sarajevo--

I have a 1982 toyota pickup that I just threw a cab onto from a 1980 that had a 20r motor. It is 2wd and has a carb. When i threw the multimeter on the battery I got 18 volts. Way too much! I just put the 20r regulator on the truck but i am still having no luck. I believe the wires are hooked correctly to the altenator, though I did have to use spade connectors (the 80 cab harness would not go to my altenator. So, I am wondering if I have a 55 amp altenator and if I need to get a 40 amp altenator to make this all work. Help?

suncomb1

It would not matter if you have a 55 or a 40 AMP alternator. Either your voltage regulator is not working, your wiring is wrong or your test meter is not working properly. You should read about 13.5-14 volts max. Check your test meter first, make sure it is zerod in, that you are on the right scale, and on DC volts. If you still get the 18 volts check your wiring first (use a factory service manual) and if you find the wiring is correct get another voltage regulator. Make sure the voltage regulator matches the alternator. Good luck-I am sure you will find the problem.

sarajevo--

ok, well my meter is good. It must be the wiring. The 82 cab I took off had a six wire volt regulator. But the 80 I put on only has 5 wires ( no large blue wire included). I will go mess with it again this afternoon. Since I could not hookup my 82 volt reg to the 80 cab, I bought a new volt reg for the 80. The harness for the 80 cab would also not mate with the altenator. So I had to use spade connectors to connect the harness to the altenator. Maybe I put the connections in the wrong spots.

sarajevo--

update: I tried switching leads to the alt. No luck. Tried splicing in a 6 wire volt reg. No luck. Any ideas?

suncomb1

There were two different regulators for Toyota trucks back then. One was called the Tirrill and the other was called the IC. The Tirrill was large and looked like most American car voltage regulators; the IC was small and was a solid state electronics type unit. Most units on 1982 trucks were IC type and the alternators were designed to work only with the IC type. So which type of voltage regulator do you have? Are you trying to use the 1980 alternator?

sarajevo--

Well, that sounds very informative. I am using a 1982 black plug altenator (40 amp?) and a 1980 20r regulator with five blades. Origionally I was using a 6 blade volt reg, but it would not hook up to the 1980 cab i put on my truck. I surely do not want to change the harness. So I will most likely just put a GM alternator on with an internal regulator. I'm done with all of this toyota bull˟˟˟˟˟. unless ya'll can help me find a cheap way to fix this. I am still getting 18 volts to battery with this setup. Cannot find a way to make it work.

suncomb1

Just go and purchase the right regulator (used or new) for the 82 alternator, splice it in and it should be fine. You really need a factory wiring diagram for the 80 and the 82 so you can do the wiring right without getting frustrated. If you want to go GM that is okay but you will still need a wiring diagram to tie it in properly. I run GM units on my Street Rods and Customs.

83Toyota88

iTrader: (1)

I am in the process of wiring in my GM cs-144 alt into my 83 and I'm having to remove my voltage regulator and I believe I have figured exactly what connections I need for the new alt by using my FSM. As you know the GM alt has a 4-wire harness and we don't need the stator wire. The other three are ignition, charge, and sense. For the ignition I am using the red wire leaving the voltage regulator, for the sense is the white with the black stripe from the original alt harness, and for the charge light I can use the yellow wire from either the old alt harness or the voltage regulator since they both tie into the charge light circuit. I found a lot of info for doing this on 84+ second gen trucks but not really anything on 1st gens. If you decide to a GM swap maybe this will help.

sarajevo--

Well, installation is complete and everything appears to be working well except for the charge light. What can i do to keep that damn thing from going on? Currently I am getting about 14.75 volts to my battery with the the CS120 alt I put in. I got the lifetime one and paid 130 w/ core fee. I am so happy, just need to fix that charge light.

stkybgr

Was wondering if you have any luck figuring out your voltage regulator issue, or have just decided to go with a GM alt?

83Toyota88

iTrader: (1)

I am having the same issue with my cs144. I know I have the charge wire hooked to the charge circuit. Still trouble shooting it though. Supposidly there is a relay under the passanger side of the dash the you can remove to get the light to go out.

sarajevo--

Yes, I changed it to a GM. There was no way to splice in the 6 wire volt reg into that cab. Plus I had no wiring diagrams that would show the 5 wire volt reg anyway. So, I just gave up. F*(& the Toyota alternator systems! I went from 40 amps to 105!!!!!!!!!!!!!! My headlights are much brighter!

As for the light, I know some people have bypassed theirs, I think they hooked up the lamp light to the ignition switch.................................Not sure though...............

83Toyota88

iTrader: (1)

I think my cs 144 alt I got from the scrap yard might be bad. I charged my battery last night and its at 13.6V and when I start my truck it drops to 12.3V.

sarajevo--

say goodbye to external volt regs!

sarajevo--

If you spent around 25$ or so, you should just got get a new cs120 with a lifetime warranty and put that in. The will be about 95$ without core (you bring the junker in).

83Toyota88

iTrader: (1)

Did you buy a seperate pulley for your alt or did you find one with single groove?

sarajevo--

No, from the 40 amp 1982 alt, I just transferred the pulley to the Cs120. And it fits and works well. Do i need to show a picture?

83Toyota88

iTrader: (1)

No I bought a pulley and put on mime I was just curious.

83Toyota88

iTrader: (1)

Now my truck is constantly at a high idle, charge and brake light are on, alt doesn't appear to be charging...This GM swap has been a PITA. No idea whats wrong now lol.

sarajevo--

Defective Alt? Mine is running fine. I think you should go buy a new one.