3" Rough County Lift on 1983 Pickup
#41
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
I got the rear lift of the truck on. Sits like a dragster lol:
RearLift.jpg?t=1332382536
Here are the new hangers for the rear:
NewHangers.jpg?t=1332382636
This is the new shocks and you can see the leafs a little:
Shocks.jpg?t=1332382636
Plan on starting the front tomorrow. Also I wasn't sure how much to tighten the bolts on the hangers and for the pin/bolt on the front of the springs. I just tighten them till I couldn't anymore lol. But I did tighten the U-bolts to 87 lbs
RearLift.jpg?t=1332382536
Here are the new hangers for the rear:
NewHangers.jpg?t=1332382636
This is the new shocks and you can see the leafs a little:
Shocks.jpg?t=1332382636
Plan on starting the front tomorrow. Also I wasn't sure how much to tighten the bolts on the hangers and for the pin/bolt on the front of the springs. I just tighten them till I couldn't anymore lol. But I did tighten the U-bolts to 87 lbs
#42
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Got the rest of my lift on!
IMAG0157.jpg?t=1332606346
However the lift kit came with these little flimsy L-brackets but I have no idea what they are for. Ideas?
IMAG0158.jpg?t=1332606341
IMAG0157.jpg?t=1332606346
However the lift kit came with these little flimsy L-brackets but I have no idea what they are for. Ideas?
IMAG0158.jpg?t=1332606341
#44
Registered User
Don't know what those are for but looking at the pic of the rear lift looks like you don't have any sort of extender on the rear brake proportioning valve (the arm that comes down from the pass side frame rail to the rear axle). Without it you have little to no pressure going to the rear brakes. Not good. Just a heads up in case that kit didn't come with anything to adjust for that.
#46
Bingle, the arm that you are talking about is the bed load sensor. It's like a brake booster for when you have a heavier load in the bed. You don't necessarily "Need" it if you don't haul a lot. I took mine off already since the rubber boot that goes over the connection into the brake line is a cesspool for rust.
#47
Registered User
kawa, I could argue with you about calling the valve that lowers psi to the rear brakes when the bed is unloaded and opens up with more weight a "booster" but that would be silly. My point was that with 3" more in the springs the valve is close to closed if not completely. Closed valve = NO rear brakes. Not good, I know from personal experience. Also wide open is bad, unless you like locking up the rears every time you touch the brakes. Was just pointing this out to be helpful.
I have mine disconected as well, but I chopped the arm to about 6" and ran it through a home spun bracket that holds it in the position that it was in with the stuff I normally carry. I agree that it's a piece of junk but I like to have my brakes functioning at least close to properly.
Again, not trying to be a dick, just throwing out my 2 cents.
I have mine disconected as well, but I chopped the arm to about 6" and ran it through a home spun bracket that holds it in the position that it was in with the stuff I normally carry. I agree that it's a piece of junk but I like to have my brakes functioning at least close to properly.
Again, not trying to be a dick, just throwing out my 2 cents.
#48
Damn, you're a dick! LOL just kidding! I agree with you too. I wasn't saying to just nix it by cutting it off because you are right, no rear brakes or locking rear brakes will result. I completely removed the valve since it is pretty much worthless if you don't carry a load; arguably worthless all together.
#49
I destroyed the pin on the passenger side trying to get it out, eventually started to grind it off, and when I was 90% through it was so hot from the grinding the pin started to back out and I was able to get it out with a small prybar (After hours of not budging with a larger one).
too bad I grind-ed the pin, but after learning from the passenger side I torched the bushings on the drivers side until they were smoking good, and then using a large crowbar as a pry bar, was able to slowly back the drivers side pin out without any damage!! was even able to resuse it. have a new one ordered for the passenger side temporarily I got a huge bolt from ace to do the job, but remember if you torch the bushings it will get hot enough to break the bond between the pin for a few minutes while you pry it out.
no torch = wouldn't budge no matter what.
torch the bushings = still difficult to remove but makes it possible to remove without damage.
too bad I grind-ed the pin, but after learning from the passenger side I torched the bushings on the drivers side until they were smoking good, and then using a large crowbar as a pry bar, was able to slowly back the drivers side pin out without any damage!! was even able to resuse it. have a new one ordered for the passenger side temporarily I got a huge bolt from ace to do the job, but remember if you torch the bushings it will get hot enough to break the bond between the pin for a few minutes while you pry it out.
no torch = wouldn't budge no matter what.
torch the bushings = still difficult to remove but makes it possible to remove without damage.
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