Pre 84 Trucks 1st gen pickups

help me identify this screw on the weber 32/36

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Old 03-23-2013, 05:42 PM
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help me identify this screw on the weber 32/36

Ok I have a 82 first gen with the weber 32/36 well here of late it has been doing funny things like not idling the same everytime I start it and sometimes it hesitates while idling, well today I went through and tried to tune it in according to the instructions and could not get it right tosave my life. Well I was playing with it and decided to turn this screw and it magical started running like a champ. I have no idea what this screw is for but it doesn't have a spring on it and it is almost the size of a dime, the screw was tight and I backed it out like an 1/8 of an inch and she idled up a tad and started purring like a cat. If your standing on the passenger side fender looking at the auto choke the screw is right to the right and up just a tad, I don't know how to post pics on here or I would but if anyone has any clue what that screw is for or any info at all why it is running better please help. And when I turned this screw it reacts with just the very slightest of movements if I turned it back a quarter inch it would die but when I had it tight it didn't run that good, I'm clueless as I think this screw should be tight but Idk. And my idle screw and mixture screw is right in spec now
Old 03-25-2013, 07:00 AM
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That sure sounds like one of your idle jet holders. I don't know if backing it out like you did would make a richer or leaner mixture, but if it is the holder it's supposed to be all the way in.

Here's a link to a schematic for Webers:

http://www.lcengineering.com/pdf/3236DGV.pdf
Old 03-25-2013, 07:13 AM
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Man it's crazy cause when it is all the way tight I can't get it to run right to save my life but when I backed it out I mean just a hair it runs and idles like a champ nowso I'm really confused about it and I've been driving it for two days now with no problem. I just can't understand how or what this screw does but it sure did something if anyone else has any info let me know and if someone can tell me how to post pics with my mobile phone let me know
Old 03-25-2013, 08:35 AM
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You got a smartphone? If you do, and can upload pictures to a site like photobucket, then all you have to do is copy the "img" code into the reply box and it'll show up. I believe there's a tutorial somewhere around the site.

Is the screw you're talking about in this picture? the one just to the left and up from the power valve?
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Old 03-25-2013, 08:52 AM
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I'm not sure what the power valve is I'm not to great with carbs but it's right to the right and up from that hose going in the center of the pic
Old 03-25-2013, 02:19 PM
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http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/wi...1ae82.jpg.html
This is the screw I'm talking about if anyone can help me
Old 03-25-2013, 02:50 PM
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That is your jet holder and it should be tight. It wont hurt to take it out and look at your jet, clean it while your looking at it. I assume you found the screw that adjusts your carb? If I remember right a good place to start is about 2 turns out from bottomed out?
Old 03-25-2013, 06:56 PM
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Well like I said above I tried that and couldn't get it to run right but as soon as I just barely turned that screw back I mean just a hair it all of a sudden startled idling and running like a champ so Idk I'm just gonna leave it like it is and hope for the best, but yeah when it was tight I could get it dialed in to save my life but its good now I just wish I knew why backing that screw out solved my problem, maybe I just discovered something if you can't het it to run right just back that screw out a 16th of an inch lol
Old 03-26-2013, 11:16 AM
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Ok, the issue is that your idle jet being held by that screw might be the wrong size. Although, if opening it helps then it sounds like it's too large and more air helps it. I have a bit of a hard time believing that, though. I had to go richer(bigger) on my Weber cause it was too lean with the original jets.

Your first thing to do is double check for vacuum leaks. Especially around the adapter. Might sound backwards, but the fuel metering relies on airflow going through the air horn properly. If you have air entering somewhere else, it's going to pull the fuel in to the carb in a strange way, never really consistent.

Is the carb new, or used? Which adapter did you use? It may help you to find exploded diagrams of the carb so you know all the parts and search for "jetting" Weber DGEV's. Pay attention to some of the BMW 2002 guys advice, too. The jet numbers will probably be different, but they've got some good experience on tuning and tricks to make things easier.
Old 03-26-2013, 11:29 AM
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It's about two years old and just had it rebuilt and I have the spiral adapter from LC it just blows me awayaybe like you said just might be air that I'm gettin now that is making it run better you don't think it will hurt anything huh
Old 03-26-2013, 10:46 PM
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Leaving it loose like that? I sure wouldn't. You will get much smoother and efficient operation out of it if it's working properly. Once I got mine dialed in, I was able to use the rig easier at a wider range of elevations, too. Anywhere from 2,000' to 10,000' and it wouldn't stumble. Lost power higher up, sure, but most other carbs would've stumbled at such a wide range of elevations.

It's an old truck, think outside the box a little as far as where vacuum leaks could come from. Check the vacuum lines, double check all the unused ports got capped and the caps aren't cracked, maybe even pull the carb and check the flatness of the mounting flange.

I'd put my money on vacuum leak, that's the most common cause of the idle mixture screw adjustments not really making any difference.
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