desertcamper67

Here is a picture of something that runs across the valve cover and has what seems to have an adjustable knob on it . Truck runs good and has been like this since I got it out of storage.

I don't think it is working without a wire connected but what does it do?
The vaccuum lines are still okay.

myyota

Thats an electronicaly controled vacuum valve, and its either for the idle up on the a/c or its the one that goes fuel presure regulator, i can`t tell by your pictures wich one it is.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Looks like the A/C idle up valve, judging by the connector:



http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ne_Pix/13.html

desertcamper67

I just cut off my A/C belt wednesday before I tried to smog it. It was cracking and I seem to have lost my freon when I rolled it a few years back so I didn't need it anyway.
This switch means nothing to me then until I get the A/C going again. Is that right?

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

All it does is bump up the idle speed when the A/C is on. I deleted the A/C in my truck and I retained that VSV and use it for a push button fast idle mode.

desertcamper67

What do you use it for? Welding? Crawling?

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Various things, mainly when running my air compressor to fill up the tires. Keeps the alternator running a little faster and that keeps the system voltage up, the compressor pulls about 26 amps. Also use it when wheeling up at higher elevations, like on the Dusy Ershim trail. Near 10,000', I find the idle speed really drops off, so instead of readjusting that, just hit the A/C button and then I can tweak the idle speed with the fast idle knob instead of messing with the throttle body setting. Then when I get back lower, turn off the fast idle and all is normal again.

I do have a hand throttle for the welder:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...leInstallation

desertcamper67

Yeah thats it. Is there any way that with one of these wires chewed apart it could give me a code 11?

myyota

Yes, its possible, for the vacuum valve and throttle position sensor to cause a code 11, try and fix the vacuum valve or replace it and see if that solves the problem.

desertcamper67

Its just a chewed wire. I can splice in another one tomorrow and see if that does anything. Is there a way to reset everything? Pull negative battery cable? Tried it before but that was only after cleaning the throttle body and adjusting the TPS. Code 11 before and after puling batt cable.

myyota

Yea, just fix the wire if possible, if that doesn`t make the code go away then your TPS might be bad. If its the original TPS it might be a good idea to replace it anyways because of its age. I just replaced the TPS on my 86 4Runner because it was the original one and it was 23 yrs old, just cheap insurance in my opinion.

desertcamper67

I will probably replace it since I have a brand new one. I just kind of wanted to keep it until me or somebody else really had to have it. It seems funny that such an expensive part can be bad while the engine runs really good. Even before I adjusted it I thought my Runner was zippy.
First I am going to repair that wire and then I guess pull the neg battery cable of for a few minutes. I don't even know if this does anything.

desertcamper67

The wire is fixed now and I got a code 11 and code 7 I started it up with jumper jumped and unplugged that plug. Plugged it backin and now have a code 7 only. No more code 11 means I did something but I'll have to check into this new code now.

desertcamper67

TPSis in CODE 1

CODE 1= normal operation. Yes! problem solved. Now on to the harmonic balancer. Haven't looked at that yet.

desertcamper67

I bought a new timing light with built in tachometer. Timing is about 4`btc and I set the idle at 750. I don't need a harmonic balancer. This is just getting better and better. Tomorrow its back to the smog shop.
Other than the timing light and the first failed smog test I'm in to this for only about $20 since I already had a brand new TPS.