live4soccer7

Here is what the manual says:

I'm guessing the 12* is w/the vacuum advance lines connected and the 0* is when they are disconnected and plugged. Is this correct?

Also my second question is: Which mark is 12* (degrees)? I see a 0 and a 5 then a smaller mark (same size as 0 and 5 marks) to the left of the 5*. There are also two larger marks to the left of the small one to the left of the 5. here is a picture because that must be hard to understand what in the hell i'm talking about.

XtraSlow_XtraCab

What year truck? I'm sorry but 0deg for a 22R seems totally incorrect. What book are you reading from?

The 12 degree mark is that last little notch all the way to the left... assuming that this illustration is drawn to scale.

algranger

factory spec for a 22r is 5 degrees

83

Yeah the setting to zero is mentioned in the FSM, but if you look under the hood on the sticker it should say 5. Mine's actually set to around 8, but I'm up at a higher elevation.

live4soccer7

does this mean I set it to 5 when the vacuum advance lines are pulled and plugged?

83

I believe you want 5 with the hoses plugged, 12 unplugged. Something like that.

live4soccer7

and which mark is the 12? is it the third mark from the far right (the arrow in the picture that isn't marked)

edit: I looked at the diagram incorrectly. It is the very last mark on the left as xtracab said. Thanks for the help

live4soccer7

I looked under the hood and it said 0* for when the hoses are removed and plugged. This is for the 22r. The manual says differently though. I figured I would go w/what the stick on the hood said.

TrikeKid

My sticker under hood is too faded to read, but my book says zero. I'm running mine at 5 because I'm much too lazy to pull the distributor out and move it up a tooth so I could actually adjust it to 0. It runs fine this way and gets proper mileage so I'm leaving it the hell alone.

live4soccer7

sounds pretty good to me. I'm just over zero. It sounded better that way and I'm not at sea level so I figured a degree more would be better. Runs pretty good. i have to take it for a road test tomorrow. After the top end rebuild I have to check to make sure everything is up to par so it doesn't burn up or do something crazy/unexpected.

XtraSlow_XtraCab

Wait wait wait! Have we accounted for whether or not these trucks are "FEDERAL" emissions rated or "CALIFORNIA" emissions rated? This changes everything... and after 20-25 years what makes you think that you have the original hood?

Make sure you find out which emissions setup you have... most likely California would have retarded the timing further than federal trucks.

drew303

WTF?

5 deg?, 12 Deg, what the hell drug are you all on?

you EFI owners should just scatter now before the I let loose the K9's

just joking

but really, wth? 22R's are set to 0 deg at around 2k rpm. it's under your hood (if its still readable) and it's in the fsm.

I can't believe the replies on this thread, so far for 2009, this thread takes the cake for most 'first replies full of bs info'

drew303

No no no! .... in mocking of you. Federal or not, the timing is the same.

pull the advance, adjust to zero. period.

ofcourse i dont know wtf im talking about, i have both cali and federal versions of the 22r, 1987 years in my driveway.

83

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...stions-162768/

Plus, under my hood it says 5* at somewhere like 700rpms. It drove ok like that, but it's much better at closer to 8*. Of course I'm at around 5,000ft. You're right, the FSM says 0* plugged. Mine runs like crap at zero.

The good drugs, to answer your question.

live4soccer7

I'm stumped on mine. I have it set to zero and it's running the best, but that doesn't mean it's running well. It drives fine if going slow in first gear on the flat. Otherwise it wants to bog down. The truck ran well as far as this stuff goes before I took it apart.

I tried to set it to 5 and it bogged worse or hesitates (chugs and lugs to where if it really wants to die) when trying to take put it into anything other than 1st gear unless I have it at pretty high rpms (just by sound b/c I don't have a tach).

I looked to make sure all of the hoses and what not were connected and it seems they are. I can't see anything. If i can't narrow it down to just the timing i'm going to take the air intake and filter unit off and double check all of the hoses around the carb/intake area.

Any ideas on why it may be doing this. I've never timed a car/truck before so I don't know the feeling of what the symptoms should be.

83

You could have the distributer off a tooth or two. Or...timing chain off a tooth?

live4soccer7

if that was the case though, wouldn't it idle really rough? I know the chain is right on. I double and triple checked that before I put it together.

regardless though, w/a timing light it shows it's at 0* with vacuum pulled. That should tell me it's on the right track. I'm going to try and make a couple adjustments and i'll post if I have any findings.

83

My distributer was off a bit, so it ran, and ran ok, all turned all the way to one side, but if I moved it at all the other way it would start to stall. I had to pull it out and shift it just a bit, then I could time it. I agree though, if you can get it 0 and higher, the disty is probably not off. With all the things you need to take off to do a head gasket, it really could be a lot of stuff, but I don't know enough to really help you trouble shoot. Do you have an FSM?

I agree it should run rough if something bigger was messed up.

I would check for vacuum leaks, exhaust leak, carb functioning properly, air filter clean...

But as Drew pointed out, I'm not exactly an expert and have been known to do drugs.

live4soccer7

yeah I have the fsm... It seems like everything is connected. I took a thorough look. Where would the exhaust leak? It's like the symptoms are of the timing being off because as soon as I mess w/the timing one way or another it does the same type of thing, but worse.

live4soccer7

I think it could be something w/the carb. I'm not completely sure though. I hardly know anything on how they work, but the flanges/wings in the carb are not moving. I took off the lid to the air filter and manually pulled the throttle and only the on of the left (if facing the windshield from the front of the vehicle) would move a little if a LOT of throttle was given. Although they don't really move and the one one the right side feels really stiff.