9am4x4

its allways one thing or another..
just got my clean 22R with a weber DD, stock exhaust, all the periphs etc..
so i got the thing on my motor stand, pulled off the exhaust manifold to check how my headers fit..and right away i noticed that the moron i bought the long block from, snapped one of the studs off in the head! (way to go bro! )
anyway its about 1/4" inset on the head and i really dont wanna mess this thing up.
anyone know a certain special way that works to extract this beezie?
considering it all goes to hell, i have an extra 20R head thats sitting and ready for a swap, but i'd just rather get this 22R in my chassy and drive my feakin yota!

refried

center punch, left hand drill bits,and heat. the left hand bits may grab and pull it out, if not a good set of EZ Outs after drilling as much as possible. If you screw up use a Heli-Coil.

toyNG

You could very carefully weld a new bolt on top of it. Then just bolt it off.

refried

that would work, but it's broken INSIDE the head (btw, it works better if you just weld a nut on the broken stud)

zlathim

I don't know if 1/4" is enough to use this trick, but it might be. Take another short bolt of the same diameter and thread pitch and use your drill press or a bench vise and handheld drill to poke a hole that is perfectly centered all the way from the bolt head to the tip of the bolt. Then thread it into the hole and you now have an alignment tool to keep the drill bit perfectly centered. Of course, if the guide bolt is threaded into the hole, a lh drill will be pointless, but it will keep the drill going stright into the center of the broken stud. After that, a little heat followed by a screw extractor should do the trick. I've used the trick on a few occasions and it worked well every time.

toyNG

oops. didn't read that it was inside.

and yes you're right, a nut would work much better than a bold.

I guess today's just not a good one for me

akaphilly

there is this new stuff call loctite Freeze and Release. i would use the regular extractors with the freeze and release

9am4x4

i like the idea about centering the drill, that might save my threads..i just dont want to snap a bit off inside the allready snapped stud..that would def be ghey..

9am4x4

so of course after i drill out the perfect hole, my buddy whos a supposed "expert", snaps off the extractor in the drilled exhaust stud..so i figure i'm pretty much screwed..machine shop time right?

9am4x4

nevermind, got the broke pieces out. still have to get to a shop to drill out the old stud and helicoil in new threads.
would it be worth it to put in all new exhaust mani. studs?

DYNNOMMYTE

get a stud extractor to remove the remaining studs, clean them up and put antiseize on them before reinstalling them...

9am4x4

helicoil is a beautiful thing
brand new ARP 10x125mm studs..strong as hell

Scooby098

what size bit did you use to drill out for the helicoil I know its probly on the box for it but I wanna see if I got one laying around, where did you get ur studs if you care to tell.

9am4x4

not sure exactly what size it was, but the helicoil/stud is a 10x125mm so i'd imagine a hair shy of that..picked up the new studs at Winchester Auto in Santa Cruz CA, pretty sure ARP has a catalog with them available.
definitley good call on the anti-seize bny DYNNOMMYTE

Scooby098

so how hard would you say it was I watched a video on youtube about it. did you do it with ur engine still in?

9am4x4

its definitley worth taking your time with it.
i had the opportunity to do it with my motor out, which i'm sure was a lot easier, hah.
just make sure you put the helicoil in straight and level.
its also worth it (i think) to clean and retap all the other holes, then replace them with ALL NEW studs. then torqued to 28-34 ft lbs for both studs and nuts.