures!!

Doug

1995 4runner..

buckz6319

Thanks for the comment....to answer your questions

Crank shaft bolt removal...I used the starter trick worked like a charm"), to reinstall the bolt I used a 850lbs pull chain with small link openings just the perfect size to be able to get the 4 ps crank pulley bolts through and long enough to wrap around the frame on both sides to in order to hold on all 4 bolts.I didn't want to chance all that 181lbs of torque on just one or two bolts

Old hydraulic tensioner (RED) with pin pushing on the idler pulley (green arrow)

New hydraulic tensioner installed on the fan bracket

I hope this help you
Dwayne

buckz6319

Good catch...you added it for me thanks
Dwayne

buckz6319

TNRabbit...thanks for the compliment...I do appreciate it
Dwayne

BoostinChick

Awesome write up! I have book marked this in case I ever want to dive into it.

Approximately how long did this take you?

buckz6319

Total time about 12 hours with taking the pics and doing the write up.I was going slow as not to over look something that would cause me to have to do it all over again...

but I Did have to do it again because after a week of driving ,the new water pump started to leak so I had to replace it with another and so far not a problem with the new pump
Dwayne

thook

Thorough write up, Dwayne. That takes about as much effort and time as actually doing the job.....lol.

I wondered when you were going to be able to get around to doing this. It's such a simple job, isn't it? I mean, a lot of wrenching, but still........pretty simple.

runethechamp

I am pretty sure that once you start turning the crank by hand, the marks on the belt will not line up with the marks on the pulleys when they all come around again. Really, if you align the marks on the belt with the pulleys, you can't go wrong. The turn and check procedure is however useful if you put on a belt with no marks and you use the marks on the pulleys with the marks on the plate behind them to align everything.

Excellent write-up btw.

Blurr

Rune, you are correct. I'm pretty sure my timing belt marks stayed lined up but this is relatively meaningless. If the pulley notches line up with the backing plate notch after 4 rotations then you know that the belt is properly installed. Thanks for the clarification!

buckz6319

Matthew....thanks for the compliment...and I agree with you, that the job was much simpler that I originally thought.I really think I could have done the job in 6 hrs just wrenching.
It took me a long time to take pics, upload to a hosting service and do the write up and start a thread on the topic

I did finally get around to doing the job once the weather was cooperating and the timing was right and I had all my parts that I needed and all the member tech help to do the job
Thanks again members

buckz6319

runethechamp..thanks for the input...and i agree with you on the marks on the belt will not line up through x amount or turns of the crank...but it you turn the crank enough revolutions the marks will eventually line back up.

What is really important and I found this out on my second time,because the new water pump was leaking and I had to remove it & replace with another within the 1st week.

.It is vary vary vary important!! to mark the timing belt in relation to ALL timing line up marks before the belt gets removed if you have to reuse the belt like I had to do.I almost screwed that one up