malcolmr

Hi Everybody!

I am working on redoing the two hardlines that run on the passengers side of my 1991 pickup ex. cab, 4x4, from the front wheel area to the rear, running most of that length parallel to the fuel line.

I am wondering if I get a used one from a 94 ex. cab if it will fit properly in my rig. The rust on the lines was unreal after 20 winters in Michigan.

Thanks so much for the input!

oldblue

i would buy your own fittings and new lines and re-do it yourself versus buying used brake lines, which in my opinion isn't the wisest choice, but thats just me. bending lines and making flares and all that is actually quite simple once you get the hang of it. if the truck has spent 20 years in yankee-land, you'll probobly find out half way through this project that all of your steel lines and fittings will need to be replaced anyways, and i'm sure some will break and round off as you try to disassemble. i don't see it costing more than $50 including the flaring tool (which you could just rent for free from autozone) and extra brake line you will screw up in the learning process.

justin_4runner

yeah dont get that one, buy new stuff and redo it all, u dont know the condition on the lines u are pulling off and they could be just as bad as yours, and redoing them are really easy, i ended up doing some when i was 16 and was surprised at how easy it was,

HawkStrong16

Hey guys, been awhile since I posted.

I just had to replace the rear lines on my truck. I pulled to bed for some paint/rust repair so it was a good time to blow a line. haha. Anyway be careful when you work around the fuel lines. As when I did mine I bumped the line and it started to leak fuel everywhere!
I also found it easier to loosen the cab mounts and jack up the cab for some easy access.

Also might be a good time to look in to eliminating the LSPV(I'm not sure on the effects of this) as then you only have to replace one line not 2. I'm going to have to do it to mine as after I replaced the lines the LSPV itself started to leak

Good luck bud! Its not too bad

malcolmr

Thanks so much for the advice!

Ok, so I ditched the idea of salvaging the lines, and got 25' of line and the tools today at autozone. 20 bucks! Cool!

Problem now is that both of these lines were so rusted out near the gas tank that they both broke when I was removing them. Totally severed. Now I am not completely certain which end goes where, and am hoping that you guys can help me figure out the proper pairing/connections of these routes.

Does the uppermost one in back connect to the forward most one in front?

I tried uploading some images, but am having a bit of difficulty doing so.

Thanks again, all of you!

malcolmr

Also, does anybody know what size attachment I should use for the flaring tool? i am guessing 4.7 or 5 mm.

Thank you!

rubronthroad

akwheeler

I have seen people re-route the lines along side the tank, there isn't much of a problem with that as long as you secure them well so that they will not rub on anything (or vibrate against anything) and keep them away from heat and moving parts.

rubronthroad

akwheeler

What I mentioned about re-routing is to avoid dropping the tank, just cut the lines in front and behind, flare them and add in a new line around the tank. just don't mix them up. Yes, it's hillbilly, but if you do good work it won't leak and will last.
An even better fix would be all new lines from front to back with double flares. If you are looking to restore it to like new, then you will have to drop the tank. but remember, the fuel lines have been there as long as the brake lines (most likely) and may be ready to leak at the slightest movement. If you drop the tank inspect them well and you should pressure them up (run the fuel pump) to look for leaks before you fully bolt the tank back in.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

You must have much better Luck then me I find it impossible to double flare old weather exposed brake lines

Every one has cracked .

I must say the New Copper /Nickle line is nice to work with.

akwheeler

You are not alone, I generally replace with pre-made lines that already have double flares, I think they come in 3 foot lengths so a few double ended connectors are needed as well, and I only flare lines if I absolutely have to.

rubronthroad

rubronthroad

rubronthroad

akwheeler

I am not familiar with the poly-armor and I wouldn't use hose, I was talking about hard lines I get from the parts store, just get some with the correct fittings to screw into the master cylinder and the LSPV and double ended connectors to attach one to another. I think the longest ones are 3 foot unless you get unmade tubing (I think it comes in a roll of 20 feet) and flare your own. But the recommended practice is a double flare and... well... good luck with that I gave up trying about 30 years ago!

rubronthroad

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Never heard of the Poly Armour then being happy with the Copper Nickle line I have not really looked .

When I do brake lines I make all my own .

rubronthroad

Area of leak
Passinger side

jakey poo

Replace everything. Those looks like they're in terrible shape. You can trim your dust shield a 1/4" and put in the next generation calipers that have both pots the same size. Its a nice inexpensive brake upgrade. Sorry just realized you have the next gen. Either way, if it were mine I would replace all of it. Brakes aren't something you want to have not work.