NO power and overheating
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NO power and overheating
I recently put a new timing chain on my 85 4runner which is efi. I recently cleaned all the carbon build up out of the throttle body. Now it runs worse, i know i need to re time it since it is running rich but when it was timed before it still had some power. You would step on the gas and there would be little power and when you put your foot 3/4 of the way in the engine would rev up and it would basically floor itself.
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yea i am positive, when i took the timing chain off i dropped the oil pan instead of taking the head off just because i was on a time schedule but when i put it back on i put gasket sealer on there which did the job and i also replaced the thermostat
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i had a few people look at the marks and stuff before i put it on and neither of the shafts moved, its pretty self explainitory. How can you put your distributor back on the right way?i think you may be right about the 180 degree thing
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I just finished an 86 22re rebuild and had some trouble with the timing. All that matters is:
1. Take the valve cover off so you can see the cam gear.
2. Pull the number one spark plug so you can feel compression as you rotate the crankshaft by hand to 0 degree TDC. Both rockers on #1 will be loose.
3. The dowel pin on the camgear will be at 12 0'clock.
4. Pull the distributor and align the rotor to 12 0'clock. Than push it back in and the rotor will point right at the number one spark plug wire.
The bright links don't matter a bit if you follow this procedure. I was one cog off on my distributor on my rebuild. On my 22RE I jumbered the timing test connector and set the timing to 5 degree BTDC. Perfect.
1. Take the valve cover off so you can see the cam gear.
2. Pull the number one spark plug so you can feel compression as you rotate the crankshaft by hand to 0 degree TDC. Both rockers on #1 will be loose.
3. The dowel pin on the camgear will be at 12 0'clock.
4. Pull the distributor and align the rotor to 12 0'clock. Than push it back in and the rotor will point right at the number one spark plug wire.
The bright links don't matter a bit if you follow this procedure. I was one cog off on my distributor on my rebuild. On my 22RE I jumbered the timing test connector and set the timing to 5 degree BTDC. Perfect.
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#8
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@yodercrawler55-
if the distributor were out 180, the spark plugs would be firing when the piston is near TDC of the exhaust stroke and both intake and exhaust valves would be open and the engine wouldn't run. blaiwayw has a good suggestion for dialing in the distributor.
and don't forget to jumper the test connector before trying to adjust the timing, otherwise you'll be fighting the ECU's settings and that can cause problems such as overheating and/or detonation/pinging.
also, don't forget to double check all your vacuum lines and intake tubing for leaks.
one last thing- depending on how you 'decarbonized' things, i'd be willing to bet a lot of that debris went down the exhaust and could be plugging up your converter (if you have one) and the backpressure could cause a lack of power and overheating as well.
if the distributor were out 180, the spark plugs would be firing when the piston is near TDC of the exhaust stroke and both intake and exhaust valves would be open and the engine wouldn't run. blaiwayw has a good suggestion for dialing in the distributor.
and don't forget to jumper the test connector before trying to adjust the timing, otherwise you'll be fighting the ECU's settings and that can cause problems such as overheating and/or detonation/pinging.
also, don't forget to double check all your vacuum lines and intake tubing for leaks.
one last thing- depending on how you 'decarbonized' things, i'd be willing to bet a lot of that debris went down the exhaust and could be plugging up your converter (if you have one) and the backpressure could cause a lack of power and overheating as well.
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